Rip

Cheers buddy, I might just do that then. Hopefully they are neoprene free.

I need to find some shin pads that do not have any neoprene in them (I have a strange allergy to a chemical in neoprene that gives me dermatitis), those Shadow Invisa-lite ones don't seem to mention neoprene so I might be ok with those. My question is, what size? Their size chart kind of indicates that they take their measurement just below the knee and not the widest part of the calf (see below), is that right? My calf is 42cm at it's widest and the part just below my knee is 33cm so not sure whether to order Medium or Large?

I may be bending the rules here and taking the word 'bike' a bit literally... Trek Fuel (now has riser bars and Rockshox dropper post) Honda Grom (don't judge, it's so much fun) Yamaha MT09 (849cc Triple) Yamaha WR450F Supermoto (I actually no longer own this one but worth a mention as it was awesome) Azonic DS-1 (This is a replica I built of my do-it-all street/trials bike I learned trials on while growing up, sold for parts a couple of years ago)

I seem to remember on one of Ali's recent Instagram Q&A stories he said he's ran 2 different compound brake pads in the same caliper before, now I may have dreamt it but it does seem like something he would try. I've only recently really got back into trials so I put the Magura Comfort pads in my MT7's because they give me much more feel than the standard Performance pads, so far they are working great, good feel (good for saving manuals) and good power (enough for my current level of riding anyway), plus they are silent. I'd like to transition back to Performance pads (at least on the rear brake) just in case I need the extra bite at some point, it might save me from hurting myself. So I was thinking of starting by running the rear brake with one of each pad compound hoping it would be some kind of middle ground between the two, allowing me to still save those manuals but with some extra bite. Anyone else done or do this, if so, thoughts? Does it even make sense? Does it feel like a middle ground? Do I dream about Ali's Instagram stories?

+1 for putting Arcade/Team bars on the Fourplay Pro, the Fourplay Team feels so much nicer with them on.

The info was for a friend but I actually prefer the MT5 style pads in my MT7's as they dont have as much pad rock as the 4x pads do.

Figured it out. So for anyone who isn't sure, the MT Trial Sport brake set is just 1x MT4 caliper and 1x MT5 caliper so: MT4 Caliper = Fitment 7 MT5 Caliper = Fitment 9

Anyone know what pads fit the MT Trail Sport calipers? (4-pot and 2-pot) I can't seem to find the info anywhere online.

Tatty Bikes sell chain offcuts for cheap: https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/chains/kmc_chain_offcut/c7p11761.html?pos=0&search_params=YTo3OntzOjEyOiJjYXRlZ29yeV9pZHMiO2E6MTp7aTowO3M6MToiNyI7fXM6MTY6ImNhdGVnb3J5X3JlY3Vyc2UiO2I6MTtzOjg6ImtleXdvcmRzIjtzOjA6IiI7czo5OiJicmFuZF9pZHMiO047czo0OiJtb2RlIjtzOjM6ImFsbCI7czo0OiJzb3J0IjtzOjk6InByaWNlX2FzYyI7czoxMDoiY291bnRyeV9pZCI7czoxOiIxIjt9

Nice

That was my second choice if I couldn't get my TSG. I used to have Pro-Tecs back in my BMX days.

I use a TSG Skate/BMX helmet when I'm on my Street Trials bike, decent quality IMO: https://www.sourcebmx.com/products/tsg-skate-bmx-injected-helmet

I never stopped wearing baggy jeans lol I wear these now: https://www.routeone.co.uk/products/route-one-baggy-denim-jeans-mid-wash Trying to find men's jeans nowadays that don't resemble girls jeans is actually quite hard.

I was 16/17 when Chainspotting came out so it was what I grew up watching while riding trials on the street. I even copied the whole audio from my VHS to a cassette so I could listen to all the music while riding on my Panasonic walkman, it was just a straight rip so it had all the dialogue as well lol I have it on DVD now so about once a year I watch it.

Word of warning, if you do buy one of these be aware that although they are adjustable (via a hex inside that's visible once you unscrew the endcap), there is no scale on them so you don't know what you have set it to. Fortunately as I bought mine second hand it was already set and calibrated to 0.4nm which I've tested on my EBT screws and it seems perfect, in fact it would seem that all my screws were probably set to around only 3.0 or 3.5nm as they all nipped up a tiny bit when I used this tool so as they didn't leak before they most definitely shouldn't leak now and they didn't strip either so I'm more than happy having mine set to 0.4nm. The only real way to set them is using a torque calibration tool which I imagine is expensive although most people know someone who works in engineering or could find an engineering place nearby so getting it initially set to 0.5nm may not be that much of a problem and once its done its done and as the adjustment is done internally it's unlikely to unset itself without you knowing. TL:DR Great tool, but needs setting once initially before use.

The bottom half of this page gets pretty scientific about ideal lever position: http://www.magura.com/en/components/customize/setup-guide/

Ah I see :-)

I always thought that was a bunny tap.

Thanks, I've had one of my screws in and out a few times and it just felt a bit vague so figure better safe than sorry.

Found these on eBay today, seller only has 2 left now after myself and a mate each bought one, he has 'Make Offer' enabled and accepted offers for just £25 each including postage for the two that we just bought. The other solutions I found that would do 0.5nm are upwards of £40 + p&p so worth making an offer on one if you're after one. I found the plastic EBT screw felt very mushy when wound into the carbotecture (soft cheese) so it's very hard to know if you've under/over tightened it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154179136059

Glad I saw this thread because although my chain on my '19 Fourplay is a bit longer so the sprocket sits lower the actual sprocket and chain alignment looks just like yours, ie: it looks a bit off. As I bought my bike second hand I assumed the tensioner was a bit bent but as yours is the same then mines probably also fine.

What the hell is going on, thought I had it seated, and saw some tiny air leaks in tyre wall, so filled with sealant, and now every time I try to inflate to seat again the tyre blows of the rim!!!! Sealant everywhere, all over my brake rotor, hosed it all off but I hope it hasn't contaminated my rotor. At this point I'm done with it. I might take my wheels to my LBS but what's the point in having a system that you can't deal with at home as I'll need to change the sealant every 6 months. My only hope would be that they spot something I haven't and are able to relay a working method to me so I can service them myself.

Well, still no joy, taped the whole width of the rim, still not seating beads. No popping, soap still shows leaking air past the beads. That's with the valve core removed (have to hold the pump head on the valve stem by hand) and a 160psi blast. I'm all out of ideas as I'm pretty sure at this point I've done everything I should have done.

Nice one, might be worth a look as well then if I still can't get the beads seated after making my tape wider.