Hobnobs

Its lovely, very bmx-like, apart from the forks, which ruin the whole look!

I dunno bout marks, but mine is out with my 127.5mm BB, you can see the chain changing direction when it gets to the cog at the back :blink:

It will be fine, if its the same as i have (128mm)

Obviously thought it might be a good idea to take is easy..... or not. The riding was still amazing, i dont see how u manage any of it with a hand like that!

Mine wooo! Had to go in for modules at 9, only lasted 30 mins though!

Well ideally i want to get my rim as smooth as possible, so i might try ye olde elbow grease and sandpaper. If only pads were cheaper! I would love to get my hands on heatsinks, and grind my rim again, but hes stopped making them :turned:

You recon? Damn, i dont really wanna shell out cash for a new rim. Anyone else had this experience from their rims? Also, how many grinds can a run of the mill onza rim ( the dx32 one, i think) take before it gets really weak?

What about the life on the zoo pads, they sound very good, but ive heard they wear down in seconds. At the moment, i have a pretty dead grind, but would i be better off if i sanded it down as much as i could because i would be very happy if these pads lasted me 6 months..... (is that asking too much?)

Alright, so my koxx yellows have suddenly gone uber crap, for no apparent reason. They havent got loads of pad left so i thought i would get some new ones. But i am spoilt for choice. I do NOT want to run a grind, as i really just cant be arsed, i know it makes it loads better, but i want a reliable brake without one. I want pads which will last quite a while, but to be honest, i doubt any pad will wear greatly on a smooth rim. I dont manual, so i want BITE and LOCK, modulation would just be a bonus! So choose the pad which you think would be best for my situation! As they are all between 10-18 quid, price doesnt matter. Fil. P.S sorry if this has been posted, i just need help for my specific situation.

Well if its simple as that, then great. What a waste of a topic. :(" Cheers. Can be locked now!

I was wondering if anyone knew if the new heatsink V pads would be able to run on a bmx brake, as a mate of mine would like to try some decent pads. I think bongo runs crv's on his evolver brake, so i thought it might work, but would like to check before he spends money. As i have never used v brakes i dont know how the pads are secured, so if anyone knows whether they will work on the crappy u style brakes it would be greatly helpfull. Cheers, Fil.

That does look very nice, but is it really strong enough? The owner of my LBS was blabbering on about bamboo spokes, and seemed sure that they were lighter and stronger than aluminium...?

Doesn't the frames come with a headset? IMO, a £400 frame is worth it. Im sure theres a reason why the cheaper frames are cheaper, and not just because the companies are nice. If the t-pro is a copy of the the levelboss, then how come levelboss's dont snap after 4 months? The cheapness comes at a price.

Edit: *Being retarded. * Poothons dont use internal headsets, so you might as well sell/give it to him :closedeyes:

Rick, stop talking out your bottom, my ENO is fine, as is guys, You have only had your profile a month, so you cant really compare life from that. Never skipped? It skipped all the time you willy. Anyway, back on subject, ENO's are good but profile is the better option, as it will last longer.

In BMX it can engage too fast for rollbacks, or so i read in an article, because it doesnt give you time to start pedalling backwards before it engages, therefore throwing you off the back of the bike.

Yep, theres some pictures of the internals on the ck website if u still wanna see them.

They work on exactly the same principal as any other chris king i assume, so 72 engagement points.

Hey tom, u going to bexhill college? know if your in yet? Woop, hopefully going to be doing: Physics Maths Photography Film Studies I cant wait, will be great if i get into all my subjects, damn the college being a million times over subscribed.

He's even drilled the forks :)" If someone could shack it in 5 hours or so.... :(

When i changed to echo teams, my wheelbase shrunk if anything, although it may not be the best measuring ever. They definitly feel a lot nicer, and do have more rake, but i think the t-pro forks (although straight) point forwards more, if you get me. Yeah, as above, they are lower, so i guess could feel a bit longer, but then instead of getting new forks, you could just take a few spacers out?

When you look in your school bag to see if you have enough water to bed your disc in... Yes, i did get laughed at.

Looked like a good ride, a pretty nice vid. Although the filming could have been a bit better, i still enjoyed it! :P

Well the burning seems to have worked quite well, do i have to bed the pads in again? They seemed to work good straight off. :P But i didnt realise red hot pads make big burn marks on worktops and make very bad smells, woops. :P" How hot does the rotor have to get before the pads get fookered?

Hey lads, i've tried the search, but couldn't find what i wanted really. Anyway, earlier today, i thought woop, lets clean the bike, so off i went with my trusty fairly liquid etc etc. Now, i didn't think that putting fairy liquid on my avid rotor would really cause any problems, but as soon as i tried the brake, it was poo! and stayed that way. So i whacked the pads out, and they looked a bit glazed (not that i know what that looks like, they were kinda shiny?) so i sanded them down. I remembered reading on here, that if you did that you'd have to bed them in again, so i put some muddy water on there, but still after a while, it doesn't have any bite!! and sort of makes a vibratey noise, but not high pitched at all. Would fairly liquid screw it? Or has anyone got any ideas what might be wrong? Oh yeah, and is there anyway to get a tiny little bend out of my rotor? I think someone sabotaged it, as i've never hit it! It makes a really annoying tingy noise. Fil.