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jeff costello

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Everything posted by jeff costello

  1. electrical tape is a good idea! i was planning on getting a hose splitter and rout the cable on the inside of the seat stays, fixing them with some cable binders. and also get a brake booster. is there any reason the m8 barbed fittings aren't available to buy anywhere?
  2. i've ripped out the brake cable of my 2014 hs33 a few times now, so i had to fix the hosing. my brake came with 3 barbed fittings on the slaves (shroud nut and olive on the lever) - 2x m8, 1x m6. without giving it much thought, i've just hammered the old barbs into the new hose. is there anything wrong with that? maybe even dangerous? also, i wanted to order some spares because i don't want to be left with a non-working brake. i can't find m8 barbed fittings anywhere. am i supposed to use shrouds and olives instead? thanks
  3. i keep ripping out my brake cables with my foot. now i've successfully rounded off the plastic bleed screw of my 2014 hs33 lever while refilling the brake for the second time in three days! maybe not my worst, but definitely top 5. (yes, i've read the warnings and i did try to be careful. but even that was too much)
  4. thanks for all the help. i finally went with the "f**k it" - option: only used it for a few minutes so far, but really happy with it. feels completely different to the fourplay and even some moves immediately felt more comfortable. some observations: that 25/16 gearing only works by a hairbreadth - the problem is not the chainring (there's lots of room for more), but the chain passes the magura mounts only by a millimeter or two. same thing with the crank and the magura slaves on the non-drive side. had to use three washers to the it far enough away. all in all i almost stayed within budget. did re-use the bars, brakes, cranks, bottom bracket and headset from the fourplay though. the price of all the new stuff was almost identical to the cost of the radix and a new rim for the rear and two or three small parts.
  5. great! thanks! (video is private though) i will try something like this. it's a trialtech 16t 72 clicks. and it's going on the back wheel.
  6. i got a freewheel-related question: is there another way of bedding in freewheel than riding around on the bike? sorry for my next-level-laziness here, but it's winter and i'm definitely not riding around on the trials bike for 4 hours as recommended. if i had known this before ordering, i would have gone for a different model, but it's too late now. since the skipping/coasting part seems to be the more important one, could i not put the wheel into the truing stand and fix the cog with some duct tape or something... and then keep the wheel spinning for half a day while watching tv? or come up with some contraption to put it on a drill and spin it on high power for half an hour??
  7. this thread is going for way longer than i expected, but i'm afraid i need some input again. i have painted myself into a corner with the parts i've chosen. i really want to change to a pure trials frame, but i can't spend a fortune (again). budget is around 500 with some wiggle room. somebody have an idea what's the best way to go here? a) stick with the rockman option (as described above): get new rear rim (i think i can re-use my old spokes, difference is just 1mm), try to make bmx cranks work and use either just one snail cam or none at all. get a frame that has integrated tensioners or accepts tugs: echo 24 or ozonys skill, get new rear rim, get new isis cranks & sprocket not really a fan of those frames, but the ozonys are really cheap (€180 for the "skill 24"). i like the black echo 24 a bit, but i'd have to get isis cranks, because of the spanish bb and the very little front sprocket clearance. c) say "f**k it" and go 20". (something i want to do at some point, didn't expect to do it now though). i actually contemplated this for a bit, as some frames and parts are cheaper, but i think the 116mm rear standard makes this idea too expensive. i looked around for something used to start out with, but i can't find anything here (either total crap or way too expensive). i think i'm still leaning towards option A. i guess i just need someone to encourage that this will actually work.
  8. thanks for the in-depth reply! i guess i'll stick to the fourplay for a while then. too much uncertainities/ bricolage involved for such an investment. i'll keep looking for a better suited frame for my setup. on a whim i put the 130mm stem on the fourplay (again) for tonight's riding and found it a big improvement. moves on the backwheel were noticeably easier and more comfortable. i take that as a hint that a more classical trial frame would be better for me. edit: i guess all the trial specific frames will have a similar spacing of the magura mounts? so i better expect building a new rear wheel in any case.
  9. now i've run into another problem someone else might have encountered before: how do hope evo rear hubs and snail cams work? i assume the hub has exactly 135mm? is the frame a bit wider to give space for the snail cams? or does it simply not work at all? can i run some kind of chain tug on the outside instead? like the inspired console tugs? the trialtech ones seem a bit long. or no tensioner at all? works on my fixie, but with a trial bike? i really don't want to buy a new frame and then be immediately be forced to a botch job with the chain tension. and if there is the slightest chance i might have to run a sprung tenisoner contraption again, i'm getting a different frame or stick with the fourplay.
  10. one more question regarding gearing: the chainstay length of the radix is 368mm. how's that measured with horizontal dropouts? innermost position? middle? end?
  11. sure, fourplay 2013 frame, team forks front: hope trial zone, 180mm back: hs33 2014 rims: inspired pro schwalbe talbe top tires (pretty worn, should be replaced soon) front hub: trialtech disc back: hope evo wethepeople royal cranks, animal pedals blank bikes euroBB inspired riser bars stem: onza 90/35 (my leftover stem is a trialtech 130/25) regarding gearing: i now run 22/15. but i'm still experimenting around, so i don't have a set preference now. i also have a 18t front sprocket, so i could easily switch to 18/14 if needed. i'm using the 22 right now mostly because of the bashring.
  12. thanks for your replies, this was very helpful. so the radix/inspired combo won't be totally ridiculous. i'll give it a try then. i could still get proper 24" forks a few months later, if need arises. something i didn't think of before was the weight of the forks, whether this would result in a very front-heavy bike. i checked and the rockman 24" forks are only about 100gr lighter than the inspireds. this can't make that much of a difference. i forgot to mention that i custom built my fourplay. so i mostly have quality parts and there is no reason to get a new bike.
  13. hello, long time reader, first timer writer. i have had a fourplay for about a year and i've been training a lot for the past 6 months. while making progress, i sometimes wish for something more pogostick-y, that is more willing to go on the backwheel. i actually only train trial-moves and next to no street stuff at all, apart from an occasional attempt at a footjam something. since i'm expecting a little christmas bonus this year, i was thinking about getting a rockman radix 24" frame. somehow it caught my eye and it should have appr. the geometry i'm looking for. also i VERY looking forward to horizontal dropouts. since i sidehop to the right the mech hangers and tensioners of the fourplay are a huge annoyance. but... this will only be an option if i can migrate all parts from the fourplay to the radix. including fork. (for the most parts this won't a problem, i have maguras in the back. and i know that i have to get a new headset and snail cams. and i also have a leftover longer stem). my questions are: can i used the inspired team fork in the radix? the difference in height between the inspired and other 24" forks is only between 0,5 and 1cm. is there any other reason for not using the inspireds? is the bottom bracket the same? do you generally think this i a good idea for a frame upgrade?
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