scotty007

looked at it again after your post and a coffee to calm my nerves. Both faces seam fine no harsh marks, pits or scratches, so it was out with the grease this time, and all seams fine this time. lever feals solid and comes near to the bar when pulled with no visable leaks. Just an idea would putting a cable tie around the lever and bars in full lock show up anything. ie: leaks or traped air . And thanks for the feedback lads, as always its quick and direct.

Well iv tryed again and again. Taken the caliper body apart cleaned the inside looked at the O ring and there is no split or holes present all refitted fresh bleed which is good, untill you pull the lever. Its still got a tiny tiny leak hardley noticeable really but its there. Im stuck for ideas now and thinking of trying to put some sort of sealent around the edge of the caliper to get a more perment seal any thoughts on this or sorting this pain in the arse will go a long way

Was thinking the same thing lukas. But also going to check the O ring as suggested but cant see it myself as i was super carefull when replacing it but you never know its worth ago .

Yer all the seal were replaced when stripped down all the nuts are done up super tight to make sure. This has me stumped and in need of a fix asap .

Hi just serviced my Hope mini 3 caliper and noticed a small leak coming from the caliper body itself .Iv taken it apart twice now to check everything is as it should be and it is, but the little bugger keeps leaking at the same spot . The bleed is perfect untill a couple of lever pulls and goes all spongy. I just wanetd to know if there is a fix for this such a sealent that can close the gap much like a seal on car engine cover . The diagrm shows where the leak is coming from thanks people

This has to be the worst case of validation "Crash and Burns" iv seen to date in NMC.

Ahhhhhhh WTF Am i missing something here or is my laptop still in the stone ages and dosent work properley cause all i can see is a lot of sqigle and arrows so where do you get "Good Post " from im not sure. If i was you id listen to the advice given by the other members on page 1. +1 for effort on the post but just dont get it sorry mate .

Itching to get and ride with you boys but waiting on my frame from norway a few other bits a pieces and il be up for it . keep us posted !!

I run the hope mini on a set of echo sl with a 203mm rotor so yes would be the answer in my opinon.

Glad someone asked this question as im now also about to bleed both my hope brakes with dot 4. Ive tryed so mant times to get a half decent bleed when first filling the reservior and opening and closing the bleed nipple, but this always leaves my brakes fealing spongy. So like you i was thinking of bleeding from bottom upwards. Also would running maggie slaves off a hope mini lever work, I think iv seen this posted somewhere on the forum before but i would like confermation really .Would be useing same bleed tecnique as stated above for both brakes.

As boys we all get caught with it in our hands at some point but no mate i wasnt. I was just giving the lad some positive feed back regarding getting off his arse and giving something a go, may not turn out to well by the looks of things but Hey ! we all start somewhere and with time things can only progress

Well done for giving it a go man ! Its nice to see someone who"s willing to give it a go instead of sitting around with there cock in there hand. One thing though im glad your going to be the test dummy for the frame and not others + 1000 for effort.

In my opinion and it is only that. I would say £150 -£300 depending on spec and condition.

Made an order on tues with Adam and was here on wednesday so tarty are back up to full speed after xmas

Got some rimjam material from a freind and was thinking of making my own pads for the lgm backings. This stuff is so hard to cut 100% true i could never actualy do it properley.Any good ideas on how to cut this stuff would be good. Iv tryed: Hot knifes, razor blades, hacsaws, and now iv come unstuck, so the pad material is gatthering dust. Ideas welcome .

Asked this question the other day but about echo cnc , but might be some helpfull feed back i there for you on the tr lever to mull over sorry forgot LINKY http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=146135

I think there all the same size for the ffw but dont take that as gospal but 99% sure

Yer just undo the freewheel and re position the bash ring so it covers the bottom of the freewheel with the left pedal facing forwards this should do the trick !

yep just bleed your brake with water or water/antifreeze is best in this weather all good !

Come on fella did you read the topic or just post at the end . Replaces your oil bleed brake with water = Better brake responce and feal.

Yer mate why not just get it from the road side. Its free and does the job !

Some good replys there to get me thinking about the sl but at nearly 80 quid a pop (and i need two) might be out of range. Especialy when i have to explain to the missus why she cant go out news years, you know how it is fellas. I think its going to be the echo TR levers if tary dont th echo cnc that is, was thinking of the echo cnc only cause they look more compact and reliable and more PIMP

Well i think that covers everthing i need to know about paypal . Such a good post thanks for taking the time to help me out. If there are any pre members reading this post this is how to get validated fast as . Paypal now up and runnin sweeeeeet

Was thinking echo cnc if sold seperately but the TR complete lever was my second chioce . Hearing the posts regarding these i might stick with them just cant be dealing with fresh bleeds every week . Guess il get on to tarty and see if they do the echo cnc on its own first. Anybody got the TR fitted and working with good reviews might sway me though !

Well if that is the only problem with these brakes might look into a bit further. Just one thing they look as if there quite big and bulky for a brake or is the picture on tartys site exploded or zoomed . Just tryin to get a better picture of what they look like on the bike thats all