AdamR28

The difference for a King Classic is just under 3mm left and right, we do spokes in even lengths (nobody cuts spokes any more, at least I hope they don't!), so you'll have something like 262 and 264, for example. For all dished wheels, ignore where the spoke sits in relation to the top of the nipple (within reason) and add more tension to one side to pull the wheel across. One side will always be a lot tighter than the other on a dished wheel, it has to be - triangulation. The rim should be in the centre of the axle, not the hub shell, I think that's where you're going wrong.

They look pimp Brakes didn't seem to have any issues at Donington Nick!? Or did you just get an itchy credit card? In related news, currently undertaking a dry sump installation. Had about 10 deliveries from various suppliers so far, one's taken over 3 weeks and still isn't here, and 4 of them have had the wrong stuff, bloody frustrating!! Should have been finished by now!!

Either need: - Centred sprocket OR - Flip the sprocket over and a 3/32" chain Best solution: - Centred sprocket AND 3/32" chain

Rag it through a muddy field.

Dammit, a sensible, scientific answer

At least it makes sense I guess (the Rock bit)... The new 20" frame is called the Flint, too.

Momentum? A bit like a 3 cylinder car engine. (That is a complete guess by the way, using logic, nothing knowledge-based )

Needs to be single layer nylon hose for HS33s really, and standard industry size is 5mm OD x 3mm bore (not strong enough). Best bet is heatshrink over the existing hose - done carefully you won't even need to re-bleed the brake.

Quick extra bit of info as we've seen this before and found the solutions... The tensioners aren't designed to resist pedalling forces, the rear wheel axle bolts are for that job. While the Gusset ones are strong enough to take this abuse, they shouldn't really be subjected to it. If you put some decent grease on the thread of the bolt, a washer under its head, and grease on this washer, this will allow you to produce more clamping force and therefore transmit less load to the chain tugs. With this done, you can use any old crappy tugs and they won't bend - they only die when the axle bolts aren't clamping tightly enough. If the bolts in the rear hub aren't already, try and get some 12.9 grade ones (this will be stamped on the head).

That's as big as I have, sorry, it's just a still from a video... But I might be able to sort a better quality one?

Not really cars, but karting... Went with the guys from work tonight, cracking fun and had a pretty close finish - just 0.001 in it!

They only come without the specific mounts now, all have the stick on mounts though. Cheapest place is probably eBay, but you might struggle with updating the firmware (each camera has a serial which you need to input to get the updates) if it's not from a legit source. If you find good UK, fully legit source I'd be happy to match any price dude.

It's got a carbon frame, fork and bars... That's why.

^^ In short, we get f**ked over The price on MRS's site was a mistake, it's been changed now. Warranty is normal 6 months covering manufacturing and materials defects.

Interesting. It's all a bit engineers trying to 1-up each other in that thread, haha! Be interesting to see what sort of level of riding the guy with the Echo is at (to try and add some weight to the 'the brakes work ace' claims).

Nice bike though

Anything to do with motorsport - you can instantly add motorsport tax and it becomes twice as expensive as it should be OBD2 datalogger with GPS and accelerometers? It's been done before but I don't think the market is saturated personally... the cheapest decent ones don't have OBD2 connectivity and are still over £500.

It isn't at first, trust me, and I'm still a massive pussy when it comes to getting close to other cars. But I wanted to push myself and that was the next step. You could definitely do it, just takes a bit of getting used to Doing it in an old car where spares are cheap and easily available helps, haha.

Looks like a decent event! Alex, you'd be absolutely fine - you've got to the point where you can drive the car without thinking too much now, the next step is to add a few other cars in close proximity

That's fair enough - I have a feeling the Pro2 you have / have felt has some sort of issue though...

Compared to all rear freehubs.

Pro2s are actually one of the least draggy hubs out there, if anyone has a stiff one (insert erection joke here) it's likely your main drive side seal isn't seated correctly.

Spanner -> works: My Pro pads are better in the wet and dry, no squealing.

Octavia vRS. Even the hatch has a huge boot. http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/for-sale/search/skoda/octavia/vrs-2005/usedcfs-257214530775639/ Mine genuinely did 40mpg on the motorway too.

That's a pad bedding issue - discs don't warp nowadays, they just pickup pad deposits unevenly when you don't bed them in hard enough, which feels like warped discs. For once, Jardo is right about something