Martin Reynolds

Sounds like your pads/rim are getting contaminated, explaining why when you change your pads, they work for a while then go shit

The outer chain ring is like £30 alone. with that, and £15 for the middle and the price of a bottom bracket, works out the same/slightly dearer than buying a new crank set. And i know the Truvativ is a decent bb.

Im looking to re-vamp my Cannondale Jekyll ready for the summer. Two questions really: 1. Anyone know of any decent power coaters in cornwall? The person before me raw'd the frame, but i'd like to give it some colour I'd be happy to post outside of cornwall if needs be. 2. Its got shimano deore cranks with a hollowtech bb, and the bb bearings are rough as and the chain rings are worn to death. I have a Truvativ Giga Pipe BB i wanna fit, and wondering whats a decent 2 ring isis crank set to go for? Something like this? Octane One Cheers

Mangina* its what TF does to people

Really? Your not funny... your pathetic....

Personally i'd cut off the far outside ones, they get the less use. I guess it depends if you ride street or natural. You use alot more of the tire riding natural due to the surfaces you ride on.

Seems? Are you retarded? On a more serious note, i have the try all hub infront of me, and i think what tarty are referring to is that the disk mount is spaced out quite far out on the hub, so the disk would run very close to the frame. Apart from that, the hub fits in a 116mm frame fine.

unless you lace the wheel up badly, they'll be fine. I've done plenty of up/gap to fronts and its never shown signs of damage

Radial spokes are fine on the front, you dont need much strength. id personally go for the try-all/trialtech square/cirle hole. Strong rims that hold a grind well

Considering he's suggest two STOCK rims, he obviously wants a 26" front wheel

im running a echo sl non disk hub on a trialstech sport hole rim the wheel weighs 970grams (only due to some heavy spokes) but holds a grind well and still is strong

Grammer no fail?

Tarty dont have any in stock and i dont wanna spend silly amounts on a tool i might use a couple times a year. Will any 8 prong bb tool work? Like this? Chain Reaction Cheers

Really? i thought with tubeless, you've still got to use half an inner tube for the valve and to seal the nipples, with that and the weight of glue, sealer, ect, would overcome the weight of a normal inner tube?

Most pointless topic ever?

Second the 610. the plates are strong as, and the pins are pined over so strong they'll never come apart

Not echo, they're ZHI and come drilled

It's a modded echo (Team?) 4 bolt booster. Its had the webs cut out, which brings it to under 100grams, but still retains the strength through the I beam section.

Update : New Trialtech forks

Were a nightmare to fit, had to file down my axle and file true the brake mounts, but they're on there...

You're really not getting the point. If you need to put that much force through a brake system to stop yourself, your seriously doing something wrong. And considering the forces that hydraulics are designed to be used for, im sure an aluminium frame will snap soon before a hydraulic seal goes....

Brought them anyway Cheers for the advice, i'll update my photos when i receive them and get them fitted

Tempted to get a set as everyone seams to mention these are amazing as. Did i hear that a certain batch are snap happy? Or is that just peoples experiences of them? Thanks

Your Mum...

u been dropped on your head? with either set-up, you can apply enough braking force to break the frame.... but that wont achieve anything. Either set-up will provide enough braking force, as long as ITS SET UP PROPERLY! A well set up v brake will outperform a shitly set up maggie, and vice versa.