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AdamR28

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Everything posted by AdamR28

  1. Thanks - that does make sense. (The other pads in between are 1155s.) Hmmm... time to hit Google
  2. Very similar yeah, but not quite the same - it's the front end that's different.
  3. Pretty sure it's not an Onza, but can't work out what it is...
  4. Which ones exactly do you use Alex? They sound like just what I'm looking for... I've had 1144s in the past and they were poo. Currently using some Hawk pads which stand the heat well but I can't identify them (no markings on the backings) and the pedal feel is horrible. Cheers!
  5. That was pretty cool, he's got style in a marketable kinda way The intro made me think of this though...
  6. Haha, yeah, screw EBCs. Had some on my Golf and they were 'ok' but there's so many reports of them being poop. If you do plan to up the power and do some road hooning then uprated pads might be prudent, certainly don't NEED them though IMO.
  7. This is funny I'm off to go and have fun in my 115bhp car with £19 rear tyres and OE pads
  8. Apart from when cold, which is what we're talking about We're not saying they are pants (well, mine wouldn't even take 2 laps without disappearing, but that's a different story), just that OE pads are probably a better solution all things considered (including price!) for the use of the car.
  9. I mean scientifically, not you bodging the results so you win
  10. It would be fun to do the maths to prove OE pads stop you better from 100mph (not that you should be at that speed anyway) from cold given the same pedal force, but I can't be arsed. Haven't tried the RC6s, but RC5 and RC5+ have been good for me.
  11. What Paul and Liam said! The Carbone Lorraines are also poo from cold but at least they allow you to press on while on track (and are about the same price).
  12. I guess everyone is different. I could make OE pads useless in 60 seconds too, but you would never drive on the roads in that way. I've never had an issue with them, and I bet I could pilot the same car around a track on OE pads faster than you could with DS2500s I just don't see the need for expensive (what are they, £150?) pads on a road car when decent quality standard ones will be more than up to the job.
  13. Yeah I guess so George - makes sense. They seem popular anyway. For a daily driver, OE spec pads IMO.
  14. You couldn't out of me I would rather buy proper pads
  15. Good quality OE pads are all you need for road use. Notice the DS2500 friction curve only starts at 150 degrees (and that that point it's climbing fairly rapidly) - they are a bit scary when cold from my experience. If you drive hard on track they won't be up to it either, so for me they are one of those 'all rounder' items that's not really much good for anything.
  16. Just like my MX-5. But a little less manly.
  17. They are fine, but the Z610 is better. Wider doesn't necessarily mean stronger.
  18. The bars are 100% carbon, there is no 'aluminium reinforcement'...
  19. The tap is M18 x 1.0, it's a weird size. We have one if you need. I would go down the star nut route now though, as it sounds like the threads could be pretty mashed. The smallest one we sell (18mm) fits perfectly.
  20. The car will feel more pointy and responsive but it might actually have reduced grip...
  21. Normal rotors for the win, same brand as the pads you are using.
  22. Aaah, makes sense In general (all rotors of this style), the rivets batter the alloy centres and they fall apart... The Shimano ones seem to be holding up on Ali's bike though (but they are £££).
  23. Can't be steel cos it's anodised... And they would weigh a ton.
  24. Got plenty of big logos everywhere Haha, thanks - yeah it is easy Ended up being quicker (in lap time, he battered me with racecraft) than a chap who's been karting (and winning) at European and International level for the last 10 years so I was fairly happy with that!
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