RyanRs

i use the pedal stroke to get the front up , then hit the front wheel. so i guess you hit it just after the pedal stroke. you pull up with your good foot foward. doing it like this has seen me up just over 4ft ! but the hardest part is geting enough speed to keep you going foward once you are on the object and to stop yourself having to jump off backwards. without enough speed, cliping the front wheel can make you land very upright on backwheel, like point of falling off the back. If you are good at pulling up manuals and accurate with the height of your font wheel, its probally better to get some speed and without doing a pedal stroke, manual at the top edge, and obviously you still have to lift the bike off the floor like with the kick hop, but if you get it right this way, the bike floats up there like its filled with helium! Ry (Y)

So with this shadow half link chain, is it theoryedically(sp?) possible to run single speed on a bike with vertical dropouts (like std MTB dropouts -incase i got it wrong) ie. Zoo Pitball , without having to use a form of chain tension device, ie rear mech etc... Basically run it like you would on a BMX / MOD bike?? also, is it possible to use a half link in a KMC Kool chain? as i like the look of the KMC's If this is possible, it would be excellent, as you can do away with the rear mech, bout 3 links of chain length and a whole lot of hassle every time you bash your rear mech! Think of the weight saved! Ry (Y)

Hum, conversion kit..?? where can i get this from and will it work on a zoo pitball?? i fort you have to have horizontal dropouts for these kits?

nope, no stiff links. checked every one! expecially where it jumps. but the jumps on the rear cog seem random! i think trialsboy560 may be correct with the worn sprocket though?? -i hope it is something as simple as this!

Help!! AAAARRG! For no apparent reason, my chain occasionally skips, like when it isn't in gear properly.. i have a KMC kwel chain, all links are good, the cog at the wheel isn't bent, the chain line from the rear cog to the chainring is almost a straight line, and my mech is setup in the right position to keep it on this gear (as i have taken all my other cogs off) if i turn the pedals anti clockwise, every 1 and half turns of the cranks, the chain jumps as it rolls onto the rear sprocket, like if one of the teeth are bent, but there ok! my chain is tensioned nicely too. Is it possible my KMC has worn out my rear cog? as they both aint exactly new! I no there are single speed cogs with longer teeth, should i get one of these? and where from? What is wrong with the bloody thing! its driving me insane as it completely takes my confidence away when going for a gap or even Pedaling fast!! HEELPPP! Ry >_<

Help me please some one! -or nick, CLS or neil.T if any of you read this... i can backwheel fairly high - 46" ish off a bunnyhop, 50" ish if i hit the front wheel(on a good day), but when i tap the front wheel i tap it near the top edge of the wall/object,kind of a 'Flick' of the front wheel. I noticed nick from the london ride backwheel a wall like 5ft high! he hit the front wheel on the wall, but no where near the top?? it looked like he poped a wheelie and rode into the wall with his front wheel,but then, as if there was a cable attached to him from a crane, he just flew up the wall to the back wheel!? is this a totally different technique to taping it on the top edge? because the top edge of 5ft is a bit high to tap, and nick's bike didnt look like it was at the point of flipping back or anything. -i have found in the past, i have gone to tap the f/wheel and accidently tapped it too low, and it has given the 'over the handlebars' effect, causing the backwheel to come flying up behind me and it feels like the bike is going to go much higher than the object i'm trying to get up, seems like the bike is rolline Up the wall on the front wheel, but i always bail in fear of going over and hitting my face... is this the beginnings of the technique i need to sus?? Ry >_<

Hi, just wondering if someone could post an exploded view of a chris king iso / classic rear hub. or even a digramatic drawing that shows how they work! i ask as i still dont exactly no how they work, people have tryed to explain to me, and even though i am a very mechanically minded person, i cant understand what they mean! I get the same problem with car Gear boxes! ,even though i re-built my own car engine myself and understand them to a T ! i cant get me head round the g/box! I think i have difficulty with things that contain ratchits and cogs!! lol Thanx Ry >_<

Ahh, but thats when you learn to manual properly, without using brakes!! Think of all these nutty flatlanders that use no brakes at all!! :)

if they work ok, then yea! grab it !! FSA stands for Fuc**ng Snapped Again! (in my books neway)

Na, the old enduro 4 calipers are twice the size of the M4 's and i think the pads are bigger too. i no the pistons are bigger. Plus apprently the Mono's levers , although the same as the mini lever in external design, i do belive they have different internal specs. My nearly new orbit XL II headset is creaking like a bugger, and its gone a bit stiff, its only 2 months old, and i have always kept it tight. its the second one to do this, has anyone got any idea whats wrong with it? the headest is still all tight and dosent rock. just bloddy creaks!! Ry :)

Hi, i feel this deserves its own topic as the sucess in this idea is brilliant.. So, basically i fort i would do some cutting and shutting with my old hope disk brakes to see if i can make a Super Powerful one! I started with a Hope mini.. the silver one (not the new black and gold one) which worked ok, but always slipped when i needed it the most... I also have a Hope enduro 4 ... with the old style lever ( not the like '98 style lever, but the one before the current ones,they got the vertical push piston ) So what i did, i used the enduro 4-pot caliper, inplace of the mini caliper, fitted to the New style lever from my mini, and used the Mini wavey disk. it needs to be properly bled as the lever feels a little bit spongy at 1st as its not the correct lever, but i found as it beds in, it feels a lot more solid.. the 4-pot pads reach the top half of the mini wavey disk , right where the groves are, and when you apply the brake, they properly bite into the edges! With this combination of parts, my front brake works absolutely amazing, it bites so well and still has good modulation. everyone who has rode my bike, even a couple of d/h'ers that have the 6-pot things, couldn't believe how Powerful my front brake is! So, if anyone is annoyed with their mini / mini mono and has a spare enduro 4 caliper lying around, Bolt that caliper on!! Ry :-

Just dont get thoes fiberax crap!! Myself and my mate used them once, and they worked pants... We did at 1st think maby there still bedding in, but like 3 months later!!..... god they turned the power of my enduro 4 into that of a mini mono!!

Thing is , hope's standard pads are EBC Green ! i no they used to be Gold, Green and RED. (gold being long lasting and red being Max Power!) I had a set of Red ones in my old C2 and the ammount of difference in power, well! i would compare it to going from magura Black std pads to Plazmatic sticky pads on a hs33!! but they did wear down a fair bit quicker... But who cares about that with disks, you only change the std pads once a year anyway! Ry :- Ps. Try ringing EBC! get the phone number for the Cars brakes dept, and ask them for the pushbike dept number... or ask hope if they have the number!

if your a wee bit unsure ... only grind one side... compare the performance differnece, and if you like it, grind the other side!! hehe! i combine a grind with tar.. gives a grabbier feel than just a grind,without loosing all modulation, but not a Sticky feel like tar on its own. locks twice as good as just tar on its own. Ry :-

Hum, well over 5 years. and being as i could do 8 ft drop offs (1 - 2 stylee) before i could kick hop!! and they wer not smooth landings! i have been through these frames... Trek (summin?) GT Zaskar LE Clubroost Stinger Hardcore frame Saracen Xlie 1 Saracen Xile 2 Saracen xile 3 Pashley 26mhz Orange Zero Mission Reffa Orange zero 2 (current bike) Wow! thats 11 frames!! and im just about to get a pitball!! hehe , they do tend to last more than a year now though, cos my riding has got a lot smoother! I would say i have spent in the reigon of £6,500 -£7,000. Jeush! But, i have made a fortune selling old parts! Ry :-

Kool, cheers peeps! i have just adapted my rb blade to fit my hs33 body and changed the levers over. the caliper piston appears to be working a bit better now! maybe it had something to do with the rb piston?? i have bodged hope seals in my rb + insulating tape. it 90% stops it leaking but i have to lube then pump the lever for 5 min every morning to get the thing to work, as the seals are too big and make the piston return Super slow. i have been putting a bit of 'Automatic Transmision Fluid' (lol) -as it is the only lub'ey stuff i have, on the white piston part of the rb (the external part where the adjuster goes) then pumping it to work the lube in. works fine after that (as long as i don't leave the lever without being pulled for more than 20 min!) but the hassle of it all is too much! so i changed the blade to the hs33. I think i will service the calipers tomorrow and give it a fresh bleed. How do you get the caliper pistons out?? Also, i have herd that using de-ionized water is better than normal water....? Doesn't De-Humidifiers create de-ionized water?? as i have 2 of them in my home! Thanx Ry :-

My magura caliper piston ( the NON slave side ) has recently decided to start sticking. When i apply the brake and release, it all works freely and the slave side returns nicely, but the non slave side stays out. it doesnt even think about returning back. how do i stop this as it is really bloddy anoying, because the pad catches the tar on my rim and makes anoying noises!! Ry :-

Yeay ! someone actually knows what good, 'proper' drum and bass is all about. other than all this cheap commercial chavvy crap like 'chopper' and 'long dark tunnel' ect!! Damm! No wonder people are going off the stuff, all they ever hear is the crap stuff that every 16 yr old burbury hat wearing boy has! and none of the real, Talent'ed drum&bass thats out there! I love my drum and bass, i am a pt time DnB Dj and have produced some tunes. so it is nice to see when people mention a 'Real' Dnb tune! If you want Grimey, Dark and Bassy.. go for anything from the following.... BUT BE WARNED, THIS STUFF IS SERIOUS AND DARK, EVEN SLIPKNOTT WOULD BE SCARED OF SOME OF THIS! No chav stuff here! Technical Itch recordings (Mark carlo's stuff) Dom&Roland (moving shadow) Leon Switch and Kriptic Minds (Metalheadz) Evol Intent / Resonant Evil (Evol intent recordings / Barcode) John B ( ? ) Calyx (moving shadow) D-Kay (Freak Recordings) Most of the above labels operate under Technical Itch Recordings or Renegade Hardware(TOV) which is part of moving shadow. For some Hard / Extreamly well constructed, more europhoric stuff check... Black sun empire records (illskills, concord dawn, Rawthang etc) I do recomend you check Technical Itch - Soul Snatcher ..... Evilll !! If anyone lives near chatham in kent, and like this music, check the Tap'n'Tin on the last sat of every month. Myself and Mate Ross djing all of this + more! (www.TapnTin.co.uk) Ry (Y)

Hum, i would like to come, fancy a little journey... Is there anyone going from the kent area!? If everyone who says there going, definatly goes, then i might be up for the trip too. myself(ryan) and travis. and if i get a bike rack, maby 2 more??! Ryan (Y)

Dave Mirror did a backflip drop in off a 10ft wall with a sloped landing at the x-games (altho he did loose a foot on the pedal) he just rode along the top of the wall and when he bunnyhoped off it to land on the slope, he backflipped instead! i fort it was crazzy! Ry

Huh?? :lol: (Y)

surely though this will create horizontal lines (i don't actually no what this tool looks like, but i'm guessing its got a head with lots of either triangular points or horizontal lines on it?). if so then spinning the wheel with this tool on it will give horizontal lines which will probally make no difference to the braking surface. you need to have Vertical lines!! ?? Ry :huh:

i used to run disk on the rear, Hope enduro 4. i loved it for the fact i could tare down steep hills doing manuals and it was so easy to control the bike, through the modulation of the brake. it locked pretty good when back wheeling and gaping etc. but it did like to loosen my spokes here and there and tended to get landed on sometimes! i wouldn't recomend it for trials use (well, maybe natural comps, but not street) as your pretty much guaranteed to snap off the top brake mount on the frame. expecially if your trying to back wheel something, then blunting back off backwards and landing with the brake on. It took me a lot of persuading to get me to leave my disk and goto maggy, but now i have, i wont go back. The lock and on/off feel of the brake , i find is very re-assuring and gives me confidence to do bigger stuff knowing it wont slip! Ry :huh:

If your willing to spend a good hour and half grinding your wheel, then get a Dremol ! they'll give you a better more accurate and tidyer finish than and angle grinder and there also Super useful for loads of other stuff, like polishing, drilling, Smoothing in the scratches in your crank arms and bashguard! But it will take ages to grind a rim with one. I love dremols, there like Soldiering irons -something you don't perticually need but just got to have! lol Ry :huh:

Lol, thats ok mate! i'm the kinda person that takes their brakes very seriously, so a 1% improvement in break power to me makes all the difference!! lol i'm just trying to find the right combination of setup/braking surfaces. I do no what you mean though about the 'Tar' Situation though... I still use it as a party trick when kids come up to me and say 'Ryan... Can you make my brakes work please!' ,So slap on a bita tar and there forever amazed/greatfull! hehe! Peace man! Ry :huh: