CurtisRider
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Posts posted by CurtisRider
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Yeah that was my thoughts but the long travel was confusing me! The dirt jumper series seems to have adjusters too, which these don't
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These came with a bike I bought recently but I'm not actually sure which model they are and I was wondering if anybody knew?
- They appear to be Marzocchi judging by the M arch (Suntour built possibly?)
- They have 140m travel
- There are no adjusters top or bottom
- There is a 20mm through axle help on by pinch bolts (The QR bit doesn't look original)
- They weight a ton!
I can't find anything like them spec wise, I wondered if they were a hybrid of parts of others similar forks. Any help would be appreciated, also an indication of value as I don't think i need them as spares!
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On 07/08/2018 at 8:21 AM, Tom Booth said:
Yeah 1k/poly generally doesn't mop, it'll soften up then tear if you get it too warm. Usually just keep ontop of it by hand and compound.
Generally warmth isn't too much of an issue, in my first unit I used to paint in winter around 3/4*c with the fans on and never really had too many issues. Aslong as the chill is out the air you shouldn't have too many issues if your planning on winter time, your biggest problems would come from using 1k products in those conditions, 1k is really suseptable to something called blooming, where it picks up the moisture in the air, the finish then goes a milky matt version of what you originally painted, 2k isn't at all really unless ypur painting in really bad conditions, low temps, damp atmosphere and no air movement, even then I think you'd be unlucky.
Slower drying time usually yields better gloss levels. Alot of people in the trade want to do 3/4 cars a day, so whack drying accelerators in to force dry the products so it's out the booth and the next one in, then they wonder why it's flat as hell in a months time..
Sorry, the wet edge to come back on..
The place you want to start is somewhere small and unnoticeable when the cars reassembled, so door shuts or slam panel etc, getting round a car with a good coating usually takes a good 15mins including your second mix of colour or maybe more. Obviously all the time your first area of paint is drying, the second it leaves the gun the air dry reaction has started. You want to be able to come back to your first area/edge and the paint still be wet enough to absorb your overlaying 1st coat, not the end of the world if it isn't as you can flat and mop this later, but just makes lighter work of the job if it is. So to combat this different speed activators/hardners are available for the job your doing. Panel painting and you'll get away with using an express activator or fast, for bigger jobs where you will need the window open to come back on your first pass, slow and medium hardners are there.
When you come to do the work be mindful of the atmosphere at the time your thinking of painting, if it's cooling off in the evenings use something like a medium activator apposed to slow, if it's later in the year and it's generally cooler all the time you may get away with a fast activator, just depends how quick you are at painting.
Personally I'd just pick up a 3L or 5L 2k primer filler kit in grey, white on white is a dick to try and check for coverage, white generally is under reds, yellows and oranges.
That one kit will do all you need really. Treat it as a filler primer on your repairs so if you have a gun with a big enough nozzle, use it neat to get a good build on there. Once your repairs are dressed and ready and you feel happy just shoot any other primer areas with 10-15% thinner in your high build and it'll just act as a good primer for you to lay your top coat onto.
You mention colour coat then lacquer.. Personally I'd just shoot the car in 2k solid, mix your colour with activator, shoot 2 coats and job done.
Whites in basecoat and lacquer are hard work, they show up any dirt in your basecoat, any that's been picked up in your lacquer and generally just make hard work of it. 2k solid colour is just easier for pale colours, any dust nibs are coloured over and can be flatted out alot easier. Plus no lacquer to worry about so keeps the job cheaper.
Link to the mask doesn't work for me but I recognise the part number. Yeah anything devilbiss is usually a good shout. I use a battery powered 3M versaflow up at work and it's fantastic, best thing I've ever bought but it works all day everyday so it's justified I guess. The devilbiss finishline range is good stuff for home use, nice and cheap as they're abit no frills, but still passed all H&S testing, plus full parts support is always nice to have.
Brilliant, thanks for taking your time to advise me Tom! This is all starting to make sense now.
Looks like I'll go 2k primer and top coat and leave it at that, I'm not expecting show room finish as I'm still an amateur but anything will be better than this shite paint thats on it now! I'm not sure when I'll be doing the spraying yet, I think it'll be February at the earliest as I have lots of other issues on the car to sort that I can faff around with over winter.I may be hassling you nearer the time, I hope you don't mind!
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9 hours ago, Tom Booth said:
PAINT TEAM... ASSEMBLE!
Ok, your first decision as you just said is single pack or 2k. Personally I wouldn't use single pack on my shed door, the effort and time you'll put in flatting and getting your panels right will just be wasted in 6 months time with a totally flat dull finish.
If you keep ontop of single pack with the polish then it'll stay bright, but it's alot of work when using a better product in the first place is a simpler answer. Your other option I guess is 1k poly/synthetic. Designed as a crude agricultural product, it'll do the job and is abit stronger then cellulose, but comes with it's inherent problems like super slow drying, you can't machine polish it as it'll wake up and soften again.
With 2K, the only real addition is your hardner, so the mixture is pretty straight forward. Don't use too faster hardner, in this weather your really gonna want to be using a slow/medium hardner, in winter you could probably get away with a fast. You want a wet edge to coke back to on your coats, so as you come back around your not painting and trying to get the wet fresh back into already drying paint.
Make sure you get a medium solid 2K, there is variations on 2k and it is the solid content of the materials. Most products over the counter will be medium solids, as the paint shop don't want the grief when your homebrew paint job doesn't dry properly.
100% don't use the propane heater. The moisture they add to the air isn't worth the reward. Just a cheapelectric heater is the winner.
In terms of cost your probably not far off similar money for single/2K, find a pretty sensible paint shop and you'll be around £23/£25 per litre for either, but then your activator will bump the price up a little bit. Personally, I'd get a gallon price, your more then likely gonna be 3l or so for your Porsche, looking £75ish, more often then not 5L will be £80ish so your always covered for future work.
What state is the car in Paul? Any primer work to be done? If your geared up for 2K top coat, use 2k primer too. The results are far better and will last far better when worked right.
Yes, 100% buy an air fed mask, full face too, the half face respirator style aren't worth the plastic they're made of.
Get on eBay and buy a second hand devilbiss item, buy a filter kit for it and get rocking. I bought one to paint my buddy's car in his garage as I knew my mask wouldn't keep up and with the work and got my money back on it once the job was done. If you get them at the right momey though they are a worth while thing to have in the garage.
Legend, thanks Tom! Just a few more questions if you don't mind?
I use 1k poly/synthetic quite a bit on our machines so I am familiar with it, I didn't realise it was bad for mopping though! Is there any way to brighten up a dulled synthetic finish without a respray?I have some electric heaters but I don't think they have the oomph to heat the area (I'll buy a marquee to put in a building so it'll lose heat rather quickly, I could build an insulated spraying room though if i really have to), how much heat is really necessary? Will there be any adverse effects with a lower temp apart from presumably a slower drying time?
You mention a wet edge to coke back on, what does that mean?
The car is pretty good in most places, a patch to do on one wing and the rear panel needs sanding right back as there was a reaction in the paint a while back. I might whack some better doors on so I'll probably need 5l of paint as they will need doing all over, they are red currently so presumably I'll be wanting a white primer as I'll keep the car Alpine white with black features I think. Should I be using any other sorts of primer on the car? Filler primer may be necessary on some areas, then I presume white primer, colour coat and laquer to finish?
Is this mask any good? I don't mind buying new at that price!
Devilbiss ProV 650
Ok turns out that doesn't include everything... is this sufficient?
Devilbiss filter shite -
My girlfriend and I want to do a road trip next year and she has agreed it would be great to do it in the 924. This gives me the excuse to get some of the small and large niggles sorted and get the car presentable as it has been looking very sorry for itself recently! Most of it I know what I'm doing but there are some things i'm unsure of.
I want to give it a fresh paint job, I'm sorted for the gun, and compressors but no idea which paint to go for and also which mask I'll be needing.
Paint wise, should I be aiming to use a 2 pack paint rather than single? Seeing as it'll be a full respray I can't see a reason not to as the finish and longevity of the paint should be far better? I've not sprayed 2 pack before but it seems fairly similar in processes, just a few more mixing stages. Is there much of a cost difference? I will have an indoor place to spray but no extraction or heating currently, are these things I'll really need to have for these few jobs or will it be a case of I'll need to polish lots more from overspray if i don't? I can heat the area before hand with my propane heater but this may release too much moisture in the air and obviously I can't use it after I've sprayed!
I'll be wanting an air fed mask regardless as I need to spray lots of agricultural stuff over the winter and regular face masks are rubbish. What is the best value for money mask to go for? Obviously I'd like to spend as little as possible, but I don't want to sacrifice my health so will spend whatever I need to.-
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Is there a way of testing the sensor you just fitted? Going from intermittent to on all the time suggests the new sensor could be completely faulty rather than half buggered
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You can buy that stuff from Screwfix, I used it on my Vivaro scuttle panel to seal it
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I Finally found time to get on with sorting out the free drum sander I picked up a few months back (from @george_seamons uncles workshop). It was 3 phase and the switchgear had issues so I dumped all of that and rebuilt it with single phase stuff. To start with I added a PWM dc motor controller to the conveyor motor and a switch to turn it on and off. The on/off switch I fitted for the main motor will be removed and replaced with a tachometer instead so I can monitor the speed and a NVR switch will be added to control the motor that turns both the drums. The original 5hp motor is going and being replaced with a 3HP single phase motor that I have sitting spare, this is temporary until I have an upgraded circuit added to my workshop for a more powerful motor but will do for now as long as I take it slowly and with very shallow passes. Once I have ordered a new belt (current one is shredded!) I should be able to get it cranking over and earning its keep!
I've also acquired four treadmills recently to steal the motors off for decent HP and variable speed goodness to power the following machines I've picked up:
Alexander Pantograph (was 3 phase) for £50, it weighs an absolute ton and is beautifully engineered! Now converted to a 2hp DC motor
Converted my free Shopsmith from a burnt out 1 1/8hp motor with shit variable speed pulleys to a 2.5hp DC motor, just waiting on new bearings to arrive and that can go back together properly.
Viceroy lathe that was being scrapped at the school I taught at, converted from 3phase 1hp to 3hp dc motor. The new motor slotted straight on!
I should probably start making things...
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Mega, I have an X5 shifter handy so I'll get sorting that! Cheers!
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On 5/1/2018 at 8:52 AM, forteh said:
Personally I'm using a 9 speed sunrace cassette, 10 speed xt shadow+ mech and a 9 speed sram x5 shifter, a right codge up of components that should not, by design, function together due to the cable pull ratios. Putting a 6.3mm spacer block under the cable clamp on the mech changes the ratio and makes it index perfectly
Got a photo of this Ed? I would quite like to try it!
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Yeah it's not worth the risk, my forearm got squashed when a jack failed (it also had a slow leak like yours). The doctor wasn't entirely sure how I didn't have any real damage apart from it looking a weird shape for a few weeks and going black. On the flip side I got my Saab onto 4 stands and just as I was adding the last stand the car fell sideways as one stand started to bend and crushed a cupboard against a wall but fortunately the car and I were unscathed.... lesson learnt, buy hydraulic drive on ramps as they are safer and you can get the car higher... oh wait I have had one of those snap too! I'm buying proper garage ramps next
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6 hours ago, MadManMike said:
Same as loads of things, sold as "Hardly used, mint", but turns up totally fooked.
Yep, had that with girls on Tinder too
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8 hours ago, Danny said:
With routers do you end up spending a fortune in bits?
Depends on what you are doing, a handful of mine are £50-100 and frustratingly they rarely get used but are essential for some of the jobs I do. You can get really dirt cheap ones off ebay, I've used a few and have been pleasantly surprised at £2 each!
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If you want a cheap, new and compact router then invest in one of these:
It's a clone of the Makita RT0700C and it is very good. I use it in preference to my Bosch palm router, and it's very handy for light duty work.
I'm going to be getting the Makita cordless version soon as I'm going completely cordless with all my power tools, but I'll still keep this for in the workshop
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So they go straight into the T track? That's a really neat solution!
I was given some bike racks that I modified to 9mm axle mount as my forks were too long for the arms to reach the downtube. I then made brackets to allow 15mm and 20mm forks to work too when I upgraded my forks
I used a 3D printer to make the bushes to adapt from 20-15mm
I also used a 3D printer to make a chainguide before narrow wide was a thing
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I've also taken on a house restoration for my friends parents, they have been great and helping me push my skills a bit. I have been recreating/restoring (where possible) the windows on their house, I've got some larger structural work to take on in the next few weeks which is exciting
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A pantry fit i took on recently, it was kitted out with a secondhand kitchen unit 40 years ago and the space didn't make any sense
Stripped out, false wall and ceiling assed to straighten the room and cover all the wiring
MDF units constructed and fitted, these were made in 2 pieces so that they would actually get through the doorway, even in half they still had very little wiggle room!
Reclaimed teak top (old science table) gave some character to what it quite a lifeless looking room!
I recycled the old pine shelving to make the drawer fronts, stained to match the worktop
Led lighting added to the top shelves to create a focal point on the glassware
I have since fitted a new light and floor, I just haven't got round to taking photos yet but it looks far better
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My workshop has come a long way in 2 years, finally fitted a new roof and I've nearly got my office finished, just struggling to find spare time to do it!
I was glad to get rid of the terrible plastic roof that leaked!
The roof lights have transformed the space inside, I don't need the lights on during the day now and It is less of a dark and horrible place to be
It's 8mx40m so quite a big space to maintain but I've managed to fill it!
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Good thread to start
Current WIP at home, I added the lights, extractor, radiator and painted it last year but the rest was pretty shit so I wanted to get ripping it apart and sorting it out. The plumbing was awful, the walls aren't straight, the floor has been hacked about loads and it just wasn't a happy room!
Plumbers were useless:
Image won't rotate for some reason but this is where I'm up to so far, skirting, edge strips and wiring of the vanity lights and shaver socket to go
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Just a thought, why don't we have a TF making thread? We have some talented people from a wide variety of backgrounds on here so it would be interesting to see what they have made and pick brains
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@Topsy Moulding planes would have been used for edge detailing, you can pick them up for virtually nothing but they require skill and patience to sharpen and set up.
You can pick up routers for very little, I got a £250 Makita fixed base (rare in the UK) from an old chap for a tenner!
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Pfft, £150 for the Porsche with loads of extras (Inc breakdown of course...)
Some very practical upgrades have happened to my van, pretty unexciting. It now actually works wonderfully, my crazy dash lights were a result of a dodgy accelerator pedal which I replaced with one from my spares van and I've also swapped over many of the best bits so mine is in really good mechanical order now. I'm saving to have it remapped soon and a new cambelt whacked on whilst it is there (sod of a job and I can earn more in the time it'll take me to do it than paying a garage to do it).
Additional spot lights:
I was fed up with having to remove my racking whenever I transported larger items so I made some folding shelving which works a treat:
I need to make some for the other side now but at least it only takes 10 seconds to fold down and less to fold back up
Reflectors replaced with reflector/led units and very bright reverse bulbs fitted so I can actually see now when reversing
I've also fitted an E46 leather seat upfront which is VERY comfy!
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10 hours ago, RobinJI said:
What state's it in these days Paul? If any bits off mine could be of use let me know as I'll be reusing very few original bits. Although most of my bits are pretty ropey there's a few that might be useful.
I finally got my order placed with Gaz. I should admit I hadn't been chasing them much as I've been mega busy at work helping sort out our new building, and there's been some back and forth to decide on spec, rather than just one call to place an order.
A set of their 'gold' coilovers with custom rears to ditch the torsion bars should be arriving in about 4 weeks (made to order).
Nice on on the shocks! What engine are you putting in now?
This is the last I saw of mine:
It starts and runs (roughly!) but that is about all it has going for it right now. The interior is falling apart, the paint is coming off in places, the steering is very wobbly and it just needs lots of love. What have you got going spare? I need a working WUR and AAV, door cars, carpets, rear cards, a hatch that isn't separating and several litres of Alpine white paint!
The Car Thread
in Chit Chat
Posted
Thats some lovely work @Tom Booth if mine is half that glossy then I'll be happy...
I've just sold my T25 Doka which means I now have a cash injection for the Porsche sooner than I expected! I need to get clearing some space for it in the workshop and then the strip down can start so I'm quite excited now. I'll get sorting the electrical and mechanical issues first, these should be fairly simple to sort so it won't be long at all before I'm getting the bodywork sorted