Rip

What made you switch back?

I've actually watched that already, thank you. It's a good video for showing the process and the bleed. Just need to know which levers would be best for me.

I'm in the early planning stages of switching my Magura levers to Shimano levers, I've not had much experience with Shimano levers so I don't really have any idea which ones would work best with MT7 calipers. From my limited knowledge I've narrowed it down to: Shimano Zee (Servo Wave) (Not sure what year/model number) Shimano XT (Servo Wave) (Not sure what year/model number) The Only things I'm really bothered about apart from the increased durability over the Magura levers is ease of bleeding, decent modulation (hence the interest in Servo Wave) and more importantly some adjustment because I need the bite point where I like it. Also am I correct in assuming the following is needed for a Shigura setup: Hoses = Magura Barbs = Shimano (specific to the lever) Olives = Magura Oil = Shimano Mineral or Royal Blood

I forgot to say in my OP that I did actually try the bedding in process with them again using water and it didn't seem to help. Hopefully it's sorted now anyway, fingers crossed. I hate noisy brakes!

Glad you've sorted it, I should have another crack at my MT7s soon but it's always a messy faff and very hit and miss as to whether it works so it's not a fun job. I'm always so paranoid about getting brake fluid on the rotors and pads as well so I usually take them off and put them in another room. I had to switch to Magura Comfort pads after my Performance pads bedded in because I went over the bars at least once every time I took the bike out! Far too much initial bite for me! Now I'm a bit more used to them I might try Maguras green eStop pads as they seem to sit in between Comfort pads and Performance pads on the Bite section of their graphs.

Think I may have 'fixed' it. I swapped the front and rear pads with eachother and it seems to have gone away. Bit weird and a bit annoying that I don't know what caused it but I'll take it for now. Now have a spongy rear brake due to the Gorilla tape so we'll see how that pans out.

Just to add I just put some gorilla tape on the back of my pads to see if that would create a damping effect but it made no difference. In fact adding the tape has made my brake feel spongy so if that doesn't go away after the tapes been squashed a bit more during use then I'll be taking it off again.

Had the rotors and pads a while (few months), all bedded in nicely and both the front and back work absolutely fine, lots of holding power, no contamination etc but the front has developed a honk seemingly out of nowhere. It honks when the brake is partially on (anything from 10% power to 60% power) and goes quiet again when more pressure is applied. I can feel vibration in the rotor while it's honking which goes quiet if I touch it. For reference the rear brake is completely silent and has the exact same setup as the front (MT7 Calipers, HC Storm Rotors and Magura MT5 style Blue Comfort Pads) and the front was also fine up until recently so it's not just a case of the kit I have will honk and that's it, I know they can run silently (like the rear one does) so something is causing it. Rotor is true, caliper alignment over the rotor seems good and as far as I can see the pads are not rubbing as the wheel spins freely. I've also made sure the caliper mounting bolts and rotor mounting bolts are tight. Any ideas or tips and tricks to rid me of the honk?

The i9 is definitely in a different price bracket to the Pro4 so it's not direct competition imo

I made a power bleeder (adapted a car specific one to suit the bike) for the brakes on my old moto trials bike a few years back that connects to the front tyre valve (to give you pressure) and forces the fluid down through the system where you bleed it it off at the caliper. It turned out to be very good because it always worked, it kept the whole system under pressure while you flicked the brake lever and shook the hoses about to release any trapped air bubbles.

You probably know this already but Tarty's bedding in (pads and rotors) guide works perfectly: https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/documents/TartyBikes-Disc-Guide-Separate.pdf

Any secret tips for parking for the day that doesn't cost 3 million quid?

Haha well I'm leaving them alone for now as they work perfectly when they are the right side up lol

Those pictures are very handy. Mine are fine for the most part but the lever will go to the bar a couple of times after the bike has been upside down, after a couple of pulls they are perfect again.

Oh lol, hopefully you've already sorted it then :-)

Try doing Maguras 'fast bleed', I tried to bleed one of my MT7s a while back after routing the hose through the steerer tube but couldn't quite get it right until I did a fast bleed as per this video: https://youtu.be/RtqwQB8wtYQ Worth a shot as it only takes a minute, mine was perfect afterwards.

Perfect thank you, that's more than enough to get us started for sure. We don't live too far away (Stroud/Gloucester area) so we'll definitely be back regular for some off piste exploration

I'm heading to Bristol city centre in a few weeks with a mate of mine so it would be handy to know of some spots ahead of time so we don't waste too much time scouting. We're both on street trials bikes and can only up-to-back wheel comfortably about 2 foot high so we're after some 40 year old born again trials rider friendly locations if anyone knows of any?

This might be why I have a complex about the hole sizes in my rims. See how the locknut on a Schrader valve actually disappear into the hole That locknut is has a 10.5mm diameter and comfortably rattles about in the hole so the hole must be at least 11.0mm diameter which makes my 5.8mm diameter tubeless presta valves an extremely lose fit. (Yes I know technically it doesn't matter). For obvious reasons I didn't wind it in any more but it will probably eventually rattle its way down there at some point anyway.

Nice video! And nice bike! Appreciate the more in-depth info on your tubeless set up Looking forward to seeing some riding on it.

I'm saving it for the morning so no I haven't yet, looking forward to it though.

lol, it just annoyed me that they moved when I touched them even very lightly, probably not an issue though like you say. I definitely had a leak around one of the valves...

Maybe I've just been unlucky so far with my tyres then as that's 4 I've had now that won't seat. The only reason I mentioned Schrader valves is because the presta ones move around an awful lot in the larger hole when done up to the recommended finger tightness (and also when nipped up a bit tighter too) but I guess that doesn't matter too much as long as they seal, I'm an engineer so I like things locked in place if they aren't supposed to move

Interesting info about that 'shelfs' diameter, that makes total sense as to why I'm having trouble. Maybe these tyres just will not fit these rims properly no matter what, I wonder if my bike (Team edition) left the factory with the tyres actually perfectly fitted all the way round as it would have come with the same tyres (assuming the tyres are actually fitted at the factory and not at dealers). I definitely had the valve cores removed when trying to seat the beads and apparently so did the bike shop but neither of us were successful. Next time I'll try tape just across the well in the rim again then so I'm not increasing the rims shelf diameter any more, fit some Schrader tubeless valves or at least some rim hole adapters and apply a lesser amount of soapy water to the beads and of course I'll be in control of exactly how much sealant goes in, Ali C put 140ml of MucOff sealant in during one of his videos about tubeless inserts so I guess I'll go for about the same amount.

Thanks again for the detailed info. I did actually fit the valve how you described above, I guess the cone of the valve maybe enlarged the hole after installation possibly. The lack of sealant definitely bothers me, especially as I was charged extra at the bike shop because they "kept filling it with sealant until no more would go in". I'll be doing the sealant myself next time so I'll know exactly how much has gone in and maybe I'll also go with proper tubeless tape rather than Gorilla tape, something about the Gorilla tape just doesn't sit well with me, it also leaves lots of glue residue on the rim after removal which is really hard to get off which is something I'll have to do before applying proper tape I guess. Maybe I also need to do what others have suggested and put an inner tube in the wheel after installing the tape and leave it pumped for 24hrs or so to really compress the tape into place. Although that would leave a Schrader valve size hole in the tape afterwards but I also think I might actually use Schrader tubeless valves anyway so that wouldn't matter too much. I think it might also pay to let the tyres seal without the Rimpacts in and then install them afterwards. My biggest unanswered questions so far are exactly how wide I need this tape to be? Some people have suggested that full width tape can help the tyre bead pop up into the rim but I'm wondering if on such a tight fitting tyre the tape is actually hindering that process instead. And probably an even bigger mystery to me is why the beads won't pop on properly, I've now tried narrower tape, wider tape, soapy water on the bead and various inflation devices and no combination of those things have resulted in the beads getting seated properly, and like in the photos below the tyres are visibly just not fitting right which results in the wheels looking buckled when spinning and quite a lot of imbalance: This definitely bothers me as it's just not right, last time I used narrower tape and lube on the bead the bead blew off the rim completely rather than seating properly and that was just with a canister type track pump so something seems very wrong about that. They are exactly the same even when using inner tubes, it's like the tyre bead diameters are just too small for the rim diameters so the beads simply cannot go where they need to go. While on the subject of the tyres, why does it say 'moped' on my tyre?