ezgonzo

it's a #3 caliper so the smallest disc you would be able to run on a standard (IS) fork mount would be 180mm, so unfortunately you'd need to purchase another rotor if you plan on using it as a front brake, it would work fine with a 160mm rotor if you where going to be running it as a rear brake, but you'd probably have to change the hose in order to use it as a rear.

yeah no probs i'll get one up asap, it's the black one so no shinyness i'm afraid . edit: here's a few pic's of it.

how's £9 posted sound?, soz about the not so bargain price but i sold something the other day and walked away with 49p in my back pocket after paying for postage, it will be sent via rmrd though, ,

i've got a 15t echo tr screw on sprocket in my spares box that i know longer need if that's of any use to you,

i'd be up for it tomorrow if the weather is'nt shit, need to get some motivation back and start riding more as it's been well over a month since i've taken the old girl out for a proper ride, what's stu and sean upto have'nt heard much from them lately, especialy sean since he moved, it would be good if we could all do one last big ride before the new year .

after having a quick look @ some pics of your hub, it looks quite possible that you could file the end caps down ( judging by the very few pics i managed to find ), which would reduce the overall hub lenght allowing room to fit cam's aswell as allowing the axle to seat further in the dropouts, however this method would only work though if the part of the axle that is covered by the end caps is still 10mm in dia, hope that makes sence . edit: i just read my first post and i meant to put the axle end caps instead of axle ends my bad :$ .

unless he was to get a file to the dropout's aswell i'm sure that cam's would'nt work on the outside.

what hub are you running?, i'm presuming the reason why cam's are out of the question is because your hub has a 135mm axle and the frame spacing is 135mm, if thats the case depending on your hub you could file down the axle ends 3mm on both side's to then be able to run cam's without having to pull the dropout's apart, or you could just run a cam on the drive side, it's not ideal and you will have to pull the dropout's apart a little bit when fitting the wheel but it won't cause any issues apart from being a little bit awkward. also inregards to cam's not stopping the wheel from moving, i had the same issue as you with my zhi z3 when i first built it up, but once i did a bit of fileing to the axle spacer's on my echo hub and fitted cam's the drive side stopped getting pulled forward, hope that helps.

as mark said around the seat tube is the way to go, it does look alot neater and keep's the hose's out of the way, however it can be a little tricky getting the length just right to allow for ajustment of the slaves but @ the same time not having the hose's too long that they start to bow out from the seatstay's, here's a pic of how i fitted one on my bike.

95 views and no reply's :lol: , this has to be one of the worst vid's to appear on tf judging by the responses or lack of , the vid was not ment to be serious in anyway, i think the aim of the vid was to bring a bit of humor back in to tf, and i'm sure there will be a more serious vid with some decent riding in it soon. ez.

thanks stuie , you forgot to add that i ride it like the stuff that comes out of your dogs backside aswell, but i know your a tgs whore @ heart so i will let you off , cheers for all the comments pep's much appreciated , i will be swapping the spacer's out @ some point for either black or carbon ones, i'm swaying more towards some black hope one's though but we will see. i have to agree luke that the angle of the bar's do look somewhat weird in the pic's to be honest, it's something i'm still in the process of working out, i want it to be somewhat controllable on the rear wheel for side hops and gaps without compromising bunnyhops, manual's and such, it does feel rather comfy though and today was probably the first time in a long time that my wrists did'nt ache after a ride but i will have a play with the bar position while out riding tomorrow. ez.

UPDATE (12/11/2011) i've made a few upgrades and improvements over the last couple of months, so as today was technically the first proper ride on her finished, i stopped to grab a few pics, i've added the pics to the bottom of the first post, ( Link to first post ). Hope you enjoy, and all comments good and bad are welcome. ez.

i had an echo 4 bolt booster on my old zhi z3 and to be honest i found that it did'nt really do that good of a job, it reduced a little bit of flex but not a great deal. i'm now running a trialtech 4 bolt booster on my inspired and it's solid, little to no flex that i can see, before i fitted the booster the seat stays flexed quite a lot and the brake felt quite spongy but now she's pucker , the only down side is the price. a slightly cheaper option would be a tensile booster, there probably one of the stiffest booster's around, there not the best looking imo or the lightest but they do work well, my bro run's one on his echo 24 and it's solid. hope that helps ez.

i've stripped a few things with coustic and the results varied each time, some items took only a few seconds before the anodizing was completely dissolved, other things like a middleburn bash ring took a lot longer in a much more concentrated mix, it all depends on the quality of the anidizing, i have a feeling that your onza has a very dense coating, if this is the case then it will need to be exposed to a higher consentrated mix for a longer period, dipping the whole frame would be the best way instead of brushing it on but obviously that would require a large amount of coustic and the fumes that it would give off would most likely kill you if you where to under go this method in your bathroom without any safety gear. hope that helps. ez.

irq the bmx axle have a 10mm thread where as the ck fun bolts have a 12mm thread, the bmx axle use's a standard 10mm allen bolt with ally washer instead, here's a link to show what i mean ( My link ), any 10mm allen bolt around 30mm long should do the job fine.

why does there seem to be such a divide between rider's of mod's/stock's and rider's of 24" bike's, imo the design of mod's and stock's are going further away from the design of the traditional trails bike, also the style of riding has changed and is on the whole just about static moves and how high you can sidehop or how far you can gap from rear, so the whole argument about 24" bikes and the style in which there ridden is a load of bull, imo the design is more in keeping with the traditional true trials bike and the style that there riden in is similar. also who ever say's that an inspired 24" is just a lighter bigger bmx is somewhat deluded, my inspired weighs in @ 11kg , which your find is a fair bit heavier than your average bmx, the wheel size is also closer to a stock bike than a bmx, i personnally think that there are far to many young people on here that only believe that how high you can sidehop and gap is what trials has always been about, but i'm sorry to have to tell you that santa does'nt exist and side hops was not what trials was about, it has always been about good old banter and having a laugh with your m8's and enjoying riding aswell as finding new ways of riding the environment around you. all of the above is my opinion, it may not be everyones opinion and i am in no way saying my opinion is superior to anyone else's , i would also like to add that even though i don't like just side hopping and gaps i do enjoy watching other's doing that kind of thing and have the upmost respect for them for doing some of the things they do. ez.

epic vid guys , looked like a lot of fun and a good bit of banter going on aswell which helped to break the vid up a bit, stella riding from all aswell as some nice big lines, one of the best vids i've seen.

i find bunnyhoping over objects or onto walls easier than bunnyhoping from a stand still, i tend to loop out when trying to bunnyhop on the spot, so i would advice trying a rolling bunnyhop up a curb to start with, then try something a little higher and so on, getting the front end up is the easy part, the biggest part to master is sucking the back end up, just keep practising and you will master it in no time.

i'm using this chain @ the mo with a rohloff My link, seems fairly decent for the price. even though it's only a 3/32" i had to ditch the snap link and connect the chain the old fashioned way with a chain tool as the link kept getting snagged on the tensioner arm as it went round the first jockey wheel, it was fine after it had gone round the first wheel though so you could space it out with a washer if you really wanted to run it with the snap link. hope that helps ez.

lighter fluid works a treat on both rubber and foam grips, it also evaporates pretty quickly as well so you don't have to wait around for it to dry, works great for removing grips aswell, i would add though if your fitting grips like the rockmans or trialtech foams to go a little easy with the lighter fluid, cus if you lace it on it will soak into the grips and the logos will rub straight off and you will end up with plain black grips. ez.

i don't doubt your word, however i have an sl and a ck sat in my house and the ck ingages in half the amount of rotation / distance than the sl, also the drag on the sl is enough for the cranks to turn round when pushing the bike, i had an sl on my zhi z3 and that was the same, i'm not trying to bash the sl cus it is a great product @ a great price, imo and experience the ck that i own out performs my old sl and my bro's sl, however i would also like to add that i would never pay the rrp price for a king over an sl on the basis of the performence difference between them. it just is'nt enough to warrent the £300+ price difference.

if you can get a group of four people together you can get a group discount on the train, 50% off each iirc.

I've had my ck classic for a couple of months now and its been pretty flawless, has'nt skipped once and feels so smooth, it also sounds awesome, however it does seem to need a bit of maintenance ever month or so, in regards to cleaning and re-lubing the drive rings due to drag and slightly laboured ingagement, i do quite a bit of mileage on it though, 60+ a week easily sometimes just going from a to b depending on whether i ride it to work or not. trying to compare a ck with an sl is somewhat like comparing apple's and orange's, the sl is one of the best if not the best ffw out there @ the moment and is also great value for money and needs little to no maintenance, however imo if your going to compare the two then the ck engages quicker, rolls smoother and has less drag than the sl but @ a cost, it also requires regular maintenance, hope that helps. ez.

if you've got a metal ruler handy you should be able to slot that between the pads and carefully lever them apart enough for the disk to slot in, once you've got the disk slotted between the pads, pump the lever a few times and it should be golden again. if you don't have a metal rule handy then a scrapper or an old bread knife would do the job.