Jump to content

CurtisRider

Members
  • Posts

    7571
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

Everything posted by CurtisRider

  1. Regarding sophistication on crutches, there is a reason to get more technical than a dodgy spring with no adjustability! For example crutch football, the crutches will take pretty heavy abuse and be set stiffer, but then afterwards, when doing normal walking, they would require something a bit more forgiving as they won't be pushed at hard. A form of damping would be necessary as otherwise they will react horribly when taken off the floor, which could cause problem with balance. Elastomers certainly seem the easiest plan and do tick most of the boxes (not sure how to make them stiffer on the fly?). I had been looking at leftys on ebay but they go for too much i can't find the internal workings of them either. I'm sure theres a way to combine the internal workings of a fork to 1 leg, it will just be a case of pulling some apart to find out!
  2. I didnt realise mr muscle would work that well! If i find an awfully coloured shell to replace my horrid impreza i will bear that in mind! I have seen a few fast chargers on ebay, although for just over £22 i can get a genuine Imax b6 from hobbyking which is perfect for me hoping tom can find his though! I made another battery pack today, think i can make 2 more and the rest of the cells are dead. Should be receiving my makita battery through the post this week so ill have some nimh packs to make Whats the deal with adding a capacitor to the battery leads going into the ESC? Does it help much on acceleration? Is it worth it, if so what size cap? Does anybody fit inline fuses to protect everything?
  3. They don't seem to have any dirt cheap ones right now I will just have to look secondhand or hope somebody has some snapped ones kicking about!
  4. Ok i think i get the air chamber arrangement now and lockout, thank you! I have been looking at air pogo sticks but they go for too much money!
  5. I'm aware of that but they also use air to adjust them? My Rebas have an air chamber on top and at the bottom or is this just for the stiffness? Do they not use air at all for the dampening system?
  6. Looking good Tobias!
  7. Hi guys, i have a project in which i will be building some crutches for a young lady who has no cartilage in her knees. She has said that she wants some form of give in the crutches and that a suspension system would be ideal. There is already a suspension crutch available but it is not user adjustable, and is way overpriced. An on the fly adjustable system like how MTBs have would be an interesting concept and make the crutches more universal (she wants them for walking but others use them for football, etc). I am looking at suitable systems to apply to the suspension idea. I have a basic idea on how oil damping works, but i am hazy as to how air shocks work? How do they actually adjust? I can't find any detailed info as to how lock out works and things like that. I am also interested in the old style elastomer systems, but i cant find any images of thier construction (fairly sure its just a long tube of elastomers instead of a spring?) Any diagrams of how stuff works is appreciated! Also if anybody has any old or broken suspension forks/suspension seatposts/rear shocks that they have to donate, i would happily pay postage and a few quid for your troubles
  8. I wish i could, i really miss riding I have my car so i can always drive to yours when you find it
  9. Awesome cheers dude! Yeah i have a biachi xc thing but i can't ride it as i have a slipped disc still my 24 is at home although i will probably never use it again!
  10. That would be awesome man, how much do you want? You are only down the road too
  11. You got that well clean what did you use? I got given an ESC by a dude on an rc forum to replace my home made one which was pretty cool! Also got some wheels and tyres through the post and made my own battery pack out of a drill battery (got enough to make 3 packs, all nicad though but its still a few more minutes of fun) Car is working really well, drifts like crazy! Really need a fast charger now but i can't afford one overnight charging is so lame! Has anybody had sucess using a drill battery charger? Did wonder about getting one and reducing the output for a 7.2v pack. Otherwise i guess i shall just save for the imax B6 seeing as it covers all my needs
  12. Cheers Mike! Topsy i didnt drill the holes as i didnt want loads of holes all over my shell! However you are correct, that is a way to prevent them creeping any further. I used hot glue and liberally applied around the cracks, they shouldnt open up anymore unless majorly hit haha. I have been using the car at night as i dont have much other opportunity, its pretty dimly lit round here so out came the soldering iron again...
  13. This evening i have sanded the roof down and wrapped it. Made a spoiler and a lower diffuser using milk carton covered in wrap. Made some body clips from some old wire. I just need to find some clear plastic so I can sort the windows out and then the shell is done (may have spent too much time on such a scabby shell!). I took the car out for a quick test on my road, was far faster than I thought (I didn't expect much)and the brakes were a little less effective than I expected and a bit of curb contact damaged a front hub although they are the same as the Kyosho so i stole one of them until i repair the damaged one. I now have the brake setup correctly so at least that shouldn't happen again! I found a 9.6v battery in my box of crap, so thats currently charging ready to see what difference it makes and whether i should go for 9.6v over 7.2v.
  14. Yeah i just want something simple really, it'll probably just get broken anyway! I will give an HK shell a go when funds permit I started work on my Impreza shell tonight. I stripped off all the stickers (really badly applied+extra gash ones) and began repairing the splits. I had to drill new holes for mounting the shell to the Reely, I reinforced the holes with steel washers. There was a hole in the roof so I patched in the bottom and used a skim of plastic bumper filler to smooth it out. I have 3M carbon vinyl wrapped the boot and bonnet to cover over the bulk of the paintwork that has gone a bit funny. Once the roof is dry and smoothed out, i will wrap that too. The wrap has actually helped make the shell stiffer, i forgot how hard it goes! Photo in my shower as it has a fan to extract the scent of the filler!
  15. It lives! Stole a wheel off the Kyosho and gave it a whirl on the landing, seems to be reasonably nippy (didn't get a chance to get to full speed, its also geared up by 2 teeth compared to when it had an engine). Steering servo has decided it wants to work the opposite way round...and when i reverse it on the tx, it just goes weird... hopefully sort that easily enough. Motor mounted up, but needs the correct size bolts which i can sort on monday, mount seems sturdy enough though I found a funky anodised orange heatsink that i had from one of my robotics projects, adds a bit of colour to it Battery mounted up and secure but easy to swap Now i need to put my attention to the shells whilst i wait for the cars proper wheels to arrive. I have a Subaru Impreza, Toyota Corola and a Peugeot 206 but each one is tatty and has cracks. I will repair one for now using my hot glue gun, but eventually i would like to get a nice shell. Are the ebay Hong Kong shells ok? I have seen a Camaro that tickles my pickle for about £15 painted
  16. It looks like a typical receiver really! So what ill do is mount the battery on the chassis and create a shelf above to mount the receiver and its battery hopefully that will be nice and neat!
  17. Some steel/alloy rod with grub screws would be a quick and easy solution for those shafts? With the receiver, theres no actual reason for it to be in that little box thing i have is there apart from protection? I would like to have a battery mount there instead to keep the weight nice and low, so the receiver would have to be on a little shelf ontop
  18. Have you got any photos? I may be able to knock some up, although the technician today was pretty frustrated that I was making stuff for a 'bloody toy car' haha! So I may have to tread carefully for a little bit as he is handy when I have projects. Reely so far I made my new hub axle, and fixed the driveshaft (needed a new pin). Bodged up a replacement front hub with some metal epoxy putty and brass bushings for now until i can get another proper one (this works so that's all I care about ) I Made a motor mount, just needs drilling so it can secure to the chassis. I found some Ripmax sprockets which were the same pitch as mine at uni, and made one fit my motor, now I have a few spares for both the motor and centre box just incase! I mounted up the drill trigger and hooked to to the servo to make an MSC, I couldn't use the makita trigger in the end as it was duff so I am using the mechanical brake instead I am awaiting new wheels (this car only has 3+they are shoddy), and I need to figure out how to mount the battery securely, I was thinking of using a velcro strap riveted to the top receiver housing? I also need to secure the heatsink for the mosfet off the MSC. I think a better steering servo may be on the cards once its all working, this one hasn't got much power and is quite slow. Is there such thing as a decent budget servo? Also will my motor need a heatsink? It's a 550 stock motor so i am guessing not? Cost so far £19.70 for everything, woop!
  19. Thanks for the link, the trouble is those MSCs aren't that great (I had one on my grasshopper when i was younger) and I can get a ESC capable of running my current motor for a few quid more! I am trying to build this thing on a budget as I don't have much disposable income but I do have lots of time to make things (I get materials free from uni, and have tools there+tools in my room). The trigger control should suffice until I can afford a ESC, and I realised I have a makita trigger with a built in brake, so i may not have to bother with the mechanical brake on the car Hoping to get on the lathe today and build some hub axles, 1 was missing from the Reely and some spares wouldnt hurt
  20. Yeah i saw! Can get 20 for £10 I happened to stumble upon a video of what i was planning on doing for the speed control, that seems perfectly good enough until i can afford an ESC (unless anybody knows of any good schematics so i can build one myself?)
  21. That track looks well fun Heres the two cars cleaned up, minus front hubs, wheels and engines. The Kyosho is nearly ready to go, just need to fit the engine and replace the servo that controls the engine/brakes. The Reely is proving to be a sod to get parts for the engine. I have found that i can retrofit parts from the kyosho engine but it starts working out as being pretty expensive and this is the car i would rather keep due to it being seemingly better (seems better built, parts look easy to make myself and has ball bearings all round opposed to the kyosho having just bushes). I think it would be cheaper overall for me to go electric. This is partially down to me thinking of going the drill motor route (i have a few spare that are 550s), make a motor mount myself and use the drills trigger with a servo to make a speed controller on the cheap and have it setup like on the engine so it still utilises the brake. I already have a 3800mah nimh battery and charger, and these are cheap enough for me to get a few more later on when i can create funds. All it seems i will need to buy is a pinion gear which brings me onto my next question.... How do i work out what pitch gear it is? It seems 32 and 48 are the most common? The Reely is the same as the Kyosho (Alpha Pureten) if that helps...
  22. I'm not looking to tune it or anything, just get it going and have some fun with it for as cheaply as possible! I'm only a beginner and i don't intend to race The other car is a Kyosho Alpha Pureten, are they much better? Quality wise its looking to be near enough identical to the Reely... am i significantly better off keeping one over the other?
  23. It's this badboy: When i got it, quite oily and mucky and the chassis was distorted alot After a full strip down, looks 100x better! Waiting for some wheels to arrive, then i need to get on with sorting the bodyshell Tempted to go electric if i can't sort the engine, seems that the costs aren't much more and i don't have to keep buying fuel which is a bonus!
  24. I have been working on the Reely P190, one of the front hubs+axle was missing so i made my own brass bush instead of a bearing but it'll do for now and it wont be running drive shafts upfront anyway Hoping to have some fun drifting it about and if thats boring i can always make a new axle thats compatible with driveshafts I am stuck on the Reely engine, its a 12 size and apparently had a new cyclinder sleeve and piston fitted. Its missing its pull start and glow plug. I can't seem to find any information on the engine so I dont know what the part numbers are, nor can i find out what fuel type i need. Does anybody happen to know a Reely distributor? I have found one in germany called Conrad but they said they could not help. Everybody i have spoken to so far hasn't even heard of Reely...
  25. I accidentally 2 nitro cars last night for 21quid complete with radio gear for each one EDIT: collected them, one is a reely p190, the other a kyosho alpha pureten. Kyosho just needs a good clean and its ready to go, reely needs front hubs, wheels and a pull starter and it should be all good. Think i will sell the kyosho as its seemingly worth decent money, get what i paid back and then use the reely for parts for my home built car
×
×
  • Create New...