HippY

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BU-081-TL&groupid=962&catid=1532 although it is 120mm rad http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-110-TL&groupid=962&catid=1532 cheap and good AIO my biggest problem with AIOs is that they do not really justify the price in my eye. if something brakes, you must change everything, you cannot customize it as well as a custom loop and does not look that cool, nor performs much better than a good and cheaper air cooler So probably you will pop it up with no problem, it is just not my preferred option

what? I am not a noisefreak (I have a good headphones, although my brother who hears my pc while tries to sleep might say otherwise lol) and I do not like AIOs....

exactly At the moment my GPU, a beast HD 7770 is really loud, as it is being used at many games at 1080p+ another monitor with random crap. I should upgrade it shortly for a quiet R9 290, so I can go 3xFHD easily Also I need to change my fans, they are bright LED fans and they are too bright at night

ha? good luck. honestly What make and model? basically what I wanted to say is that a proper heatsink is just a chunk of metal with a fan, that are usually simple enough so rarely brakes, whereas in an AIO you have pump, tubing, fittings, pump, radiator, and if something brakes, you must change everything, whereas in a custom loop you can change them. you can make a custom loop out of £110 ish

personally I would not go with an AIO. There are very good air cooling option, which are easy to use for a long time, as the only thing that can break is the fan. I would get a custom WC loop though, they are dope

it is basically you are building 4 expensive and weird bike over the period of 3 years, while practicing in your limited freetime a few moves, go to middle of nowhere, get wet and swim in the mud, while watching people from 3-93 years old to wreck you in riding, going on forums, talking about cars, computers and rant about ladies.... I think this sums up for me pretty well as for @PMK, what I found is that trials is more about a concentration sport rather than strength. of course, you need strength, but with technique and concentration you can get further than with pure power( exceptitons are there, Daemon Watson )

took a look around, it is the best you can get Regarding drive speed: it will be fine... although ofc there is always an upgrade

2.5" hdd-s are usually 9mm thick, a 2.5"ssd is usualy 7mm, though you can get adaptors for a few quid my next build will consist of SSDs only, no mechanical disks.

Someone( i have a feeling who) took off £40 off my paypal for game points for a game that i do not own Made a paypal dispute sent a mail to the game company, paypal said the account us frozen and so does the payment, no worries, got a phonecall that the account is unfrozen dispute still going Today £40 is missing from my bank account....

My bike is ready! After a long and professional testing ( 2 minutes ride, going down at my driveway, up, few pedal hops with brakes locked all the time, so no kicks) I am safe to say that: It does not behave anything like the Omen it is light ( a Kenda front tyre would shave down a half a Kg but still really light) looks amazing flickery and after half a year break from riding, in 2nd go I could do backwheel hops. this bike is incredible cannot wait for the wind to go away so I can ride it properly!(2 hours of slow ride because of the Jitsie ffw ofc)

yes, sorted! luckily I had this issue, because I had the wrench in hand, then realized the cups were not even tight...... now it is ready!

where should i put the bb spacer? driver side or no driver side if i want the whole stuff move towards driver side? Sadly no, they are servicing " normal bikes"

oookay this thing is getting ridiculously hard to build I have the Neon 24" frame and I got some Echo Urban CNC cranks I put the left crank on, and it there is like a cm distance between the crank and the frame on driver side, the crank hitting a frame, like a mm too small distance. Is there any way where I can space out the BB/cranks the they move a tiny bit to the right?we are talking about 2mm I might even have a proper BB spacer

yes, that thank you guys! All I need is a chain, because this Z610HX seen so much force and pressure from vices...

Well, 3rd thread mainly concentrated on one problem.. I got the sprocket off thank god, but now I have a different problem. I fitted the sprocket and tightened with hand lightly. that means the bashring is completely stable, does not move around, so it is tight enough for the test fit There is 2 lines of thread visible on the freewheel. I know it will get tighter when I will pedal, but I do not believe that it has 2 thread (2 mmish) distance to travel Is it safe to use it this way, or I should remove it and get a new bashring (= freewheel tool and bashring, so rather expensive)

I was watching a "Let`s Make a Spaceship" documentary about Skrillex and the production for the gigs, and I realised it would be a good option for me (I worked with lights and sound at school, I can work unhuman hours for days) and just told my teacher whether he knows some teacher who can help me out He is writing an email for the boss of The Production House, the largest festival and club electronic supplier in Northern Ireland so stoked, hope he gets an answer!

that is clever and stupid. that is an X79 PC built into a laptop house I would rather get something X99 mATX with a good Xeon/i7 +mmonitor

Do you need large space? it sounds like you need an SSD. They cost like £130 extra for 510GB Otherwise you would need a 1080p screen for the Adobe, it really helps. I am using 2 1080p screens for designing circuits, and personally I love the larger resolution, makes lines smoother and zooming out from complicated boards better. that is the reason why I plan to get a 4K display

Hey guys I am planning to change the rear rim on my bike at the moment it is laced with an Echo rim (ERD 480) and I want to lace a Because rim there (ERD 491) Is it possible to do with the old set of spokes or I should buy new ones?

sorry my bad HD= 1366*768(p) Full HD= 1920*1080(p) (W)QHD= 2560*1440(p) UHD= 3840*2160(p) 4k=4096*2160(p) UHD is also referred as 4K, as UHD exactly 4x the resolution of the Full HD, but the original standard was the 4096, hence the name 4K Basically you want to go with a 1920*1080p, aka Full HD monitor. They have good resolution (many high end phones use this resolution), not that expensive (although rare-ish in laptops) and has a good image quality (it varies in many factor but resolution can help)

it really helps me, much easier to use than the usually horrible touchpad Electronic devices MUST have 2 years manufacturer warranty in the UK, it is one of the law here, so it is not a problem

What budget do you have? Around £400 ish brands does not really matter, but there are some sweet deals £600+ it is worth to look for a full HD screen and as good hardware as you can get/need Touchscreen worth it dabs.com amazon.com pc world/curries tesco argos I would look that way

We cannot find a pole, that is our problem

quick question regarding cranks: How much does it matter if I mix the cranks? so for example I get a new driver side cranks with no sprocket, as it seems it will take a good while to find someone with the tools to take the cranks off in a short period of time. it would be the 170mm too and wide-ish offset