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Rear Maggie


trialsmax04

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My rear maggie is really f***ing me off.

The cross over split, so i took it off and replaced it. When i bleed it with oil, and set up the slaves right, there just isnt any hold. The lever comes all the way into the bar. even with the TPA fully ajusted :angry: . Can anyone please shed any light onto whats up, as i really dont want to shell out for a new maggie.

Cheers

Max

P.s its a 2003 magie HS33.

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i found the simplest way to do it and get it spot on every time it to put it under the water, take both bolts out then pump the lever untill it appears no more air is coming out.

chances are there will be though, so...pull the lever, and while you have it pulled put your finger over ther bleed hole on the slave (bit where the pad goes in) then the go of the lever, whilst still covering the hole, the take finger off the hole, i found this helps as it sucks in water then forced the air out the other end when you take your finger off, also put the bolt back in the brake while its still under the water so thers no shance of air getting in ther anywhere (Y)

should be ok, if not u might have a small leak somewhere.

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i found the simplest way to do it and get it spot on every time it to put it under the water, take both bolts out then pump the lever untill it appears no more air is coming out.

chances are there will be though, so...pull the lever, and while you have it pulled put your finger over ther bleed hole on the slave (bit where the pad goes in) then the go of the lever, whilst still covering the hole, the take finger off the hole, i found this helps as it sucks in water then forced the air out the other end when you take your finger off, also put the bolt back in the brake while its still under the water so thers no shance of air getting in ther anywhere (Y)

should be ok, if not u might have a small leak somewhere.

I found doing every thing underwater helps as well. (Putting all the srews back in. So you cant get no air in the maggy at all.)

There is a Wiki part to this web site, On how to bleed your brakes, So if you follow it you cant wrong!

Daz.

Edit: Make sure your TPA is unsrewed as well.

Edited by Cresswell_d
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First of all are you sure you have no breaks in the hose, the hose is all screwed in correctly and there are no leaks anywhere? If so use oil and a syringe rather than water to bleed the brake.

1 - Fill the syringe with oil and get all of the air out of it.

2 - Remove the bleed bolt on the lever and screw in the syringe (tighten with a spanner to stop it coming loose).

3 - Remove the bleed bolt at the slave and attach the other peice of hose.

4 - Compress the syringe until the fresh oil starts coming out of the lover tube.

5 - Remove the lower tube and refit the bleed bolt.

6 - Squeeze the brake lever and release it a few times while flicking the tubing/lever etc. A few air bubbles should be leaked into the syringe.

7 - Keep the syringe in a vertical position to stop the bubbles re-entering the brake, compress the syringe until you start to see the pistons move.

8 - Remove the syringe and refit the bleed bolt. Squeeze the lever and see how it responds.

I find it often help to repeat the process attaching the syringe to the slave as the bubbles will float to the top of the oil (i.e. the lever) making them easier to remove. This process should be done with the brake in situ as it keeps the lever higher than the slave and the hose straight.

Use shimano mineral oil or citroen oil for best results. I use cooking oil which is a bit slow but I am going to try baby oil as I hear that it works quite well and is still quite cheap.

The problem with water is that it does not lubricate the seals, it can go stale and the brakes are not designed for it so are more likely to develop a leak. Also it can freeze in the winter unless you use a mixture of water and antifreeze which is not great for the seals. However as said it is easier to bleed and feels more responsive.

Edited by sstein
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First of all are you sure you have no breaks in the hose, the hose is all screwed in correctly and there are no leaks anywhere? If so use oil and a syringe rather than water to bleed the brake.

1 - Fill the syringe with oil and get all of the air out of it.

2 - Remove the bleed bolt on the lever and screw in the syringe (tighten with a spanner to stop it coming loose).

3 - Remove the bleed bolt at the slave and attach the other peice of hose.

4 - Compress the syringe until the fresh oil starts coming out of the lover tube.

5 - Remove the lower tube and refit the bleed bolt.

6 - Squeeze the brake lever and release it a few times while flicking the tubing/lever etc. A few air bubbles should be leaked into the syringe.

7 - Keep the syringe in a vertical position to stop the bubbles re-entering the brake, compress the syringe until you start to see the pistons move.

8 - Remove the syringe and refit the bleed bolt. Squeeze the lever and see how it responds.

The problem with water is that it does not lubricate the seals, it can go stale and the brakes are not designed for it so are more likely to develop a leak. Also it can freeze in the winter unless you use a mixture of water and antifreeze which is not great for the seals. However as said it is easier to bleed and feels more responsive.

Ive always bled from the lowest point (slaves) and vented at the highest (lever) more chance of trapping air in the lever the other way round.

Im still running my water/antifreeze/oil/washing up liquid emulsion and its still perfect after 6 weeks, slaves are lubricated fine. With a plain water bleed I used to get sticky pistons every couple of weeks, I am running very old slaves (10-12 years) though :)

Edited by forteh
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Ive always bled from the lowest point (slaves) and vented at the highest (lever) more chance of trapping air in the lever the other way round.

Im still running my water/antifreeze/oil/washing up liquid emulsion and its still perfect after 6 weeks, slaves are lubricated fine. With a plain water bleed I used to get sticky pistons every couple of weeks, I am running very old slaves (10-12 years) though :)

First of all are you sure you have no breaks in the hose, the hose is all screwed in correctly and there are no leaks anywhere? If so use oil and a syringe rather than water to bleed the brake.

1 - Fill the syringe with oil and get all of the air out of it.

2 - Remove the bleed bolt on the lever and screw in the syringe (tighten with a spanner to stop it coming loose).

3 - Remove the bleed bolt at the slave and attach the other peice of hose.

4 - Compress the syringe until the fresh oil starts coming out of the lover tube.

5 - Remove the lower tube and refit the bleed bolt.

6 - Squeeze the brake lever and release it a few times while flicking the tubing/lever etc. A few air bubbles should be leaked into the syringe.

7 - Keep the syringe in a vertical position to stop the bubbles re-entering the brake, compress the syringe until you start to see the pistons move.

8 - Remove the syringe and refit the bleed bolt. Squeeze the lever and see how it responds.

I find it often help to repeat the process attaching the syringe to the slave as the bubbles will float to the top of the oil (i.e. the lever) making them easier to remove. This process should be done with the brake in situ as it keeps the lever higher than the slave and the hose straight.

Use shimano mineral oil or citroen oil for best results. I use cooking oil which is a bit slow but I am going to try baby oil as I hear that it works quite well and is still quite cheap.

The problem with water is that it does not lubricate the seals, it can go stale and the brakes are not designed for it so are more likely to develop a leak. Also it can freeze in the winter unless you use a mixture of water and antifreeze which is not great for the seals. However as said it is easier to bleed and feels more responsive.

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Cheers for all the help guys.

Just realised that the lever body was infact a front lever. So when i bled it, the air couldnt escape properly because the top bleed hole is in the wrong place. Even when the lever was positioned upwards.

Again thanks for all the help.

Max

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