ezgonzo

#5 Caliper for +20 fork if running a 180mm rotor.

the brake shown in the video is different however the technique shown in the video apply's to all the brake models, i have a front tech trial and i used the same technique to centre my pads so i can confirm that it works. i will have a quick bash @ trying to give a step by step guide, however forgive me if it's not that great as it's something thats easier to show and do rather than explain but here goes, step 1 : identify which pad is furthest away from the rotor, step 2 : insert a flat headed screw driver between that pad and the caliper just infront of the pad retention pin as shown in the video, step 3 : once the screw driver is in place push/lever the pad against the rotor. step 4 : pull the lever a few times while still holding the pad against the rotor. step 5 : remove screwdriver and check pad alignment, if done correctly the pad that was furthest away from the rotor should now be closer to the rotor and the opposite pad should now be further away from the rotor. if the pads hav'nt moved across enough repeat steps 2 through to 5 again, if the pad's have moved accross to far and the other pad is now rubbing against the rotor just repeat the process again but this time push the other pad in. hope that explains it a little better. ez. edit: YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE BRAKE OR PADS INORDER TO CENTRALISE THE PADS

the hope website has a lot of usefull info plus videos in regards to serviceing and setting up most of there products including there brakes, heres a link too a video on there site that shows how to centre brake pads ( how to centralise pistons/pads ), hope that helps, ez.

15" chainstays is about right for a 24", to be fair your lbs is'ant going to be asked questions like that on a daily basis if @ all , so some times you need to educate them alittle inorder to get the answer you require.

spank stiffy al40's, not the lightest around weighing in @ 720g but they are 40mm's wide so they fit the fourplay perfect, they are also super strong aswell, i've had mine for a few months now and i have'nt had to take the spoke key to them yet, not to mention they are only £50 for the pair. here's a pic of them on my fourplay,

i'm still only seeing 32 spokes ( am i not normal or something ), if you look @ the pic it's quite clear to see that there are 8 group's of four, 8 x 4 = 32, are my eyes lying to me? ,

my eye's may not quite be as sharp as they used to be due to the fact that i'm an old fart, however from looking @ the pics i'm still only seeing 32 spokes, here's another pic of the wheel that i've managed to hunt out ,

you could give it a try without cam's, however i'm pretty sure the driveside will end up getting pulled forward after a few pedal kicks, also the serrated steel ends on the heavy duty axles have a habit of braking/cracking if you over tighten the fun bolts, your best bet is as you suggested, drill out your tr cam's to 12mm and you should be golden, i drilled out the driveside on a tr cam to 12mm when i had my zhi z3 and it worked perfect, if drilling it out is a no go then a rat tail file followed by a lot of sweating and swearing is another option.

yes it is 32 hole .

thanks for all the comments and advice peeps much appreciated , i've made a few upgrades within the last couple weeks so i've edited and added some new pics to the op ( LINK TO OP ). hope you like. ez

as trialsnoobie pointed out eclat do a nice brown pivotal seat, here's a link My link , coincidently i stumbled accross it yesterday while looking for a replacement seat for my fourplay, it's supposed to be really comfy and well made, when i have a bit of spare cash i think i will be investing in a black one.

i had two wheels built last week for £80 the pair that included labour + spokes and nipples, a little on the high side imo but they did have them ready within two hours so can't grumble about the service, however i am going to give lacing up a rim a go @ some point so hopefully in the future i won't have to rely on someone else to do it + it will be so much more satisfying knowing that it was built by yourself.

cheers for the input , it feels great to ride and the front end is pretty spot on height wise, i'm just not 100% comfy with the bars, they sweep back a bit to far for my liking, i was actually looking @ getting the inspired risers like you mentioned, whats the back sweep like on them?. cheers again for the advice. thanks much appreciated . the holy rollers i bought from tarty's.

Hi all, Finally got my new bike up and running, it's been a long old month and a bit but it was well worth it in the end, the bike feels so balanced and smooth, and just feels so much more comfortable to ride than my zhi z3 was. I could bable on all day about it but i won't bore you so on with the specs: FRAME - INSPIRED FOURPLAY 2010. FORKS - NEON CURVED BLADE 2010 FORKS. HEADSET - HOPE HEADSET. STEM - TRIALTECH SPORT FORGED HIGH RISE- ( 110MM - 25 DEG ). GRIPS - TRIALTECH FOAM GRIPS. HANDLEBARS - TRIALTECH HIGH RISE SEAT CLAMP - ECHO. SEAT POST - INSPIRED PIVOTAL. SEAT - LEAF KEVLAR PIVOTAL. BB - ECHO TR. CRANKS - MIDDLEBURN ISIS ( 170MM ). BASHRING - MIDDLEBURN PRO + 22T INNER CHAINRING. PEDALS - INSPIRED PLATFORM. TENSIONER - ROHLOFF. FRONT BRAKE - TECH TRIAL + 180MM ROTOR. REAR BRAKE - ECHO TR / HEATSINK CNC YELLOWS / TNN CLAMPS / TRIALTECH 4 BOLT BOOSTER FRONT WHEEL - HOPE PRO 2 / DT SWISS SPOKES / SPANK STIFFY AL40 RIM. REAR WHEEL - CHRIS KING CLASSIC WITH FUN BOLTS + HEAVY DUTY AXLE + STEEL DRIVESHELL / TRIALTECH 14T / DT SWISS SPOKES / SPANK STIFFY AL40 RIM. CHAIN - TRIALTECH TYRES - 2.4" HOLY ROLLERS. the pics are'nt that great to be honest as they where taken with my phone so apoligies for that, It's not quite 100% finished yet, going to replace the handle bars and possibly the stem along with the seat @ some point, also i'm in need of a new qr for the front, but it rides great so there's no great rush @ the mo, if anyones got any suggestions regarding stem and bar choice i'd be extremely greatfull for any imput. thanks ez. UPDATE 04/09/2011 I've made a few changes in the last couple of weeks too fine tune the feel of the bike as it just did'nt quite feel right, the upgrades are as follow's : TRIALTECH HIGH RISE BARS TNN MAGGY CLAMPS TRIALTECH 4 BOLT BOOSTER TRIALTECH Z610 HX, 3/32'' CHAIN SEASON "KEVLAR LEAF" PIVOTAL SEAT I also grinded the rear rim, even though the yellows are not too bad on a smooth rim i was still getting a few slips every now and again, one of the slips resulted in my neck being fecked for a week after flipping out landing too rear, not my finest moment but it gave my m8's a laugh . a few pics of how she looks now. hope you enjoyed the pics, and a big thanks goes out to tarty bikes and all the forum members that i purchased items from, the items and service was top notch from everyone, ez. UPDATE 12/11/2011 Another update and hopefully the last , its' now about 99% finished just need to work on stem height and bar angle to find the perfect position, some black headset spacer's will be the last part's to get as i'm not to keen on the silver one's, but there not essential @ the mo, getting out and getting some proper riding time in is what's needed, the latest upgrades where: INSPIRED ELEMENT FORKS. CHRIS KING HEADSET. HOPE CNC 2011 STEM (70 X 25 ). TRIALTECH SL TITANIUM TOP CAP. HOPE GRIP DOCTOR BAR ENDS. NEW MONO TRIAL CALIPER, AND HOPE TECH TRIAL PRO PADS. ROCKMAN 180MM ROTOR. 2011 MAGURA HS33 REAR BRAKE, AND TRIALTECH HOSE SPLITTER. MIDDLEBURN SUPER PRO 18T BASHRING. CHRISKING 12T SPROCKET. TRIALTECH CARBON DRIVESHELL SPACERS. HOPE CNC 09 FRONT QR. HOPE QR SEAT CLAMP. THANKS FOR LOOKING AND HOPE YOU ENJOYED THE PICS, FEEL FREE TO LEAVE A COMMENT GOOD OR BAD, EZ.

your an absolute star bud , thank you very much. just out of curiousity how did you know the ERD as i've been hunting around everywhere trying to find some info on the 24" rim. cheers again ez.

hi, just wondering whether anyone knows the ERD for spank stiffy al40 24" rims, the rim's are in the post so i can't measure them and the spank site only gives the ERD for 26" rim's, if anyone can help me out i'd be very greatfull. thanks ez.

i'm guessing your sprocket is a 16t if so then your tensioner is fine, like other's have mentioned you need to adjust the tensioner so there's more chain wrap and a bit more tension aswell, you may need to shorten your chain aswell. i've edited your pic to show what i mean, as shown in the pic you want to have the arm as close to the drop out as possible while @ the same time pulling the pulley's near level with the arm aswell in order to increase the tension, hope that helps and makes sense .

in regards to the axle slipping issue, ali is spot on i had the same echo wheel, it tightened up fine on my zhi z3 but when i put it on a zoo pitbull the alu spacer did'nt clamp to the drop outs, this was because the zoo drop out's where thinner than the zhi's so the bolt hit the axle before the spacer touched the drop out, like ali said just space it out with a washer or file the axle down.

loving the frame and colour and nice spec , but i would have to agree with craigjames, it's a little too busy with the different green and gold parts imo, but it's your bike so it does'nt matter, we all have different tastes so as long as you like it that's all that matters, just go out and enjoy it, that's what trials is about. ez.

totally agree this type of tyre (soft one side hard the other) is useless for trials, my responce was in reference to the op regarding the use of daul compound tyres in motogp .

if you think about it logicly it is useful, it's quit hard too actually put it into words but i will give it a bash . irc most tracks go clockwise and have more right hand corner's, this means that one side of the tyre is always hotter than the other, so the right hand side of the tyre always has more grip than the left hand side, in order to compansate for this you could have a slightly softer compound on the left hand side of the tyre that requires less heat inorder to reach similar grip levels as the harder compound on the right hand side of the tyre, this would also provide teams with a lot more choice's regarding which tyre too use, for longer races they would be able to run a harder compound on the right side without compromising grip in the left hand corners. not too sure how much sence that makes but it sounds about right in my head .

nice setup there, was going to jump on the sandybridge bandwagon but decided to give benching a rest for a bit and get back into trials, so sold off must of my gear but kept the i7 setup which consist's of. 980X (ONE CORE IS KNACKERED DUE TO BENCHING SO WILL ONLY RUN ON 5 CORES 10 THREADS). GIGABYTE X58A-UD7 6GB G-SKILL PII 1600MHZ 6-8-6-20 ASUS GTX 295 150GB VELOCIRAPTOR CORSAR HX850W PSU LIAN LI V2000 the best oc i've had out of the 980x is 4.7 under phase cooling it was only bench stable though, i've had the rig for less than a year and it's already considered old tech such is the way that tech moves so quickly. in regards too your psu i would strongly recommmend getting a decent branded one asap especially if your going to oc, it could save you a load of money in the long run. also if you need any help or pointer's regarding oc'in your rig just drop us a pm, also a site called benchtec is a great place for info. (soz to all for going off topic some what).

my bad should of read the op in more detail :$ , as for spacing the frame out, it should have little to no effect regarding stressing your frame, in theory your only pushing the dropouts 1.5mm out on both sides, my maggy flexed my frame that much if not more than that when i used it without a booster so you while be fine, it's not ideal and it's a bit of a bodge but it won't harm. (on a side note what sort of rig you running, got a corsa hx1000w psu sitting on me desk doing nothing, it's only been used a handfull of times in my benching rig, if your interested just drop us a pm ).

what brake are you using?, hope mono trial?, if it is a hope caliper your using, then you need to use shims ( thin washers ) between the frame and caliper to line it up properly, here's a link for the shims My link

Thanks , lived in b'mth for a few years now, i used to ride a bit a fair few years back when i was still @ school but did'nt really get into it that heaverly as drinking and chasing skirt seemed like the better thing too do. been out a few times since building the bike but things don't seem to be geling like they used to, it's like i'm having to learn how to ride a bike all over again, back in the day it seemed so different, did'nt have a care in the world, i'd just launch off stupidly high drop offs and think whats the worst that can happen, i get time off from school, now unfortunitly i've got a career and responsibility's so there's somewhat of a mental block going on in there somewhere, hitting the deck is'nt an issue, i seem to spend a lot of the time smacking into the tarmac and a couple of times where quite fun apart from skining my shin and then doing it again two days later, not quite so much fun, apart from that i'm loving the bike . cheers , the one on the left is a zhi z3 (mine) and the one on the right is a echo pure 09 (bro's).