jeff costello

what about the dot-fluid? i still have some of that. edit: i put it back together and it seems to work again with some lube. haven't hooked it up to the brake hose yet (running the spare lever right now). we'll see. i will probably invest in a better quality lever soonish. what's a better product these days? racing line? clean?

ah, so the swelling is (might be) a permanent thing? hence the need to make the piston smaller... ok i think i get it. i will try lube first - just in case it was just some calcium or similar that was in the way (brake was unused for quite a while). if that doesn't help, i'll try and sand a bit off.

hello again, thanks to your ingenious method of using the pump, i got the piston out. is there anything i should do before putting it back together? lube? sorry for being a bit dim-witted here, but there's basically nothing to find online about those new magura levers.

thanks. i'll let it dry for a few days, then try again to get it loose.

thanks! i only have a cheap pump. i could fit it reasonably well to the lever, but it only generates about 4bar, so i have to think of something else. what's in there that can swell?

i was adjusting my brakes today, when suddenly my hs33 2014 carbotec lever stopped working. piston just went in, didn't come back out on its own, no more brake power at all. so i decided to open up the lever body to have a look at the internals. brake froze a few times during the winter, i guess that didn't make things better. fluid was water only. now i'm this far. what do i do now?? i tried pulling out that thing on the bottom with pliers, but that didn't work. do i need a new lever?

now that's spectacularly ugly.

since there a billion tech-savy people on here: wouldn't a ffw-adapter for bmx-style cranks a rather easy thing to build? just a cylinder with a thread on the outer sind and either a spline drive hole in the middle or an axle hole and another (nano drive) bolt? i guess this wouldn't be too complicated. i'd buy one. (possibly even easier if you make it with an built-in bash?)

i was looking into that a few months ago and the results were not encouraging. it's impossible (or close to) find a bmx hub with 32 holes or a trials rim with 36 holes. the only thing i could find was the hope bmx with 32 holes.

mike, i have no idea what you actually working on. but slipping tools can occasionally fixed by holding them in place with a quick release skewer or some kind of threaded bolt (with washers if necessary) i've successfully used that method with cog cassettes and (bmx) bottom brackets. edit: like this. second and third pic.

my favorite part was that the video starts with a brake noise. irony or accident?

yeah, it did its job so far. it just feels very flimsy when setting up. i prefer the classic hat-washers. they feel more solid and you definitely know when they are rightly in place.

i love my wtp-cranks. but i might switch to trials cranks because of the lack of bashguards with smaller sprockets. right now i run a 25t with one of those thingies. be careful: the inspired sprocket takes nano(micro?) drive. so you have to buy bmx cranks that are compatible with that. (they have two holes for the bolt that holds the sprocket in place) the only thing i dislike about the arcade sprocket is the weirdly shaped 22-19mm washer.

do your forks wear stockings? pervert!

spoiled = "verwöhnt". der reifen ist nicht hin, im gegenteil.

i'd love those for my hs33 and trialzone levers. but... how complicated is it to put in a new lever blade? never done it. anyone know a good tutorial?

your gf is carpet girl. i'm jealous!

apart from your shifter (handlebar and mech) it depends on how many gears your hub will take.

GOT IT OUT!!! for once plastic was a good thing. i heated up the tip of a flathead screwdriver with a candle. then i pressed it into the remains of the old bleed screw. it created a new groove which was enough to unscrew the stump. very happy now!

i've mentioned in the "worst screwups" thread that i've killed my lever bleed screw. the plastic one. the head totally crumbled to pieces, but the bottom is still stuck in there. is there anything i can do to repair that? or do i have to throw out the lever? ( i already ordered a replacement lever which should arrive tomorrow, so i can keep riding. but i'd still like to fix the old one to keep as a spare) one guy on here mentioned the re-cut the threads with a tap. is that the only way? i have zero experience using a tap. i wouldn't even know what kind of tool i should get. should i send it back to the bike shop i bought the brakes from?

this means that the m8 port of the slave can take both, the barb and the shroud&olive? yes! was planning to do just that.

electrical tape is a good idea! i was planning on getting a hose splitter and rout the cable on the inside of the seat stays, fixing them with some cable binders. and also get a brake booster. is there any reason the m8 barbed fittings aren't available to buy anywhere?

i've ripped out the brake cable of my 2014 hs33 a few times now, so i had to fix the hosing. my brake came with 3 barbed fittings on the slaves (shroud nut and olive on the lever) - 2x m8, 1x m6. without giving it much thought, i've just hammered the old barbs into the new hose. is there anything wrong with that? maybe even dangerous? also, i wanted to order some spares because i don't want to be left with a non-working brake. i can't find m8 barbed fittings anywhere. am i supposed to use shrouds and olives instead? thanks

i keep ripping out my brake cables with my foot. now i've successfully rounded off the plastic bleed screw of my 2014 hs33 lever while refilling the brake for the second time in three days! maybe not my worst, but definitely top 5. (yes, i've read the warnings and i did try to be careful. but even that was too much)

thanks for all the help. i finally went with the "f**k it" - option: only used it for a few minutes so far, but really happy with it. feels completely different to the fourplay and even some moves immediately felt more comfortable. some observations: that 25/16 gearing only works by a hairbreadth - the problem is not the chainring (there's lots of room for more), but the chain passes the magura mounts only by a millimeter or two. same thing with the crank and the magura slaves on the non-drive side. had to use three washers to the it far enough away. all in all i almost stayed within budget. did re-use the bars, brakes, cranks, bottom bracket and headset from the fourplay though. the price of all the new stuff was almost identical to the cost of the radix and a new rim for the rear and two or three small parts.