AdamR28

Got a photo of the dropout?

I also like the star ratchet system, very robust. Splines instead of threads sits much better for me. Unsure how I feel about the Chinese stuff - quality will always be lower than European made. Gut feel is that if you are killing Pro4s, I wouldn't trust AliExpress...

Not available separately. Hope have always used a screw in design. Getting them out is problematic!

Beautiful 🫶

Was at a show yesterday chatting to Steve. He has a few riders (myself included) interested in 135mm bolt in hubs now, and says he will let me know how that's going - I should think you'll be on the same mailing list too 👌 There was also chat of a sprag bearing version, but I didn't ask about that for trials applications, and they are working on a star ratchet system too. The hubs are a proper piece of engineering, so clever having the ratchet diameter unconstrained by hub shell size!

Normal, and nothing related to the chain.

The piston will also "dry out" if you leave it somewhere warm, but of course will take water back in again over time. I think it swells to 106% size, from memory, so the long term fix is either a lathe or as Alex says above 👌

So good, as always. Thank you for sharing, Ben. You've done it all in those 28 years, mad kudos! 🙌

Have a look at Cane Creek Slamset if you need to pinch a bit more space for a short steerer.

Its hard to quantify, but I notice this a lot. POEs is a useful metric but doesn't tell the full story. A King at 72 POE but ring drive will actually give you drive faster than - say - an 88 POE pawl type since after the click, the freehub needs to rotate a little before the pawls are engaged. The Halo SupaDrive 120 is really "bad" for this as an example, since the pawls slide and act like a wedge - yes there are technically 120 POEs, but it is absolutely more than 3 degrees from click to full engagement. Depending on how the Spank looks inside, could be totally normal / fine / undamaged. Wear is another factor as Serge said, with pawl seats stretching and allowing pawls to be "dragged" forward, so they need to re-seat before engagement.

Would hazard a guess at differences in calibration / accuracy of the two different sets of scales.

Ashton, I think...?

Pretty common still. Example... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291581098041

Yep 👍

1 is compatible, but might be a bit more squishy feeling (though will give more braking power) If you can find the part then 2 would be my first call. That brake is closing in on 20 years old now though...!

And pretty much anything that's 10mm bolt in can be converted to 12mm through with a 12mm drill bit 👌

Sounds more like a BB / crank / pedal noise if it is more noticeable on one side.

Yep completely fine / normal.

And we will now never know... Man I look so much better 3 stone lighter 😅

😅 As above.

Seriously impressive, amazing work! 😎👍

All black bikes with bright coloured frames... winning 😎

New gadget released this week, Axle Blockers to ensure rear wheels don't slip forward: https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/other_frame_spares/tartybikes_rd_axle_blocker/c127p14321.html Can be used in conjunction with the Hybrid tensioner for a super reliable setup on any horizontal dropouts 👍

No problem! Looks like the CNC backings are going ahead with a small manufacturer about 5 miles from the Tarty warehouse. Great to keep things local where possible 😎

Carbon road cranks for a trials bike? I love a sketchy, inappropriately used Chinese bike part, but that's too far IMO. Maybe the money would be better spent elsewhere. Rotating weight perhaps? What is the rest of your spec now?