onzaskull Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I have had my Be-greens on for a couple of days with a new grind, i have been dragging my brake whilst riding to try and make them bed in quicker, but they dont seem to be making any sound at all and arn't holding as well as i'd like. Anybody had the same problem? any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlperkins Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I would just percivere (spelling?) and eventually they will get better. get them set up, leave them alone and keep your grind sharp. also make sure that the pad surface isn't covered with aluminium off your rim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p_ruskin Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 pads take time to bed in mate, just leave them like i said and bleed your brake properly and it will be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0zzy Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 make sure they hit square, give it some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Does anyone else on here find that rim brake pads don't need running in for longer than a few minutes? That is of course if they are hitting square on the rim. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials26 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Hi Yeah I have found they don't take much time to bed in either? I thought it was just me as I have recently converted from standard(ish) magura pads and tar (and on maybe a dead grind) to the newer type of pads available suchas the TNN's / heatsinks - so naturally I'm stunned at the difference haha. Like others had said, I'd also support in ensuring the pads are bang on square with the rim (in all directions) also, might be worth looking that each pad either side is hitting the rim at roughly if not almost exactly the same time, and for me after a couple of whiz's round a car park and some skids, should be fine? Hope your happy with them soon Cheers Barry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Does anyone else on here find that rim brake pads don't need running in for longer than a few minutes? That is of course if they are hitting square on the rim. +1 my pads always seem to work straight from the packet. When I got my LGMs I installed them in my Uni room and 2 mins later had people running into my room asking wtf that noise was lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) +1 my pads always seem to work straight from the packet. When I got my LGMs I installed them in my Uni room and 2 mins later had people running into my room asking wtf that noise was lol! +2 only thing I'd say is that some times the pads may hit square bu the pad itself may not be totally flat, or the side wall may have a slight radius to it, I reckon it don't take that much to have a worse brake Edited January 18, 2012 by dave33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 i thought this was o topic about disc pads then, rim brakes dont have a bed in like discs do, all you need to do is line them up correctly so they hit the rim dead on flat. bedding is the pads is basicly wearing down the pad surface so all the pad touches the breaking suface all at once. most rim brakes will do this at the 1st time the brake is applyed (its all down to getting the angle, height and twist adjustments all spot on)keep a good fresh grind on the rim if you use grinding. disc brakes ware the disc much differently to rims, the outer edges of the disc are coller to the centre and ware out at different rates, older discs will take longer to bed in to newer discs. most disc brakes will take from new 3-4 aplacations of the brake, older discs will take anything upto 3-4 times more aplacations. to check if your disc is worn check the centre of the surface is not concave (thiner in the centre and thicker on the outside edge and inside edge. any how you will feel your brake is not working as well as expected. common problems are: incorectly adjusted pad to rim contact. ( be aware to adjust the pad contact winder all the way in before adjusting the 4 point mounts) old used unsharp grind, check with your finger by rubbing the rim, a good grind will feel sharp and a bad one you will be able to push your finger hard on the rim and slide your finger without tearing or sort of fileing your finger. and the last would be a brake in need of fresh oil or more oil. old oil will be unclear and black in colour, it will slowly cause the brakes to seaze and fail. low oil will make the brake feel spongy and the lever will hit the bar before stopping the wheel.if you wind out the adjuster and tap the lever you should see the pads move even on the slightest lever movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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