Bottleneck

There was a certain amount of Magura HS11 2011 levers that cracked after even small impacts. Not first-hand experience, but I had 3 friends who had these levers crack in exactly the same places. But from what I heard, when the guys at Magura realised the problem, the new dispatch was improved and this issue was fixed

You might consider ordering a complete bike from Tarty Bikes or something (@Adam Read, some free advertising for you ), they have very good delivery services unless you're from Russia (which is not their fault, granted). Since you say you don't know much about trials I guess any decent bike will do for starters. An expensive one will be kind of pointless because you might not feel the difference between it and a cheaper bike just because you don't really know what to expect from a trials bike. Alternatively check out the For Sale section of this forum, you might find someone willing to ship their ride to you! Anyways, best of luck, you chose the right sport mate!

What kind of bad encounters were they? As long as you have good pads, a decent grind and nothing is leaking, hydraulic rim breaks are rather reliable imo I am currently running three sets of rather old Maggie HS11 levers and the matching slaves, and though this isn't the newest or lightest setup, I don't even want to think of anything else for their place you can get for the same price

Vašek Kolar has a precedent of riding a mod with a seat. He might like this idea being brought to light. Or not, he seems rather happy with his Monty

It took me (quite) a few dents on the chainstay and scuffs on the dropout to learn not to panic and put my foot down before the rear wheel landed onto the wall when trying higher sidehops. But hey, there are chainstay protectors, thank god

Not sure if this has already been pointed out, but your sidehop here is way higher than the wall you're jumping onto. It might be just a matter of being used to the thing, but if you learn to sidehop without extra space between you and the wall, you'll be able to cover higher walls with the same side hop. I know it's kinda obvious but I really found this useful, not only for height but also for balance on the obstacle once you jump onto it, especially if it's a plank or a log

I've had two pairs of five-ten Freerider shoes, the first lasted over a year and the second I've had for 8 months or so. Super comfortable and rater casual-looking (I currently have the purple ones), and the grip leaves no reason to complain either. I've tested their toe protection level by kicking walls as hard as I could (yes, side hops get me very frustrated at times :D) and they probably saved me from a few fractures as well. The only two issues I found with them are 1. they seem to be ripping in the middle of the inner side on my right foot (that would be my front foot), probably from all the crank bites, and 2. they are rather expensive, this purple pair I got cost me about 100 bucks with a 30% discount, though I bought them in Switzerland where everything is expensive to be honest. But if the latter is not a problem, totally recommend them!

Don't take it personally, nicoj, the guy was kidding (or trolling).

I haven't yet tried the 26" version, but I ran a pair on my mod (before the frame snapped, whoops). The front one really isn't far from an average condom when it comes to thickness, and it takes close to nothing to get a puncture. Its wear rate was also highly disappointing, especially for the rather steep price. The rear one, though, I was super happy with. 2.6" profile gives a great volume, and together with very good ability to fold it gives you this great bounciness and pop. Grip is superb, even on 40º off-camber. It outlived both the front monty pro race and a front creepy crawler together, so it is totally worth the price. I hope all of this relates to the 26" versions as well, but then again it didn't with try-all tyres. The rear ones are superb on mods but average (imo) on stocks.

I wish I could make something decent with my hands! My abilities, as far as bike parts are concerned, end at grinding rims and trimming down handlebars I bet if I try to weld something it will end up in self-incineration, or worse. I think I'll stick with properly made parts, just to be sure I don't spend more time in hospitals than I absolutely have to!

Thanks for the replies! I've heard very good things about this welder guy, from what I know the frames and forks that he welded never cracked at the same place, but I guess I'll go for a new frame, just to be sure. I don't want to be scraping my balls off the stem if the down tube snaps

Evening all, I really cracked on with the riding today *ahem* please excuse the pun. My Echo Lite frame cracked at the bash plate mount almost all the way around the down tube so there is only 1/6 of the tube or so holding on. What do you advice - wield it, or get a new frame? Cheers, Ivan

I did it with my Echo TR brakes (though idk if it makes any difference), and they weren't leaking more than before, with proper oil, the one that was already in the brakes as supplied by Tarty. Is it just that these levers are crap? I've had four, and all of them started leaking like three months after the first use

I've tried using power steering fluid, but my chemistry teacher told me it had some solvents in it, so would this somehow damage the brakes? Also, as I sometimes ride in winter (Not just any winter but the famous Russian winter aka easily -25ºC) I was recommended to add some antifreeze to the oil. Again, is that somehow bad?

Do you think it's worth running a hollyroller on the front of a comp type of bike, not a street one? Isn't it a bit wide and heavy?

Evening guys, I am looking for a replacement for my old and quite worn Kenda Small Block Eight. It's an Echo Trials 24" bike, and the rim is Echo 2015. I'd much prefer something more durable as this one wears really quick. No price range, as long as it is worth the money Cheers, Ivan

I thought I'd post it here because why not. To be honest I'm quite proud of the editing here taking it was all done on an iPhone

On my stock and the 24" I found that the bars tilted way forward don't give me any problems with pedal ups at all, I have about the same height as on the mod but the bars are something like what Hermance has. On the mod I put the bars back up compared to what I used to have some time before. Bunny hops are obviously much easier this way, but my up to fronts now suffer a little. Maybe I'm just shite at them?

Ok here's a clip from yesterday, my third day of bunny hopping. I'm not hopeless I guess? IMG_0279.MOV

Maybe you guys could give me some advice on how to get higher? Is it the usual stuff, preloading and tucking? Or are there any more little secrets? (I can't upload the videos as they seem to be too big ) I can do a little over one meter either way (bunny hop or pedal up) after a good warm up, but of course it's not the upper limit

Right! Should have figured it out...

Thanks mate, this makes sense to me. I found that after only two days of practicing bunnyhops I can jump almost as high as I did after doing pedal ups for two years, this must mean something! Also, nice photo! Is that the same front tyre + fork as Flipp runs? Why the booster fork if you don't have maggie?

For those who ride mods, can someone explain the differences between a bunnyhop to rear and a pedal up to rear? Not in terms of what they are but, say, why a lot of the top riders like Benito Ros choose bunnyhops over pedal ups, why they seem to allow higher jumps, etc? I couldn't find anything on the subject on this forum, but I can't be the only one wondering, right? Or are mod riders going extinct?

It's a shame! I went for a ride with Mikhail about a month ago, he still seems in a good shape though!

This is so much better than last year! Also, who won the elite 26"? Really curious how Sukhanov did this time