Rip

Thanks again for the detailed info. I did actually fit the valve how you described above, I guess the cone of the valve maybe enlarged the hole after installation possibly. The lack of sealant definitely bothers me, especially as I was charged extra at the bike shop because they "kept filling it with sealant until no more would go in". I'll be doing the sealant myself next time so I'll know exactly how much has gone in and maybe I'll also go with proper tubeless tape rather than Gorilla tape, something about the Gorilla tape just doesn't sit well with me, it also leaves lots of glue residue on the rim after removal which is really hard to get off which is something I'll have to do before applying proper tape I guess. Maybe I also need to do what others have suggested and put an inner tube in the wheel after installing the tape and leave it pumped for 24hrs or so to really compress the tape into place. Although that would leave a Schrader valve size hole in the tape afterwards but I also think I might actually use Schrader tubeless valves anyway so that wouldn't matter too much. I think it might also pay to let the tyres seal without the Rimpacts in and then install them afterwards. My biggest unanswered questions so far are exactly how wide I need this tape to be? Some people have suggested that full width tape can help the tyre bead pop up into the rim but I'm wondering if on such a tight fitting tyre the tape is actually hindering that process instead. And probably an even bigger mystery to me is why the beads won't pop on properly, I've now tried narrower tape, wider tape, soapy water on the bead and various inflation devices and no combination of those things have resulted in the beads getting seated properly, and like in the photos below the tyres are visibly just not fitting right which results in the wheels looking buckled when spinning and quite a lot of imbalance: This definitely bothers me as it's just not right, last time I used narrower tape and lube on the bead the bead blew off the rim completely rather than seating properly and that was just with a canister type track pump so something seems very wrong about that. They are exactly the same even when using inner tubes, it's like the tyre bead diameters are just too small for the rim diameters so the beads simply cannot go where they need to go. While on the subject of the tyres, why does it say 'moped' on my tyre?

It's official, the plug has been pulled on Tubeless V2. Upon disassembly I can see that the bike shop didn't put much sealant in there so maybe that wasn't helping, from what I can see the Rimpact does not soak it up (good thing), at least when I hosee them off no sealant came out of them. And there was nothing that looked to be of any concern around the valves so not sure why they were leaking? Tubeless V3 will commence in the Winter so for now it's down to these tubes and a load of Baby Powder:

Mine definitely go completely flat overnight which I guess is down to the beads never really popping into place and the leaks around the valves.

Yes that's what I've read online also, I've done about 3hrs riding and they still go down over night so I don't know if more riding will sort it or not.

That makes sense then, I've got some of those tubes now so I'll stick them in until my Tubeless V3 attempt.

Thanks for the tip, and I'll look forward to this week's video even more then I'm determined to earn the right to stick my Rimpact stickers on my bike at some point!

Interesting.

I'm calling it a fail for now, again. Since being filled with Stans sealant they've been pumped up about 40 times, shaken, spun and tipped at all sorts of angles and ridden on for about 3hrs total (a mixture of normal riding and all manor of hopping about) and they still both go completely flat over night. Even though the beads never seated properly they can still be initially pumped up with a normal track pump and do hole air for a number of hours but they are clearly slowly leaking around the valves and also somewhat through the tyre walls, if it was just the tyre walls I'd probably preserve with it a bit longer as they should eventually seal up after more riding but I feel like I'm fighting a losing battle with the leaks around the valves. I'll revisit this again in the winter with another set of new tyres and probably get the carcasses sealed up fully before installing the Rimpact inserts as convinced they are hindering the sealing process somewhat. In the meantime I'd like to find some Schrader tubeless valves that would work nicely with tyre inserts if anyone knows of any? None of the ones I've seen have any kind of cross drilled hole at the bottom or any kid of protrusion that will stop the foam insert from from blocking the valve. The Rimpact valves have a hole drilled across the end to allow the air to come out sideways and I reckon if I just used any old Schrader tubeless valve I'd have trouble getting air in. If I can't find any then I'll have to come up with a device that keeps the insert away or cut a notch out of it. Also, I notice a lot of the 20" mod boys you see on YouTube don't run Tubeless yet somehow also manage big drop gaps to super sharp edges without getting punctures, how?

Yes thank you I did figure out Magura's coding system a while back and I have been searching for 9.S already but came up empty. I guess it's not the end of the world if I have to go with the 8.S fitment for now, it'll still allow me to test them out just fine.

Looks like maybe these sport pads are only available in the 4x smaller pad fitment type rather than the 2x bigger pads. Like others I've found the 2x larger pads to have much less (pretty much none) pad rock. Maybe I'll get a set anyway and see how they are.

Thank you. Well I run the Comfort sissy pads at the minute and even they are performance enough for my current level of riding, I just think it would be nice to have a tiny bit more bite in the rear just in case I need it as I'm sure I've felt the rear slip a little when landing some higher (for me) drops or 'ups' to back wheel. So far I've found their graph to be pretty good, but I've only tried the Performance and Comfort pads and have only really tested the Bite and Noise aspects of them (the Comfort pads really are comfortable, completely silent and smooth modulation). So, can you actually buy these Green Sport pads anywhere on their own do you know? Surely they must be available as a spare/consumable part otherwise you'd be buying whole new brake setups when your pads wear out, mind you your levers probably would have either worn away or exploded by the time your pads have worn out anyway

So, front wheel definitely has a leak around the valve, no idea why because I've tried finger tight, spanner tight (nipped up) and everything in between. and both wheels seem to be leaking through the tyre carcasses themselves, the tiny bubbles reappear after wiping them away. So, obviously the one with the leak around the valve needs a complete do-over. Is it worth painting tyre sealant (or some other flexible type sealant) around the inside of the tyre carcass and letting it dry a little before installation? And not sure about the other one, I'm wondering if the sealant can't get around to everywhere to seal the tyre carcass because the Rimpact insert is in the way, maybe I need to take the Rimpact insert out and set the whole thing up giving the sealant the room it needs to do its job while riding the bike (i know rising is the key part here because the sealant has to be flung everywhere as the tyre is flexing about, just wondering if the Rimpact is hindering this process), then make sure it's not leaking and THEN disassemble it all again and stick the insert back in? I'll stick a tube back in the front as that ones terminal because of the leak around the valve and I'll keep riding the bike as much as I can and hope the Stans will eventually seal the tyre carcass which it should do given enough time, after all it's designed to seal bigger holes quickly not microscopic holes. If that doesn't work for any reason then I think I may have to call this another fail for now because it's the time of year where I want the bike useable at any given time due to the weather so maybe this needs doing over the Winter with yet another set of new tyres, a big ol' tub of sealant and a lot more crappy weather. Noticed here that Duncan Shaw uses the Continental CompactWide inner tubes apparently, either that info is incorrect, he gets a lot of punctures or those tubes are pretty decent so maybe I'll just stick those in for the remainder of this years riding season.

Noticed Magura now has some Green Sport disc brake pads that seem to be oriented for e-bikes but looking at the chart below they sit between the Blue Comfort pads and the Grey Performance pads with regards to Bite. I currently use the Blue Comfort pads in my MT7's as I can actually modulate them which is something I have trouble with with the Grey Performance pads so I would like to try these Green Sport pads out. The only problem being I can't seem to find anywhere that sells the pads on their own, they either seem to come bundled with Magura's MT5 eStop calipers or as part of an e-bike upgrade kit which comprises of discs and pads to upgrade your existing MT brakes to be more suitable for e-bike use; So, two questions: 1. Do these Green Sport pads have to be used with accompanying eSTOP discs? 2. Can you actually buy just the Green Sport pads anywhere in MT5 fitment?

That's what I found when doing a quick search, seems like a more robust option to me for schrader drilled rims.

Well this probably isn't the best sign, bit of sealant around one of spoke nipples. It appeared after bouncing the bike against the ground a few times in the garage so that shows sealant is being thrown around all over the place at least.

In fact weren't Inspired going to release a tubless kit? Reference here, also another example of Inspired rims and Conti tyres successfully running tubless: Also, quick thought, maybe I'd have better luck with Schrader tubless valves? they'll fit the hole in my rim better and once the core is out I've got a bigger hole to blast air through which may help seat the tyre beads.

The rain is supposed to hold off tomorrow so I'll ba able to actually ride the bike properly so hopefully that'll help. So, I wonder why Inspired don't make their rims tubeless compatible and same for Continental and their Macaskill tyres? Seems a bit odd really as the Fourplay Team comes with Macaskill tyres and tubless is such a handy mod for street trials.

Thanks, I'll get some water on them and see if I can see any sidewall action. I'm hopeful the rear will sort itself out but the front is definitely leaking around the valve, I guess there is a chance the sealant will eventually take care of that as well.

The rear seems to be holding up short term, no visible leaks and only seems to go down overnight but the front is leaking past the valve I'm sure of it, no visible leaks anywhere but I can hear it near the valve for sure. I'll persevere with the rear by keeping high pressure in it in the hope it'll eventually seal and maybe I'll be able to disassemble the front and salvage the sealant that's in it and try to fix the valve leak. The rear is the most important one regarding having a tubeless setup so if that one pulls through then it's not the end of the world if I have to put a tube back in the front.

It has Stans in it at the minute but I mean I have no more sealant to hand so I can't start again. The bike shop put a load in yesterday but I don't have any of my own currently.

Ah I must have missed that then. I can hear air slowly getting past the valve on the front wheel but not much I can do about it because I don't have any sealant so I can't take the tyre off.

Damn it lol, that's a bit of info that has evaded me so far.

Ah, do you mean up the side of the rim? Then no, didn't really think about that.

Rim join? I've taped the rim all the way around with a few inches overlap. Maybe all isn't lost then just yet, I'll keep pumping them up and try to keep them moving and see what happens.