Richie612

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Everything posted by Richie612

  1. You say that like it's a bad thing
  2. Don't just buy one chain mate, get a few at a time as it'll ensure you have a good years supply if everything goes tits up again with supply. Rich
  3. Beefier gives a little more confidence it won't snap
  4. Yes that's the chain you need. How come you ordered from trial.bikes.com and not tartybikes?
  5. I don't know the exact Torque numbers for those 2 bolts but I don't tighten them too much as it doesn't take a lot of load. I tighten mine to 8nm and that does the trick, never come loose. Rich
  6. @Adam@TartyBikes It was the bashring bolts. Tightened them to 8nm and the creak has gone. Legend thank you Rich
  7. As tomorrow is going to be slightly damp and not ideal for trials I'm going to try and find the cause of this damn creaking noise on my Inspired Fourplay. BB Truvativ GXP DUB Cranks Truvativ Descendant 7k DUB Has anyone else had the same trouble? I've tried removing everything, cleaning, re-greasing and assembling but to no avail. Read stories it could be the rear axle or even the chain but as the axle is a bolt through I can't imagine that to be the source. It isn't the pedals either as it's still there when I've tried a different set of pedals. Just a bit disappointing really since my Dads Cheapo Boardman Halfords special hasn't any creaks after 10 years and this Fourplay started creaking like a champion after a few months . Rich
  8. I haven't checked the bashing bolts yet but that'll be first on the list . They'll be first for inspection and clean. What's the recommended torque for tightening them? P.s the Boardman has had it's fair share of abuse on these hills, front forks have had countless seal changes due to being blown . Many thanks Rich Home from work now and just checked your website and it says 7nm. Bit lower than I thought but I'll get the parts off now and try again, this time including the bashring bolts
  9. Are any of you guys good at jumping? What Trials techniques are similar to the correct jumping method? Rich
  10. Spotted these at sports direct and for £14 I gave them a try. Finally a nice super comfy shinguard which are nice and compact and fit nicely under trousers. I'm not a football fan but definitely function really really well for trials. Rich https://www.sportsdirect.com/nike-protegga-football-shinguards-818011#colcode=81801140
  11. I have done exactly the above, creaks disappear for an hour or so then slowly come back which is disheartening. I even nipped up the bottom bracket shells a little more too. The crank bolt does take a bit of muscle to get to torque but I guess that's due to the design of just one bolt holding the whole thing together. In the future I'd like to change to a different design of Bb and crank but a bit unsure of which ones to go for since this Sram dub setup isn't very user friendly for me. Rich
  12. Creaks can travel along the whole bike since all the metal parts are linked together. The creak might originate in one spot and be heard somewhere different. Rich
  13. Have you put pedal washers between your pedals and cranks? Seems a bit of a trivial thing but it helps a lot. Rich
  14. I have creaks from the bottom bracket ( Sram dub ) but you just learn to accept it after a while. No bikes are completely silent mate. Tried everything but sometimes the tolerances in manufacture are just slightly off and end up creaking. Rich
  15. Hello guys another tensioner question . Since taking a link out of the chain so it wasn't as loose I've encountered another issue with the tensioner (Trialtech). The instructions via the Inspired booklet is pretty vague on the adjustment. My issue is when I use the bike for a short while the chain goes slack again. The source of the problem is the spring tension. When I push on the lower jockey wheel so it moves closer to the Chainstay (as you do to remove the chain) there isn't much force applied to the chain when I release the jockey wheel resulting in the chain going slack again. I know the spring tension needs to be increased but I'm buggered on how to do it. Rich
  16. Thanks for your advice Ali, much appreciated. I've enclosed a further diagram with two areas circled. When you say steel rod, I imagine that's a type of stopper so the tensioner reaches a certain limit. Now I've had a tinker with that but it seems to be fixed somehow. Undoing the hex bolt did nothing except loosen the head but the rod stayed in position. Another bolt I've circled which is above the steel rod, what does that do? At first I thought it was some kind of retaining pin or grub screw but again I undid it and it seems to be doing not much at all. Rich
  17. Totally understand Mark and that was my initial observation since I removed a link from the chain, then tried to account for this difference with the tensioner
  18. I'll give this a try mate thank you. Tensioner mounting bracket is a little bent towards the Chainstay from an over ambitious up to rear fail but there's one on order from Tarty. Thanks for your help. Rich
  19. I checked the pinch bolt and it was up to torque and the steel rod was clean and dry just as it was when delivered. Noticed a small crack on the tensioner mount inline with the bolt was a bit odd as it's always tightened using a Teng Tools torque wrench. My issue it seems comes from the mount and not the tensioner itself . Looks like I'll be needing a new tensioner mount, problem solved. Rich
  20. Do these tensioners need re-adjusting quite often? Went out with a nice tight setup for an hour and returned home to find the chain was a bit floppy again . Trialtech tensioner on an Inspired Fourplay. Do these tensioners need replacing often? When the chain is off the movement of the tensioner isn't what I call smooth, it's a bit like there needs to be lubrication there somewhere or the spring is on the way out. I think a replacement may be needed soon, has anyone changed the Trialtech tensioner to something else which holds tension a little better for longer? Rich
  21. Hello guys I've got terrible calluses on both hands since starting trials. I'm sure a few of you guys have had the same issue too. What did you do to solve this? Are foam grips a better option? I currently use the standard grips which came on my Fourplay which are the Lizard Skinz. Rich
  22. So essentially you're saying I need to go to the chemist and ask for some man-up pills . Should have just said that to begin with haha. I'm old enough not to be offended by what people really mean .
  23. Oh I'll keep riding, no problem there mate. I'm sure they will settle down at some point. My gloves are always kept clean and they very rarely get dirty just a bit sweaty. Maybe it's my practice routine of up to front and back that's doing it. Either way I'm going to invest in some softer foam grips. Rich
  24. Both palms are the same and I always wear gloves. They're quite thin 661 ones as I prefer thin gloves because you can feel more.