durkie

have you looked at derailleurhanger.com? they sent me a replacement hanger for my bt5 and it was machined and much stronger than the original.

dude, it sounds like everything that can be f**ked up about a magura has happened to your brake. why do you think it's the pads? unless you're running some narrow-ass rim on a frame not meant for it, then tpa all the way in and cylinders as close as possible to the rim doesn't happen. just start all over.

yeah, this is a huge deal. what are testing? wear behavior? hardness? let's say you're testing grip. how are you quantifying it? what are you going to attribute diferences to? how can you test that? maybe you should buy some polyurethane sheeting, of the same compound but in different colors, and see how that affects grip.

they're just bolt washers. http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/showthread.php?t=17970

from what i can tell, the metal backings all have some play when they sit on the piston...the heatsink ones and the plaz ones. that worries me...the plaz ones would break your piston head off, and i feel like it's a matter of time with the heatsink ones too.

how many do you need?

QUOTE(deanie-b @ Jan 1 2006, 04:10 PM) ←Plazmatic coating always seemed like a good idea to me Some people on OTN reported the coating physically getting smoothed out by koxx bloxx after a period of time. Good project Hope it goes well for you. i could definitely see this happening. in using harder compound (95A) pads, noticeable wear can set in earlier. however, currently i'm using some 80A pads that are pretty soft, and they work really well, don't wear too fast, and likely put less burden on the coating as well. also, just to clarify, the US$100-$120 is the cost for a new rim with coating, not just the coating process itself. my plan is to sell wheels precoated.

Alright, so I've been working for over a year on getting some details straight in producing trials rims plasma coated with a hard, abrasive material. The primary goal in doing these coatings is to eliminate the need for grinding, and allow for braking that is at least as good as a grind, without some of the maintenance issues and destructive nature of grinding. Below are some pictures of pad compounds and the coating (with larger pictures in my gallery and more specific pictures available upon request.) Pad compounds tested so far (17 and counting): Coating pictures (somewhat worn/dusty): (relatively fresh) Projected price per rim is around US$100-$120, and projected price per pair of brake pads is probably around US$10-$15 or lower. I plan on selling new trials rims (DX32, try-all fatty, new echo, etc) precoated so that you don't have to fuss with shipping a wheel and waiting for it to return. Everything still needs a little more testing, and I don't think it's quite ready for primetime, but it's getting really close. The the big X factor remaining knowing when they'll be ready is that I can't get much input on these rim coatings without sending them out to people, and I can't send them out to people without a decent financial investment per rim. What I'd like then is input on what you think are important aspects to maximize. Coating grit and pad compound allow a lot of variety in performance, and things like overall brake maintenance, coating lifetime, pad lifetime, brake modulation, and brake lockup are all mutable. So what would you like to see? As an example, coating/pad combinations can be produced that produce incredible lockup, but the coating and pad both wear faster than normal - so the wheel would probably perform at its best as a competition-only wheel, and pads would need replacement after every few competitons. The worn coating would still function very well, but would not have quite the complete lockup under almost any condition. Or I could produce something with harshness similar to a grind that works with already-existing pads, and you would simply not have to worry about grinding anymore. Or I could produce something in between, with the pads and coating producing something that can't save your butt in all conditions and all slightly-missed moves, but still works better than a grind (similar to the worn "competition-only" coating). In general, the custom pads I've produced have worn faster than normal pads with a grind, but their being cheaper than normal pads should help offset that. Pad compound can also be varied to produce little dust, so that the only adjustment necessary as the pads wear is with the TPA or slave cylinder adjustment. Or they can be produced to wear in a fine dust, causing reduced pad wear and allowing the dust to pack in to the coating and make it less harsh, meaning more brake modulation as desired. The dust can be easily brushed off with an old toothbrush, although that is more maintenance... As it is, the two pad/coating examples I listed above are the two options I'm thinking people would want most. What do you think? Am I missing something big?

U6 is a trade name. I think it's supposed to be similar to 6061-t6 maybe, but that thread will say better. But yeah, U6 is just a trade name, like plexiglas or teflon.

CNC is just a machining process. It pretty much involves a computer cutting out shapes from metal stock. What's so good about it is that it's a big buzzword right now, but also just that you can make intricate shapes with it and do neat designs, as opposed to just using standard tubes and welding stuff to them with traditional bike frames. Eyelets are stainless steel spoke hole reinforcements. They can help with the spoke pulling through the rim itself. With eyelets link Without eyelets: link Look at the difference in the spoke holes.

get a sheet from a material supply company (mcmaster.com might ship to uk) and cut it out. if it's brittle or flexy then that's how it's going to be. if you want to do anything more with its properties, or optimize it for the loads a chain tensioner is going to see, then you're going to need to make some friends with people that know or take some classes/read some books. either way, carbon fiber is pretty bad with impact and abrasion, despite it apparently being made from a "badass weave"

maybe a helmet cover would be more what you guys are looking for...

I would say it's quite likely. These biketaiwan links are coming in handy these days.

100mm? :blink:

This I really recommend. It cleans your pads off in like two minutes. Not that you really should do it this way, but you can smell when all the crap contaminating them has burned off completely, and you'll be done.

how about any of them? it's a headset. who cares?

I know for a fact that you can purchase this rim from the manufacturer with or without the brake wear indicator. This is the exact same rim as the koxx/viz/etc cheese. 3x stronger...holds a grind better than try-alls... :P i guarantee it's the same rim as all the others.

yeah, but just cause you can account for chain stretch won't stop it from happening, and won't stop your chain from eventually being too loose for the gear you'd like to use. ...unless you want to change your front and rear cog every month or so to deal with chain stretch.

yeah it's felix muecke. he's on observedtrials.net as "felix", but you should probably just search the forums before you ask him anything, because it's been said a million times.

what a crock of shit. it's polyurethane and you can formulate it millions of different ways. you give absolutely zero away when you tell someone that it's polyurethane. it's like saying your bike is made out of metal. and companies don't deserve any protection. this isn't a trade secret. if they don't want people messing with their products then they shouldn't be releasing them.

Use some acetone/nail polish remover. Rubbing alcohol/window cleaner/degreaser or anything vaguely acidic/basic will probably work too.

Don't bother baking them. Take a blow torch to them for like 2 minutes and you can see/smell the crap burning off of it (so you might want to hold your breath). Let them cool down and you're good to go.

what/where is this china forum you speak of?

http://www.damonrinard.com/36-24.htm

the 4 bolt brackets i've seen have had curved edges on the bottom brackets that fit over the mount itself. this isn't present on the top bracket. that means your bracket is not going to mate as well with the mount as it would if it were run the right way, and might actually sit higher. i mean seriously, 4 bolt boosters all have like 10 mm of spacers underneath them already. if you really think you can feel the flex (questionable to begin with), then why not design a booster that can fit around the mounting bracket and doesn't need spacers?