† CETFLY †

Hey As a few of you know ive finally gotten hold of my new Inspired. It came with Echo Urbans, but they always looked completely warped from welding, or simply bent for whatever reason. The wheel never felt like it lined up and also the handlebars always felt "off" but were perfectly lined up with the marks. Feels weird when riding and its pulling the wheel off to the left as it feels the left leg is slightly longer which makes sense. When I do the QR up, it pulls the left leg over a fair way to meet the stationary right leg. It should, if anything, be pulling both legs evenly together toward the hub. Sure, one will pull slightly more than the other but the right leg stays dead still. So, I possibly need new/diff forks. What would everyone recommend thats nice and stiff, but suits the look of the Inspireds? Straight forks suit the Inspireds a bit more than curved I think. Maybe someones got a set of Fat boys for sale? Wes

Yehaa, got my wheels back. Was there when he built them. Built them with him too. Far OUT. SO much more than I couldve thought goes into a proper wheel build. Hes brilliant. Was great to actually be there watching what he does and how he does it...plus having a hand in the build also. He professionally built all three of my wheels. One of which im going to sell. He spent ages getting it so exactly right. I'll be getting each and every wheel build done by him from this point on. I cant rave about him highly enough. Pics coming in a few minutes and I'll be able to have a bit of a ride tomorrow afternoon hopefully!

Wish I was back in London now that ive got my Inspired Shame Rago, dont do it brother it will just make it worse and you'll be longer in healing and can do permanent damage. Look into what you've done. Do some research first, but you've been warned! My sister has her degree in Sport Science/Human Movement so she knows sports injuries very well I need to send the boys their pics I took on the London ride I went on too. It was from ages ago now but still some great action pics

I agree. They could also be saying "theyre crap" due to a fault theyre unware of and not really wanting to go to the nth degree to find the problem. Some people may just think *its doing this -insert problem- dont know why its happening, dont know how to fix it, i'll just sell it and get something i know works to replace it.* Not many people would think to check the body for a crack. Ive personally never heard of a body cracking, as have most people who've replied to this thread. I wouldnt have check it for cracks either. It was only when the specialist noticed it that it became apparent. Im saying that it could be this issue im having if other variables dont seem to be the cause of other hope mono trial owners' problems. For example, contamination as you've stated, can be from the fluid passing through the crack, past the seal and onto the pads. To the naked eye it may look like a seal problem. Or next step you'd think scoring of the piston, allowing fluid past the seal. Im not saying that any problem that people have is because of a crack. I never said that. Im simply trying to help people out here, as ive said time and time again, to make them aware of this problem ive found as it could be a possible cause. Thats all it is. Im not getting into a legalistic discussion over all this and/or over-analysing this issue. It is what it is. If youve got one and its not working as you'd hope, want or how it used to when new, then after checking all the simple, easy to remedy methods, check for cracking. You may have the same problem.

Scotty (Bender) - wanna throw your 2pence in on this question for us mate? Also, if people are so happy with them we wouldnt be hearing people saying theyre "crap" which ive read in other threads. Just because people havent gone back through Tarty's doesnt mean problems havent happened. Im in no way having a big negative hype on hope here as its starting to feel people are having a shot at me here now. I wouldnt have just gone and kitted my (basically) entire build with Hope if I thought for a second they were crap would i. Im merely going off what a few people have said, like Bender as one example as he's a mate of mine, what ive read in previous threads from their personal opinions and experiences and from what the specialist has mentioned about the leverage points/design of this body. Im sure its not a constant build issue. I agree with whats been said by Luke and Adam@Tarty. If there had been significant damage to the outer housing it could be put down to misuse, but its in perfect condition. Thus rendering it a manufacturers fault. Due to how fine the crack is (cant see it easily from the outside, but can internally when the bore cap side piston seal is removed) maybe some people who've been unhappy with this particular brake have also had no idea why it was giving them grief and they've simply on-sold it to someone else. Im hoping to make people aware that if this is the case, they may have the same issue ive discovered. Im hoping to get a replacement from hope and have a drama-free future, riding with hope kit on my Inspired. Hope thats cleared things up a bit

Yeah, totally agree with you Luke. Im def dealing with it with the help of James, and of course, moving on forward The reason for starting this thread, as mentioned, was to show where this one has failed and maybe offer some help to people who've had theres fail in the past which Ive heard a fair few cases off, who've not known why they'd failed. It also shows where to check for failure if you've just bought a second hand one like I did or are the owner of one currently, that it losing power since you'd initially purchased. Yeah Max, hoping they come through with a free body replacement. Would be great if they did and I hope it helps them in the manufacturing side of things

Engineer without the bit of paper He does testing into where carbon fibre breaks on bikes for court cases using special resin and UV light with macro zoom camera etc etc. He repairs carbon fibre frames and thats his field speciality. He does many reports for serious court cases in terms of analysing peoples bikes in accidents hit by cars. One kid was left a vegetable, the other woman riding her carbon frame bike was left a paraplegic. He analyses steel bikes, alloy, carbon, the works. He showed me a few cases he was working on, it gets extremely technical. He has to work out the speed, direction, impact force and angle etc all variables from the evidence of whats left of a bike. He tests stress fractures, breaks, the lot. If in court the other legal team go to question his credentials, his own engineers (from the other company he's working with) back him up as they also test his evidence. Trust me, he's far more than a regular bike mechanic. He has extensive physics and chemistry backgrounds. Has designed his own resin which theyre testing as a new form of shock absorber for the car industry, developed his own (INSANELY BRIGHT) LED light to replace normal lights, but at 1/3 the amperage consumption and having a thickness of only 7mm (seen it myself) etc. Hes a very smart guy. Really interesting to chat to actually. A lot to learn from a person like him.

Be honest....you just want video of me eating handlebar dont you I'll be sure to have the training wheels edited out of the video Still learning to ride it and do any form of trials stuff, but it just feels so SO much easier on this Inspired than on the Woodstock. Feels far lighter and more nimble, so looking forward to getting quickly used to the bike. Cant wait!

Yeah boys, they may well be but I dont think theyre the best thing I can put on my bike They look terrible! Theyre very powerful, sure, but they dont have much modulation at all. I need modulation big time. These are perfect brakes, however, for trials as opposed to street I think. At the moment Im hoping to get my wheels back tomorrow. At least I'll have an ugly, but working and reliable front brake on there which will stop my face eating handlebar or bitumen

Hey mate I wouldnt have either but this is what the specialist said. If anything, theres no need for that part of the body to be machined away. It should be left a bit thicker and with a smoother surface. Its the fact that its a sharp "corner" (in a way) taking the load whereas a smooth sweeping radius will be much stronger. James is going through Hope to see what he can do to help me out. Top bloke. Cant recommend him high enough as a seller and nice guy, even before this happened Thanks James

Hahaha nah mate, not angry at you or anything. Just annoyed at the situation im in. You couldnt have possibly known. It was only when rebuilding it with new seals that the specialist noticed it and took some super macro shots of it to show it. By no way are you a dodgy seller mate, not at all. You were great with getting this to me and I appreciate all the help with the current situation. This thread was more of an info page for people who've had issues with their own Hope Mono's or bad experiences as it shows the design flaws with Hopes body and explains why they may have had problems. With this type of crack they can lose power significantly, bleed out past the piston seal and potentially onto the pads, again, reducing power greatly. Got some more pics here to make it clearer to everyone exactly where they crack. This kind of thing shouldnt happen. Hope need reinforcing at this point. The curves need to be much smoother rather than sharp (where the cnc machine has been) Wes

If anyone has had problems with their hope mono trial suddenly failing I'd like to know because this is probably the reason why. Here are some pics of where its cracked. Its cracked, from the inside where it loads-up under braking (on the casing), all the way through to the inside of the outer piston seal (bore cap piston seal). Ive just had a specialist in crack repairs for carbon bike frames etc help me rebuild it and he saw it and took some pics of it with his mega macro camera. The other crack he noticed was the bleed screw. Its been overtightened and cracked the casing. Its meant to be 7075 alloy, but dont go over tightening them like this has been!! This is very heart breaking as its completely useless to me now after buying it, and then the full rebuild kit, plus red anodized bore cap, resevoir cap, dot fluid etc. Its all come up to a LOT of money and also when Ive purchased all the parts from tarys too. I need to know if James Quigley (who sold me the brake, but wouldnt have known about the crack) was the first owner and if he's able to contact hope to see if they have had this happen before and if they'll give you a replacement body under some form of warranty. This whole build has been much the same with things going wrong with getting the bike with heaps of extra costs that werent allowed for, hub problems requiring swapping, new rim and spokes needed, the list goes on. This is another financial kick in the balls The crack goes from the outside mounting bolt to the inside of the piston seal, thus rendering it useless to me. Im wondering if this is a total design flaw and if anyone else has had this problem Wes

Hahaha yeah, they'd HAVE to be! Thats where theyre from but anyone whos had them or used them say theyre absolutely brilliant, and very powerful (which they certainly are!) Im going to sell them though as I wont need them. Thanks for the red lever input. Are they as crap as the stock maggie TPA though? Mine skipped threads on the Woodstock when I pulled on the lever too hard. I dont want that crap happening again. Thats why the current lever wouldve been put on im guessing, so it stops that happening. I generally like my bikes black. My full suspension Marin is matt black, the onza woodstock was the same and now this Inspired is, but if I had it my way, i wouldve left the headset and seat clamp as pink and just bought a replacement rear wheel (with black hub) complete and just be done with the bike. Its purely down to the hubs being red that ive gone all out like this. It will look good in the end though, and if people dont like it oh well, i will Im thinking bout getting the wheel builder to rebuild the original rear wheel I had on there seeing as i didnt use the rim or hub and he can order spokes and build it for me. Would anyone be keen on buying it? Really need to know bout those TPA maggie levers though....

Cheers. Not going black cranks. I really dont like black cranks on my bikes so will be leaving them as-is or was thinking of polishing them on the buffing wheel so they look like chrome. Too much black otherwise. I like things to be broken up a bit. Should be getting some of my parts tomorrow I think, if not thursday, including the wheels so it should be rideable by friday im guessing. Really need to finish rebuilding these Hope Mono Trial brakes. Cant get the bleed screw-side piston out though. Think a burst of compressed air will help it along so I can put the seal kit through it Will keep putting pics of the changes as I go. Should all be 90%complete by this weekend provided all the parts arrive on time

Ah well, cant please everyone with what I like, but i think the black and red will look mad and the silver of the cranks is default so I'll match that with a few other parts which are the brakes and spokes. Its like clothes, any more than 3 colours looks like a rainbow/crap and any less than 2 is boring 3 is perfect. (well...thats my personal opinion anyway!) These colours will look sharp and smart. They wont be overbearing or loud, but very refined. Was possibly thinking of getting the Inspired seat and just bolting it to the existing carbon seat post Ti rotor bolts? lol not unless Ti rusts Nah, theyre cheap crappy ones that are more than stuffed unfortunately. Need to use some others i have here ready to go in. Mmmm wasnt sure bout the 1/2 link chain. Ive got a brand spanker one to replace it if needed. Yeah, would prefer a Rholoff also. waiting to hear back from one of the boys about that.

Whats an RB? Are there any problems with the TR brakes themselves? The colour of them would look great on the bars and the slaves cylinders being silver. Putting braided lines on it would set it off And make them fail proof. I could go with the Magura lever in red which ive just found on Tarty's. Didnt realise they made them. Is this the same problematic TPA system on the stock Maggie lever? The ones that always stuff up and the threads skip? http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...;category_id=53 Cheers mate On the extremely short test ride I had before I pulled the wheels apart for rebuilding, it felt incredibly agile. Felt so good with those bars! "BLK/MRKT Incorporated" So it reads "Black Market Incorporated" The "R" is a pistol in the graphics. Sweet bars. I wont be changing those. I love them! http://www.blackmarketbikes.com/products.p...&item=parts

Haha you two are classic Each saying dead opposite Im very specific with my builds, hence the long post Me being specific goes with anything im building, bikes, cars, anything. I like it to look one of a kind and all mine. LOL bust out the reading glasses Me too right now because its 4:10am here in Aus and im shattered. Eyes are failing me . Cant wait to get these parts to see how the combos will go. Just need to know whether to order the rear brake or not. Im leaning towards it. I'd prefer not to have any Deng kit on it but it already has the Echo forks and rear brake clamps and the red anodized complete brake setup is only available in Echo. Shame. Oh well. The rest is all top-end gear and costin a small fortune.

And here is that link For all those interested (and interested in leaving your opinion on how my Inspired should look very soon) check out this link and tell me what you think Thanks http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....=0#entry2007822 Wes

For all those interested (and interested in leaving your opinion on how my Inspired should look very soon) check out this link and tell me what you think Thanks http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....=0#entry2007822 Wes

Heres the pic I went from when I was buying it: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2435/392939...3a50e0cbc_b.jpg Heres what it looks like now that its mine It was a bit of a weird-weather day here in Aus so the colours didnt come out as vividly as the original photo The colour scheme im going for is black (frame), red anodized parts, and silver (cranks, brakes, master cylinder, spokes) Im thinking of changing are the Salmon pink Chris King headset, because it wont go with all the Hope anodized red parts im changing Ive ordered a brand new red Hope headset so will have to wait till all my other parts are on the bike to see if I like it or not. I spoke to Cameron, at Chris King in Portland, Oregon, USA recently. I told him my Chris King headset looks salmon-pink, but with the hubs being red, i'd like a red replacement cap-set. He said that he'd actually hang onto it. If not I'd be easily able to sell it for the same, but most likely more than the price of a new one in the anodized red with white writing that I was chasing. He said this is due to this colour being a limited edition through Chris King where they were donating a part of this particular series' sales, named "Pretty And Strong" to the Womens Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Mine is stamped with the year that it was produced. This in itself has increased its price greatly he said due to it being a limited production run, a limited colour which isnt repeated anymore (more of a salmon-pink colour, where they now do bright pink) and that mine has "Pretty And Strong 2008" stamped on the top cap. The other reason its highly sort after and valuable is because, as Cameron was telling me, they dont stamp them with the year anymore. The one I have is the very last printed series made this way. It has far more meaning to me now, and in general, than I couldve thought. Pretty special headset. If I really want to sell it to match the colour scheme i've chosen then at least I can without any problems at all when the red hope headset comes. Will just have to see when the entire bike is near finished. Ive taken the black hope hubs out and theyre currently getting swapped over with the near new matching pair of red Hope Pro 2 trials hub and Pro 2 front, laced on SS spokes and brand new rear black Rhyno Lite rim. I had to go brand new because the only hub set I could get had 36h rear and my rims were both 32h. The wheel builder said its not even worth stuffing around and wasting all the time to make a setup like that work, when its still not going to be very strong in the end. Best to bite the bullet and buy a new rim and spokes. Things I am definitely changing are the pink seat clamp, for a new Hope red anodized seat clamp and black bar-ends with Hope red anodized bar ends. Im waiting for tarty's to get stock in of Echo SL red brake lever or may just buy the entire Echo TR and change the lines to braided. Purely for pimpin really . The brakes ive got currently are near new anyway. Pads arent even worn in . Either I stick with the Maggie and just swap the lever over from the Echo CNC one on there now to a red one and leave all other aspects of the current rear Maggie in black... or I go with the Echo TR full brake (single) and have silver slave cylnders (which will match the front Hope Mono Trial brake ive got waiting to swap over which has silver cylinders) and the red anodized body of the echo TR will match the rest of the colour scheme. Was thinking about turning the black section of the brake lever assembly (where it bolts to the black handlebars) silver instead of black though so it keeps with the theme Would be nice if the rear brake setup matched the front. The front Hope mono Ive pimped that out with red resevoir cap, red bore plug and hope anodized red front quick release lever. Its ultra pimped with a Hope carbon fibre brake lever. I'll be running a 200mm disc. Ive put the rear hub spacers under the buffer and they look like chrome now instead of flat alloy colour. Will look good in the end hopefully! What do you boys think bout this build? Namely the rear brake swap for Echo TR red with braided lines? Look forward to hearing comments and thoughts Cheers Wes

Well....its finally mine Will start my own thread with progress pics. Step by step Will post the link very soon

Hey mate, im just covering bases here but can you please check your inbox on here and at Tarty's on a current order I need to have stuff added to and NOT sent out tomorrow morning as it wouldve been originally.... Ta Wes

Ok boys With regards to the hub and lubing it, I got talking the other day to the guy who's building my wheels and he knew this hub exactly and had THE best silicone-based lubricant for just such an item. He said its very expensive the stuff he had so I asked if he could give each of the pawls an application of it. I cleaned out the hub off all the grease and he applied the stuff to the pivot point of where the pawls sit. He said not to lube the pawl itself and/or where it makes contact with the teeth. He said the only bit that needs lubrication is the section ive mentioned previously. You should hear it now. Sounds absolutely amazing! So loud, so tough! LOVE it! Scotty- you know how you said the anodizing was pink? Damn it yes, you were right. BUT, theres a reason for it especially for the headset. Ive just got off the phone to the Cameron, at Chris King in Portland, Oregon, USA. Ive been emailing him saying that mine looks pink, but with the hubs being red, i'd like a red replacement cap-set. So I called him. He said that he'd actually hang onto it. If not I'd be easily able to sell it for the same, but most likely more than the price of a new one in the anodized red with white writing that I was chasing. This is due to this colour being a limited edition through Chris King where the were donating a part of this particular series' sales, named "Pretty And Strong" to Womens Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Mine is stamped with the year that it was produced. This in itself has increased its price greatly he said due to it being such a limited run by them, a limited colour which isnt repeated anymore (more of a salmon-pink colour, where they now do bright pink) and that mine has "Pretty And Strong 2008". The other reason its highly sort after and valuable is because, as Cameron was telling me, they dont stamp them with the year anymore. The one I have is the very last printed with this on it I think i'll keep it now! It has far more meaning to me now, and in general, than I couldve thought. Pretty special headset. If I really want to sell it to match the colour scheme i've chosen then at least I can without any problems at all.

Yeah, I agree completely. Going through the grades of sanding will remove any damage and the top layer. Just very time consuming. Mine are fairly new looking and wouldnt take overly long to do on a buffer and all i have to do i apply pressure and apply the block of polish occasionally to the spinning wheel Not sure if I'll do it or not yet though. Will see. I will try to put up some pics tomorrow of the bike in its current state. Dropped the rims off to a rim builder.....damn.....am i GLAD im getting him to build these rims! Far out he KNOWS his stuff! Been building rims for 30+years. I completely cocked up the front rim which *seemed* easy enough but he's going to do a stronger form of lacing and also better for the rear. He said the rear Pro 2Trials hubs are VERY well designed, very well balanced and very strong. He said pretty much the opposite for the front Hope Pro 2 hub He said it was totally out of balance (with the center point being offset too much when the hub couldve and shouldve been designed with more thought). He says it should have been extended out further on the non disc side to allow the hub to be more central within the rim and not having the disc side taking the majority of the loading. He's ordering in a 36h rim for the 36h Trials hub. Should be there and all finished within a week Damn it, another 7days plus i think its going to be raining this time next week...

Mate, they look fantastic! Thats about the quality Id get mine to on the buffer Yours look amazing with how youve done them. You mustve spent many MANY hours doing all that