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Hope Bleed Theory!


Borat

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Easy guys.

My hope needs a decent bleed, and last time, I tried the hope website method.

But I have though about 2 more things:

1. Using a syringe from the bottom?

2. Taking off the resevior cap and diaphram and pumping, getting the air up and refilling the resevior fully?

Could someone elaborate me with what would/woulnd't work with both ways.

Thanks, Jack.

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I had to bleed my hope brakes a while back but decided to get one of the hope bleed kits (someone had a new one on ebay for £20) I was going to do it the same way they showed me on the web site and thought the bleed kit would just be extra things I needed to do it that way, but it turns out the system is completely different, it has different attachments for different hope levers to make a proper seal on the lever then you've gotta link the system up to an inner tube with 30 psi in it and it pressurizes the system and pushes the oil round the system and the air out, pull the lever a couple of time as the pressure pushes the oil through and it's sorted in 5 minutes. The pressure from the inner tube flushes all the air bubbles out and your done in no time, well worth the investment.

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I've found that the best way is to do it from the bottom. Take the reservoir cap off, push a shit load of oil through(flicking the hose with your finger to release any trapped air), do the bottom bleed nipple up, and roll the diaphram in as they do in the tutorials. :)

Glad someone asked this question as im now also about to bleed both my hope brakes with dot 4. Ive tryed so mant times to get a half decent bleed when first filling the reservior and opening and closing the bleed nipple, but this always leaves my brakes fealing spongy. So like you i was thinking of bleeding from bottom upwards. Also would running maggie slaves off a hope mini lever work, I think iv seen this posted somewhere on the forum before but i would like confermation really .Would be useing same bleed tecnique as stated above for both brakes.

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Glad someone asked this question as im now also about to bleed both my hope brakes with dot 4. Ive tryed so mant times to get a half decent bleed when first filling the reservior and opening and closing the bleed nipple, but this always leaves my brakes fealing spongy. So like you i was thinking of bleeding from bottom upwards. Also would running maggie slaves off a hope mini lever work, I think iv seen this posted somewhere on the forum before but i would like confermation really .Would be useing same bleed tecnique as stated above for both brakes.

im 99% certain that you cant run the mags with a hope lever, somthing to do with the hope being an open system and the mags a closed? really wanted to do the same as im not liking the hs33 lever anywhere near as much as the hope.

still...i wouldnt mind someone posting the theory behind it, im pretty curious.

Edited by chris4stars
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You can not run a hope lever with magura slave cylinders, firstly the magura slaves run on mineral oil and the hope lever uses DOT fluid, if you were to use the hope lever the mineral oil would screw the seals and if you were to use DOT witht he magura slaves the seals would die. Secondly the piston ratios would be way out, in theory you would get a much more powerfull brake as the hope lever piston is much smaller than the magura lever piston, but this would mean that you would need to set the brake pads up extremly close to the rim, which is not feasable. The open/closed system would not make a huge difference if you were to use the hope lever on the magura cylinders, but it is not needed, the reason for the open systems on disc brakes is to allow space in the resivour for when the oil heats up and expands due to the huge amount heat produced by a disc brake, and also to allow the brake to automaticaly adjust the pistons as the pads wear.

So yeh, you can not run a hope lever with magura slave cylinders.

As for bleeding the brakes from the bottom up, i can not see any reason why it would not work, it might just be abit more messy as the oil spills over from the resivour.....

Adam

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Can we try and keep on topic, thanks.

best advice I can give is to buy a bleed kit and have a perfect bleed in 5 minutes, fast and clean (do it in your living room if you want) and perfectly bled brake time and time again

Edited by japslap
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What if, I were to leave the pistons where they are, take a lighter to the cable (it's braidied) and quickly work my way up from the caliper straight to the lever heating up the oil which would be heating up the trapped bubbles of air (hot air rises) also tapping it too. Then taking off the cap and diaphram and top that up?

What havoc would that cause?

Thanks.

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I always bleed from the caliper up, the trick I find to a good bleed on hopes is when you think its all bled with no more air coming out. With the resivoir near full just flick the lever in and out a load of times (like pulling it with index and middle finger alternately quickly). You will see some more small bubbles coming through the transfer port. Keep doing this until they stop coming out and it should feel pretty good!

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I always bleed from the caliper up, the trick I find to a good bleed on hopes is when you think its all bled with no more air coming out. With the resivoir near full just flick the lever in and out a load of times (like pulling it with index and middle finger alternately quickly). You will see some more small bubbles coming through the transfer port. Keep doing this until they stop coming out and it should feel pretty good!

But I don't have the pipe big enough for my hope, only for maggie?

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I like the good old filling the resevoir up, undoing the bleed nipple on the caliper, pulling the lever and while its pulled, close the bleed nipple and let go of the lever.....this sucks the fluid through the brake (and repeat), I have never failed to get a perfect bleed this way and its quicker than a maggie!

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Ive brought a bleed kit but ive only used it once and that was ages ago so i cant remember can anyone tell me how to use the hope bleed kit.

I normally use alis idea

Remove the top cap with seal and pads

Attach the adapted sealed top cap with the hose on it that goes to the bottle (where you put you oil)

Add the oil to the bottle above

open the bleed nipple

Push the pistons in fully

Insert a block/piece of wood to stop the pistons moving out while bleeding

Attach the bleed nipple pipe which leads to the empty bottle (make sure the bleed nipple is as vertical as possible position (remove one screw that mounts the calliper if needed so that you can point it up))

Attach the valve to an inner tube with 30psi

Watch as it pressurises the system and pushes the oil around the system and out the bleed nipple

Pump the lever a few times slowly until the pressure pushes any traped air out the bleed nipple (should be 3 - 5 slow lever pumps)

Close the bleed nipple

Remove the adapted top cap and seal

Replace with top cap with seal

Wipe down

Turn the calliper upside down (as there is still a bit of oil in it at the top of the bleed nipple) and wipe

Replace pads

Replace wheel and pump the lever slowly until the pads align and centre properly

I found that using the bleed kit works best from a completely dry system-maybe after you've serviced your calliper and there is no oil in the system at all.

Edited by japslap
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