stephenmx50

check everything is greased... i think theres a high chance that bikes got a little wet going by that ramp...

i rode Motocross for around 8 Years had to give up because of money (buying a house, family etc..) then got into a little dirt jumping for a short while as i needed my "two wheel fix" then was looking to purchase a BMX to do a bit of street riding, saw the Danny mac Vid on youtube and decided to go for a 24" instead of the BMX, after riding that for a couple of months decided TGS style was more me so brought a 26". 9 Months on and still LOVING IT! just wish i started years ago....!!

you need to measure the outer shell width. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/product_guide_cranks_and_bottom_brackets/m16.html

The guy on the chainless trials bike is a million times better than me even without a chain! and the guy on the BMW, well thats just ridiculous!! OK just a crazy thought... what about chainless-brakeless are any moves possible...?

I Snapped my half link chain this weekend!! to be fair it has been on my bike for some time so has not done to bad (i should have changed it before now!) iv just brought a KMC Z610 HX, 3/32" i had one on my previous bike with no problems and they have a good reputaion.

I have used rockman greens on a smooth rim which are fairly good, now using heatsink yellows on a dead grind and they are much better (been told they are also ace on a smooth rim), and the wear rate is miles better than the rockman greens! as said above any pad on a smooth rim (without tar) in the rain = fail!

I have a ZOO Piranha which i had the exact same problems on, if its just rubbing a little then as said above file/grind away a small amount on the back of the crank arms. Check your clearance when you put a new set of padds in as if you have an old set in there when you replace the pads the cylinders will be even further out. With mine i had to buy a new set of cranks, check the offset of your cranks, i brought a set of the trialtech sport cranks from tarty as they have one of the largest offsets around 34mm. New Bottom bracket might work but if the cotrrect size one is in there at present i would go down the new cranks road.. Hope this helps...

+1

Well i have a rear HS33 with Evo 2 setup (modified) on my Zoot 24". Its not an easy setup at all, this is because the gap between the Vee posts is much wider than the Evo 2 adapter can take. I had to adapt mine (luckily i am an engineer by trade and have all the tools to hand) i had to cut the adapter in half and add an extra bridge to gain the wider width. It works well but was a pain in the arse even with all the tools and the workshop i had to hand. If i was you (as mentioned above) i would get a good Vee set up with a booster and some good pads, will save you so much hassle...

As your just starting out i very much doubt you will kill a rim, mine takes alot of abuse and is still perfect. I have had to true the wheel a number of times but this is an easy job and as mentioned above a spoke key is only £5 or so. Believe me, you wont be disapointed with the zoot

The zoot is really good, you will only hear good thing about them normaly (apart from the frame snap above... ) I have one myself brought new from ebay around £375.00 (i think i got lucky..) i have upgraded a few parts, the brakes i now have a disc on the front and HS33 on the rear (the V-brakes are very good im just a tart and wanted to upgrade) i have new Front Freewheel (echo SL) as i broke the original. Most people on here say upgrade bars and stem, i find them ok so have stuck with them. I would just purchase the bike and upgrade parts as and when you need them.. IMO My first purchases would be... Rear Brake booster (as there is alot of frame flex) New chain to hand (the original fell to bits on me and is like an elastic band) Hope this helps..

Im no expert on wheel grinds but i know some rims just don't hold a grind as well as others. Im sure other members can help you out more than i can. One tip for you, try to spell words correctly and not use "txting slang" you will get many more replys when you do im sure..

Yes the size (i.e 20" 24" or 26") is the wheel size. Size and weight does not matter realy, you could be 6ft + and still ride a 20" bike. if you come from riding mountain/road bikes you might be best suited to a 26" (also know as a "stock" bike) if you have ever rode BMX or fancy doing trials with a few BMW kind of moves (spins,hops etc..)you will be better off with 24" Im no expert at all but i think whatever size you buy you will just adapt to it. I cant comment on those bikes as i ride 24" and no nothing about 26" What ever you decide im sure you will have loads of fun!

Just about to water bleed my HS33 (with syringe, as im to lazy to remove it off the bike..) i have done a few search's but cant really find the answers im looking for... i understand that there sometimes is a problem with the piston sticking due to the water/no lubrication. questions... 1. To confirm we talking about the piston in the lever, not the master cylinder...Correct? 2. How common is this problem? shall i bleed and see how i get on or sand down the piston straight away? 3. How do you remove the piston from the lever..? any additional advise...? Cheers for your help..

Very intresting stuff.... i wonder if any of this changes using phat phluid? im sure its mainly water based but would the lubrication (part of the mix apparntly)aid the friction caused by swelling? i suppose as know one knows the exact mixture (apart from phat themselves) this would be dificult to answer... Anyone using it? worth the £12.00 or just us water/antifreeze...?

Thanks for the replys chaps! maybe i will give the welding a miss, i was not aware of the heat treatment was needed

Hi all, my onza zoot 24" is currently running a hs33 with evo 2 mounts, but as they are so crap (always moving out of position) I am thinking of removing the vee brake lugs and re welding on some hs33 mounts. Does anyone know where or if you can buy the female threaded Ali bosses that can be welded to the frame so the hs33 mounts clamp down on, then a new paint job...!! Any help would be great!

Thanks guys, just the answer I was looking for, much appreciated!!!

Hi, I need to remove my Echo SL 108 Freewheel, the Echo tool is nearly 3 times the price of any other FF tool. Will any of the other tools work? i suspect not but thought it might be worth asking! Yes i know i am a tight git...

Thanks Adam, i might be on tarty to purchase a syringe then! Cheers revolver for the advise aswell. I know this has probably been asked a million times but is there any chance of a leek from anywhere with the water as its much thiner than the oil? im happy with my magy with oil but everyone says how much better it is with water i might give it a go...?

Sorry dont mean to hijack the thread but just a question... Can you water bleed in the same way as shown in the video above? (i.e with a syringe) i know the answer will be its quicker with a bath bleed, but its not when you have to remove it from the bike with Evo 2 mounts!!

Yeah I did think of glueing them but was not sure if it would be strong enough? I thought they might be moulded in from not not glued? Is that how you connect replacement pads into there backings then?

Hi as per description I'm a fan of rockman green pads on my smooth rim but I have had two sets and both are coming out of the backings, is this just me or is this common? Any suggestions? Cheers

You will need a tool if you need to remove the old freewheel first, no tool require to fit a new one, a little grease on the thread screw it on as far as you can by hand, hold the brakes on and try to pedal it will tighten itself up! Be sure to check the black lock ring often, I had a tensile 60 the lock ring came loose and shredded all the inners!