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Target last won the day on August 12 2018

Target had the most liked content!

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About Target

  • Rank
    Trials Newbie
  • Birthday 09/16/87

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  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
    Non UK
  • Bike Ridden
  • Quick Spec
    Triton 24"
  • Country
    Christmas Island

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  1. Looks really cool! It would be really nice to see some photos on some less colourful background. What is the weight?
  2. Switching from 90 mm rise to 110 mm rise will definitely affect your riding, but how exactly - it really depends on the angle of your bar (do you set it vertically or roll forward?), and on your riding style. But I highly recommend to try 110 mm rise. If you like newschool front wheel moves - you will love it. Worst case scenario - you'll sell the handlebar.
  3. Does anybody have any experience with these tires? Which of them is the best in terms of: - traction (on dry and wet surfaces) - snake bite resistance
  4. Crewkerz through-axle disk hub is definitely heavy, but there are some major pluses: more rigid front and simplicity of the installation. Personally, I'm a big fan of light components, but I'm considering Crewkerz through-axle setup. Also, I think that in the next few years we will see through axle hubs from other companies as well.
  5. You can probably ask Echo dealer in your region if he can order the fork from Echo. There are also Extension carbon forks for street trials, but they are heavier than pure trials carbon forks.
  6. Nowadays, 20" bikes usually have disc rear brakes, and 26" bikes have rim rear brakes. So what is the best type of a rear brake for a 24" trials bike, rim or disc? There was only one way to find out... About rear disc brake: (I have been riding rear rim brake on 24" since 2008, so I compare mostly with the rim brake setup) Disc brakes are standard for 24" in street trials, but pure trials is a very different thing. When it comes to disc brakes in trials, one of the first things that comes to mind is the flex between rim and rotor. It feels terrible if the flex is significant. I tried to make the flex as little as possible: stronger spokes, maximal spoke tension, hub where disc mount connects directly to the flange, strong symmetric rotor, no adapters. The result is pretty satisfying. There is some flex, but not much, about a few mm. The tyre deformation feels much more significant than that much of a flex. A real advantage of this setup is much more controllable breaking than with the rim brake, that does really affect riding, and in a good way. The hold is a bit better with a disc than on my previous rim setup. I also like that hold doesn't get worse in dusty/wet conditions, which was the issue with the rim brake. Not sure yet which setup I like more, disc or rim. But at least disc setup seems to be a working option for me, not just an experiment. About the frame: 1075 mm - it's really long for a 24" bike, 20 mm longer than my previous Echo 24". Gaps and pedal ups are easier on the new frame, but switches have become much more difficult. There are a lot of situations in trials when you carry the bike by the top tube. It's much more comfortable to hold the top tube without the hose outside. That's why internal routing was a must. So I had to cut hose holders from the frame, and put some stickers on the place. Spec: Frame and fork - Frame: Gu 24" 2019 (made internal hose routing, cut some holes on the bottom bracket tube to reduce weight) - Fork: Rockman Carbon 24" 4-bolt Front wheel - Rim: Neon Single 35 mm - Tyre: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 24"х2.1 - Tube: Schwalbe 7C - Hub: Verzin SL - Spokes: Sapim Laser 2.0-1.5-2.0 - Nipples: DT Alu Rear wheel - Rim: Neon Single 47 mm - Tyre: Schwalbe Fat Albert Rear 24"х2.4 - Tube: Schwalbe 7C - Hub: Jitsie Race 135 disc - Spokes: Sapim Race 2.0-1.8-2.0 - Nipples: DT Alu Front brake - Lever: Trialtech Jack Carthy - Slave cylinders: Echo TR - Pads: TNN Belaey with Racing Line alu backings - Racing Line alu fittings and grub screws - Clamps: Echo TR with Ti bolts Rear brake - Brake: Hope Trial Zone - Pads: Jitsie - Rotor: Hope V2 180 mm Drivetrain - Cranks: Born CNC 2012 162 mm - Freewheel: Jitsie 108.9 - Bashring: Trialtech Sport Lite - Chain: KMC X9-73 - Rear Sprocket: Jitsie Alu 14T - Pedals: Trialtech Jack Carthy - Bottom bracket: Echo Urban Ti - BB bolts: Ti M15 Steering - Stem: Neon Wing 150х30 with Ti-bolts - Grips: Pro bar tape - Handlebar: Clean Carbon K1.2 690 mm - Headset: Echo tapered Weight: 6.97 kg Geometry: Wheelbase: 1075 mm Chainstay length: 368 mm BB rise: 75 mm Head angle: 73°
  7. I also have the same question, but as far as I know Rockman doesn't produce them anymore. And I wasn't able to find this fork for sale anywhere on the internet. It looks like you have only 2 options: 26" carbon fork (Echo or Crewkerz), or aluminium 4-bolt fork.
  8. How have you managed to change the color of all anodized parts? Is it just paint, or it's re-anodizing?
  9. Don't look for opinions on the colour, build the bike the way you like! Personally, I love the frame colour (maybe because my frame is also orange anodised). I'd get rid of the red rockring though.
  10. I guess it's time for a little update. The frame has finally cracked in the headtube area, between the bottom tube gusset and the headtube. We decided to remove the gusset and material with the crack, and make a carbon patch. It was just an experiment, but it went quite well. This happened in September, and the fix is still holding fine. I thought the adhesion between carbon and aluminium would be an issue, but it is holding surprisingly strong. Now I have a new frame waiting to be built, so I do a lot of static hooks on this old one to find out how long this fix gonna last
  11. The rotor mount on the hub is what concerns me. It is built to handle braking in cross-country, and forces when you do pedal up to front are much higher than that. But Extralight makes high quality products, so maybe it will be fine. Sounds interesting anyway. Will it be 24" or 26" wheel?
  12. I made PU clamps of a piece of polyurethane, it was polyurethane for shoe repairing that I bought years ago for making brake pads. The guide is made from alu tube and 1.8 mm spoke centered in the tube with grub screws. I don't have any guide, but I can send you some drawings if you want.
  13. Have you ever torn the brake hose or broken the fitting while riding? I have, and a few times. One time it happened during competitions. I don't know how I managed to press the fitting using bare hands, a pedal and a lighter, but after that I decided to build this tool.
  14. I never liked the idea of installing rim brake fittings to the brake hose using a vise and a hammer. It would be so much easier to have something similar to the chain tool, that can press the fitting into the hose. Also, you don't always have vice and hammer with you The are some tools on the market for installing disk brake fittings, but they don't seem to be compatible with magura rim brake fittings. I found only one tool for installing rim brake fittings, but it is designed for usage in workshops, therefore it is large and expensive. So I decided to build the tool myself, and make it in a portable, pocket size, so I can put it with a bleed kit and a bottle of fluid, and have it with me just in case. Quite satisfied with the result, the tool works really nice. Using it is pretty simple. At first, you put the fitting with the guide into the hose Then, you install the hose with the guide into the tool And fix the hose in PU clamps of the tool using allen key Now it's time to start pressing the fitting into the hose The fitting goes into the hose really smooth, no extra efforts needed And it's done!
  15. I'm using Echo frame without a booster, and it does flex. A booster could help. However, on the front I use Rockman carbon fork, and the front brake feels very solid and stiff, but front brake performance is also poor. That's why I don't think the flex is a main cause of a bad hold.