LauraPalmer

thanks - i wouldn´t have thought about 18:16 in your case!

ups to front and hooks look superrelaxed! as the usual 18:15, 380 isn´t meant to be possible with that frame... what gear ratio are you running - i can´t imagine you use a halflink?

loved it! would be regularly watched on my TV if you would upload a higher qualitiy version of it.

this... I have a hydroxx II lt and 18:15 works with TNN-clamps - wouldn´t work with clamps that have a shorter adjustment range; clamps with the plastic washers is another option(not the nicest one though...) edit: beauty btw

looks great! 1090 - perfect; 72 ha - perfect; I hope you lower the bb a little - around +40 - there are too many 50+ frames out there and only very few around the 40 to 45 range - i think a lot of riders would appreciate that. 385 stays is a good idea - but there is no reliable 17t freewheel on the market, so only freehub user can run 17:14; to me a halflink(with 18:15) is no real option; so why not place the brake mounts to fit 380 and 385 stays and put two holes in the dropouts, one for a 380- and one for a 385 snailcam-fit!?

just came from the Austrian premiere - that was a bit good...

I´m wondering how the chainline ends up with those hubs? I´m running a H135-hub, with a 128mm TryAll BB, V!Z halfring and an ENO at the moment - to get my chainline perfectly straight i had to use a 2,5mm cogspacer on the rear with a surly cog (7 mm base); that´s why i can´t imagine this would work out well - the H135 is 44mm center to flange, the Echo 35mm... I thought chainline was the reason so many people hated those Deng modstocks with 116mm spacing, but the hub is basically the same for 135 and 116mm, only the hubspacers differ; so a 135mm setup would basically have the same chainline as those 116mm setups had...? Questions to people who actually use them: do you use a narrower BB with this hub or just don´t care? Are chains and cogs wearing out obviously faster due to an imperfect chainline? Do the axles break faster compared to hubs like the H135 - i know steel vs 7075..., but because of the small flange distance and the resulting long hubspacers?

then you could have gone straight to 380s na, i think they bunnyhop better ( i have read - you can handle the "new" geo better, I´m with you on the higher bb for making bunnhops nicer also...), maybe due to more leverage ( i liked my 400 stays on the HiTec and Syntace quite a lot); and i don´t need it for the trialsy moves - this bike is supposed to be an antagonist to my hydroxx, so when I`m tired of sidehops and frontwheelgaps i can go out and bunnyhop over things... no need to sell me on the bike anyway - Thomas already did (although he has the 390, +10 i think)!

i appriciate the higher BB, but would have kept the 390... anyway, I can´t wait till mine arrives!

I´d like to know! when i get mine I´ll let you know, if that were good ideas!

i was referring to TryAll hole and TrialTech SL

people usually don´t take the rim into consideration, which makes a lot of difference; what i found out for me (hydroxx LT, TNN clamps, no booster): TNN on TryAll rims - not good, kill the grind fast, very poor hold; not to compare with Cousts(original) or Heatsinks (whites). TNN (LGM and B.) on TrialTech rims: the best performance i have ever felt: agressive bite, tons of hold; LGM even seemed to have too much bite to ride them properly; B. are perfect - in all conditions...

awesome vid! btw he is riding this frame for about 5 years now...

what a beauty! but is it really 1080 with that 45 mm rake fork - would be a super short reach...?

very nice - another side of you... how´s the hydroxx treating you?

how do you do that - brakebooster and angled pads? what most people don´t take into consideration is which rim you use with which pad; for example my TNNs (both LGM and Kennys) work awesome on a trialtech rim, whilst they don´t work very good on the TryHole rim; apart from that, my experiences: (i ride without a booster, TNN clamps, on a Hydroxx lt and with a sharp grind) coust rubber: immense bite, after a while lack of hold, ok in the wet (on an older TryAll rim model), not good in when it gets dusty Heatsink white(same compound as the yellow isn´t it?): good bite, good hold; not so nice in the wet (on an older TryAll rim model), ok when dusty TNN LGM: best bite i ever experienced, very good hold, very good in the wet, not good when it gets dusty TNN Kennys: good bite, very good hold, medium in the wet, good in dusty condition As said, this is with a trialtech rim, with a TryHole rim, everything gets worse in every condition

such a pleasure to watch!

how long do you guys run your 510/610 HX? Mine stretches so little compared to the kool chains... Someone out there running them till they stretch a certain amount? - like the usual 0,7mm in 10 cm on this tools (Rohloff Caliber...); my Kool Chains reached that amount of stretch sometimes in 2 weeks, but my three months old 510HX (ridden 3 or 4 times a week)has just stretched a tiny little bit; I´m really not sure if i could run them till they really stretch that 0,7 mm (which is the recommonadtion for alloy cogs, to prevent them from wearing; 1 mm in 10 cm would be for steel cogs - anyway i always wanted to be on the very safe side)

did you ride it with a lengthened chain?

fast as usual - thanks a lot Adam!

As the thread title says, but i only want to hear about high quality sprockets - cheap 3/32" don´t hold up, but do surly and trialtech (or anything else)? I´m a 85 kg rider who forces his drivetrain a lot, but my Surly 1/8" managed to show no signs of wear, after about 2 years of riding (changing chains every three months or when they stretch more than 0,7 mm in 10 cm)... As a sidequestion - has anyone noticed a diference in wearing between them? why am i even asking: I´m running a 1/8" Surly on the rear, due to very fast wearing of cheap or Chris King cogs(far too soft material) and so I´m forced to run z510hx chains (which i love), but i could get Z610HXs very very cheap so I´m thinking about switching... second question: does it really have effects if you use a 1,375x24 on a 1,37x24 thread? I never had problems with TA cranks and an ENO (using that setup quite long now), anyone ever had problems with let´s say the Surly cog which is 1,375x24 (on Tarty it says 1,37 but I´m pretty sure this is not right) and a TA H135 hub?

CHRIS AKRIGG James Porter Rowan Johns with brakes Sean Watson AliC with brakes puh, i must be a bit bored to answer that thread

measured with a 35 or 45 fork? with a 45 would be horribly short for a +60 bike...

i somehow thought so... to say the truth - i wasn´t a big fan of your older videos - but the last three or four left me speechless!

scary to me how relaxed you do those gaps! out of curiosity - in which dropout-postion do you run your hub and why - did you try to find out which works best for you?