stephenmx50

If possible i would see if you can have a ride on a big V-twin before parting with your cash, they are certainly not everyone's cup of tea! Its not that they are any faster or even more powerful its just the way the engine puts the power down and when you shut off can be much more aggressive than anything you would have experienced on the average 600 inline four. Hope this helps a little.

Never rode one personally but they do have a reputation "slapper" for being a bit of a hand full, not sure how much truth there is in the actual tank slapper part? Not sure your experience of riding bikes? but having rode other V-twin machines they are not always for the faint hearted and not as forgiving as a standard four cylinder machine, but do have there advantages of engine braking, loads of torque etc! I think there is a forum for them - Tlzone or something similar? Although im sure you will only get bias opinions speaking to other TL owners

My advise would be to avoid any split link at all costs! Use the chain to tool to shorten the chain to the correct length, this will be much stronger

IMO most of the problems come from the slaves, the lever/piston are fine water bleed! Some problems caused from leaking from the lever are because the TPA is wound out to far past the sealing point. (check on tarty website for more info on this) I have a water bled echo TR rim brake up front with Maggy Slaves fitted, been on there for 2 years - not a single leak!

I was in a similar situation to you a month or so ago, i wanted to start cycling to work (keep fit + fun, 20 mile round trip per day.) i was looking around for weeks for a second hand bike (around the £250 - £300 mark) but as said above they do hold there value more than your average mountain bike. What with trying to find one local, correct size and the right price i just gave up and went down the road of buying new. After a bit of reaseach i brought a "Btwin triban 3" new from decathlon. £300.00 brand new!! IMO complete bargain for the quality of bike you get!! Way better than anything from halfords for a simlar price. Infact at one point i was willing to spend just over the £400 mark but still could not find anything better than the Triban 3 at £300. Unless you can spend upwards of £450 + its defo worth considering. Just though id add my 2 pence....

I dont think there is much benefit on a TGS style bike. From my knowledge of floating discs they started in the motorcycle world (i beleive) with the idea of the floating part helping stop the disc from warping when they get hot, you would often find that a floating disc would not actually be floating after intense use as the heat has made them expand, such heat without the floating part would make the disc warp and possibly stay warped. With no real speed used in trials im not sure of any significant gains of floating, just another part that has potential to go wrong if you ask me Im sure there could be some other benefits aswell, they also look very smart..... :wink2:

http://www.sporcle.com/games/RobPro/1-100-click-me My best is 48 (was also my first go........) Have fun.......

:bow:

This is a bicycle trials forum, so your asking in the wrong forum im afraid.... No engines here........... Its a 2 stroke though......

Completely agree with all said above, If its as good as stated then i dont think you can knock the product/service itself. I will not be doing it as i just cant justify that price for my trials riding budget. But as said above if you willing to pay top money for top products a meer £90 does not seem to bad at all. Anyone that is dissing the product itself (not the costs).... ask yourself..... would you be knocking it if it was £20/£30?? I dont think the grinder would ever be used again. (as i said before this is based on it is as good as stated of course)

Sorry for double post, (now triple ) PC crash!

I think you will find 175mm is most common, although not sure there is a "propper length" personal preferance.

£35.00 posted..... Pm me if interested.

If by any chance you are after a pair of Ribo Lites UK size 10 in good condition (only been used for 2 months) im your man....

Very sweet!! Although you must have the worlds longest right index finger to reach that front brake Nice KTM in the background.... 250SX?

Same here! Those tests are not always the same for everything (well in my case there not anyway....) I ride trials left foot forward, Snowboard right foot forward etc etc... Once you have rode for a while it will become clear what foot you prefer (or are best with), i agree with above once you know what foot stick with that only and practise.

Not sure what day to come sat or sun? can't do both! with the comp on sunday will there still be many sections to ride for non comp riders?

BY FAR the easiest way to remove grips (foam or rubber) is with an air line (obviously not the best way if you do not have an air line!) Lift the edge of the grip up slightly point the nose of the air line under the grip give it a little blast and hay presto she's off! 10 Second job, no mess!

The feel at the Lever with a water Bleed is SOOOOO much better!! I cant understand why people dont water bleed, its simple to do costs next to nothing, even if you purchase the syringe and tubes off tarty (which then makes it a real doddle to do) its probably less than buying a pot or Maggy Royal blood. Drummer: I use the same setup you have, HS33 Slaves and Echo TR Lever water bleed with 50:50 water antifreeze, never had a problem.. winner Ok so some people do have issues down the line with slaves seals sweling etc... This shouldnt happen for some time and when it does slaves dont cost a fortune and the price they cost is hugely out weighed by the lever feel you would have had all that time, IMO

As said above, its not a great idea buying new as trials bikes don't last shinny very long! Most Onza 20" bikes are great for starting out, you can pick up a few in the for sale section on here or ebay if you no what your looking for.. If you dont get on with trials you can re sell it and not loose much money at all buying second hand. Maybe something like this....

You will also need a nice solid vice and a long lever as well as the tool to remove the freewheel.

I want a pair of danny mac's "magical gloves"....... Have you seen at 0.34 in the video his gloves just vanish after picking up the railway sleeper...! The shoes do look smart though....

The norm is once removed from the box and packaging is just to put the front wheel in and fit the bars, brake leavers on the bars etc.. If there is any cable brakes these might need to be fitted. As for hydraulics theses will come fully bleed and fitted ready to go. You will only need basic tools (few spanners, Allen keys etc..) simples realy....

Theres no "best" wheel size for anyone really, just what you prefer. If you can, try and have a go on a few sizes before you purchase a bike. IMO its probably easier to learn trials moves on a 20" if your a real novice but if you come from a mountain bike background you might like to stick to 26" wheels or if you intend to learn street/bmx moves 24" might be better suited..

I owened a Zoot for around 4 months so can give some advise.... Brake booster: I would recomend this as the rear of the zoot frame has a lot of flex. Sorry i cannot recomend an exact one because i fitted a Magura HS33 brake to the rear of mine so did not require one. (fitting the HS33 was a nightmare, so i would recoemd a good Vee set up) If you ask tartybikes im sure they can recomend one or measure one up to let you know what fits. If i was you i would purchase the brake booster (when you work out what one) then a good set of vee brake pads. If your a real beginer i would not bother with a rim grind just stick to the standard rim with good pads suitable for smooth rims, with the booster this will be a very good brake to start out. Other than that the bike is good out of the box, however a spare chain would be good as the standard one stretches badly! only lasted me 1 month! Overall its a perfect starting bike (its what i started on aswell) have fun!