wayneone

Ahh excelent thank you very much.

Is there a website for Rb stuff? Or can you only buy though other sites like tarty ect? Id like to have a look at there levers boosters ect.

I first saw a group of riders around 4 years ago doing it, one of which was my mates older brother so my mate told me about trials ect, Straight away i wanted to do it but sort of never got into it as i was only 14 and didnt have a clue about bikes or any money. Anyway about a year ago my bike broke and i got a new trialsy sort of frame for crimbo, which put me back into the trials frame and eventualy i thought im going to get a proper trials bike and get serious which i did. What makes things better i met one of the riders that i saw all them years ago on friday and were going out tomorrow (Y). Search phil feeney on google first link download his vid quality shit.

Nothing! my girlfriend is out at a mates birthday party, parents are going to the local fireworks display, id go but i dont like a load of people that go(last year it kicked off and i was in a fight) so i wont be bothering to go this year. Hopefully ill go for a little ride.

Yeah but the 2005 ones are a lot better the one you snapped was the old 2004 edition. I have a 2.5 rear tyre and a onza ronnie rim fits in fine with plenty of clearance to boot.

Mine did this, and i think there starting again. The problem was the black things(known as c clip washers) wernt set right. What you have to do is make sure theres none of the c clips exposed after you have tightened up the bolts and make sure the slit is either pointing up or down so it matches the 2 joins of the mounts. (i know this is hard ill try and post a picture) Edit- one crude paint diagram... Try getting some new c-clips, folded up creased ones are harder to work with.

Does it have to be a Koxx one? becuase tartybikes sell dmr ones in blue. Halfords sell blue lizzard skins. I like the sound of the armordildo i might buy one are they heavy?

To the rescue! http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/contents.htm **Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done. Turn the bike over and do the other lever. Taaa-Daaaa!! You've done a Quickbleed - but to be perfectly honest it takes about as much time as the full bleed. It's just easier to do if your on your own.

How does the armordildo (Y) stop your frame from denting? isnt it just a lizzard skin in a different place?

I ride xc on sundays. I go out with my step dad uncle and a mate we do about 30-40 miles, most we done was 42 miles. And my top speed is 41.4mph! Planning to do the london to brighton bike race next year.

Poor mans lizzardskins... Cut up a old innertube,Slime liner or Cloth and tape it on using eletrical tape. Just use lots of tape. Or use lots of shoe laces. Or if you want neoprene you can dig out one of them old pencil cases made out of the stuff and chop it up.

Book mark this page http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/contents.htm loads of infomation about magura rim and disk brakes.

Took me about 3-4 weeks(riding 2-3 times a week) to get it, But im still not overly good at it.

So theres no piston difference?(To kick-this) Then whats our mate bikerdude talking about?

Ahh ash another bleed virgin lol :- Im not to knolegeable on disk brakes but i try to put in from what i learn.

I run hs-33 2005 front and rear, Original bleed(Go on slate me :-) Zoo! pads(rear) and Heatsink blues(front) i personaly think there great. Alot of people run a front hydro disk, its rare to see a rear disk becuase your likley to bend or break it when performing trials moves like sidehops for example. You have the Saracen 2six right? Id say get a magura hs-33 for the rear and for the front its personal preference(and your wallet size) either a good v-brake(avid,xtr),A good disk(Hope,Magura louise) or a magura hs-33. And as for the 2005 hs-33 being "shit" i dont aggree i have some 1998(oldskool B)) on my xc/commute bike, i much prefere the levers to the 2005 ones, Whats the difference to the pistions? i cant tell the difference to be honest, Didnt magura claim to have upgraded them some how?

Quality stuff mate. Them kids in the background where they like "oh shit, did you see that hes crazy" when you landed that?

Alterain cycles Thats where i found the cheap bleed kit, They also sell royal blood(1lr) for £19.99.

I need a New magura mini service kit the cheapest i can find them for is £19.99 anyone find a cheaper one? This is for my xc/commute bike which i use magura blood in so no water replys please. All my lbs's sell them for £30 so no luck there.

Agreed, just another thing they can "throw" in to make them more appealing(sp?) to regular trials folk.

Taken from the mgura cult homepage http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/contents.htm Q - One of my pads at the rear doesn't retract fully. Why? A. This is a biggie and it gives lots of people problems! You have your pad adjuster (TPA on HS-33's or allen screw on HS-22's) screwed in too far. This is just a weird characteristic of hydraulic brakes. Screw the pad adjuster all the way out and try again. The pad retracts now? Good - then make the major adjustment of moving the slave cylinder inwards by loosening the Evolution Adaptor brackets. These brackets may be switched side-to-side to get more adjustment.

You right the straps dont look too good but the concept on them is good. (Supost to keep laces out of your chain)

There more "flicky" so easyer to spin, bunnyhop and generaly throw about. Use the search on this mate theres loads about it :- .

Well i just wanted to tighten it up because it was clicking but i might just grease the inside of it and see how it goes, pictures err yeah next time i take it off ill email you them? better than reposting on here right. its a truvative bb standard to the bike, so if you know anyone on the m.a.d team you could ask them better than reposting on here right.

Quick spider i just want to tighten it up a little. I dont understand how this works becuase i alredy had the lock ring off and it seemed to have nothing to do with the bb, how does that tool take out/put in the bb? and yes i have truvative bb. But i can see how the 20 prong one works, the "teeth" grab the splines and undo it as you turn it.