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scotty007

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Everything posted by scotty007

  1. I agree 18t up front is the way to go.. I run 18 / 15 on stock so should be ok ..
  2. I would if i were you mate will save a lot off stress . Revolver doesnt say much but his words are like gold ..... SOLID... lol
  3. I think if it was me i would check my lines for leaks also the fittings too. Then call tarty for a syringe as they cost pence to buy and will save you a brain hemrage over the stress and then pump 3 or 4 syringe fulls of oil / fluid which ever through the lines and take it from there . Iv never trusted the bath bleed method ..... Sorry revolver but still good work . Give this a go luke and see where you stand after this is done mate
  4. Like i said syringe bleed it any diy shop sell them, as do the mighty tarty order today up and running tomorow if not re try the bath bleed method cant see it having the same out come on your lever body . just take your time on the bath bleed method if you choice to do it good luck !!!
  5. Id say try bleeding it by the syringe method if you cant get on with the bath bleed . I always use the syringe method for my bleeds even though bath bleed is simpler to do . just make sure you have the bleed nipple on the lever at the highest point . If any help i bleed from slave cylinders up to the lever it normally takes me 2 or 3 syringe fulls to get a good bleed.
  6. You shouldnt have to but anything for this fix . Just remember to lube the inside of the cylinder and around the seal. I used a light oil something like hair cliper oil . defo not wd 40. As long as you take your time and remember what goes where you will be fine. Plus you have the option of asking for help on the forum if it goes pete tong. Good luck matey !!!!!
  7. Not buy the sounds of it you didnt but trust me its not that hard to do belive in yourself it sounds harder than it looks so go for it , its only 2 things that you have to take off . it will probaly fix your problem too. just take your time lay the parts out on a table as you take it apart and hey presto. its the only way you will learn how to fix problems . Its called trial and error .
  8. Said like a true pro + 1
  9. i wouldnt say its fecked buy no means so chilll. undo the screw the hold the lever blade on and remove. then undo the grub screw that ajusts the reach of the blade . The tpa system should then unatach from the body its self theres no need to remove the TPA from the actuall blade so leave this on . Inside the lever body you should see the piston gentley try and pull this out the piston spring is located behind this take this out to clean inside the of the body . Check that your seals are fine and all claen then run a little oil around the piston seal to lube up and then refit it . Remember the piston spring first and then the piston itself reattach the TPA and screw the grub screw back into the brass barrel and refit the lever blade srew . give it a couple of pulls to see if it has freed up then rebleed the brake . If you get major stuck you might find a maggie blade diagram on goolge
  10. maybe it is the piston and seals inside the lever body try srtipping it out and giving it a good clean up run a little oil around the piston and seal and re bleed it bleed with 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze .
  11. Try and losen the bolt off that holds the lever blade on just enough so the blade dosent woble around . Cant see it being the piston and seal that sits inside the lever body mine went stiff like yours and with a bit of wd 40 it came unstuck now works perfect
  12. maybe one day within the next century il be able to get my bike up and running so i too can meet up with the riders from east cost happy trialing boys !!!!!!!
  13. Sounds like you have air traped within the system id try a fresh bleed then go from there ....
  14. Try theses links from the forum when stripping paint !! http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=147337 and then this might help with the paint you need to use http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=147522 . Happy days !
  15. Saying that i did used to run odi lock on grips and they performed really well untill they got a little old and they turned like putty and got all sticky and gunky. So if i had to vote it would be lock ons all the way . Plus they look pimp
  16. Cant vote for either of them as havent tryed none of them so my vote goes like this : Trialtech foam .. Sorry dude
  17. Im on here cause i am and have no frame to fit my wheels into aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
  18. Many of the forum features you cant use because you are not validated as a full member . Once you are validated into full members you will be able to use all that the forum has to offer !
  19. NICE ! But thiking you might get stick for putting it up for sale on or in NMC .... Fingers crossed !!!
  20. Na not that way! Use the wire scouer pads you get from any five and dime shop like wilkos. You get 3 for 90p or sumit gay like that.
  21. Yer its the same thing but stronger than cheap shit !! THIS OH Burns the hell out of your skin so id recomend latex gloves !
  22. I used nitromourse laquer remover on my old school saracen mad, got it done in 1 day,came out spot on
  23. I once drilled out my halo combat rear wheel using a 20mm hole saw. I didnt bother de builing the rim as such all i did was got my rim which was is a double skined rim took the tyre and inertube off marked out the centre of the rim( 44mm divided by two ) gave me 22mm to the center . Then i measuerd from the center of the spoke nipple to the center of the next spoke nipple and dot punched and tiny divit into the rim to mark it out . I then used a 5 mm drill bit to go through the rim as a pilot hole. using a 20mm hole saw i then drilled out the rim in between every spoke apart from where the valve sits and the join in the rim. Mine came out perfect with no weakness to the rim what so ever . Just make sure you get all the metal shavings out of the rim before fitting the tyre and tube as these will puncture the tyre every time you ride. IM guessing that you can drill out any rim as long as its double skined. Single wall rims wont be as strong to start with so i would advise against this . But good luck with it .
  24. Ha Ha you got busted. Sorry had to be said. Oh and see there is some perfectly good help right there for you. ( Would you like your other account disabled?)
  25. Like most people id say trialtech foam. Ive just brought my first pair and they feal amazing compared to every other grip iv had. Its 1000% trialtech foam
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