Adam-Griffin Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 (edited) Picked this up this morning, first downhill/free ride bike I've ever owned so It'll most deffinately do for now. Been out on it twice now for about an hour each time, and i can honestly say I've never had more fun on a bike.. I'm having a few issues with the rear mech, but apart from that and the fact that i cannot for the life me get the grips off it seems pretty perfect so far! Spec is, to the best of my knowledge: Kona Coilair frame Marzzochi Junior T's Dmr stem Sunline bars Race face cranks Shimano olivio rear mech Fox shock Hope M4's Superstar hubs, can't remember what rims.. Tioga factory Dh tyres Edited June 1, 2012 by Adam-Griffin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weirdoku Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 MTX rims? Shape looks like em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam-Griffin Posted May 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 Yeah you're right, just check the ad from where i bought it and thats what they are. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam-Griffin Posted June 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 The rear M4 is making an awful screeching sound when i first use it, after 10 minutes or so it stops. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leistonbmx Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Rotor getting damp? My discs make a f**k load of noise when they're wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Not to be pedantic but thats a Coiler rather than a Coilair, from 04 or earlier. It probably warrants a slightly better drivetrain than Alivio - the new SLX stuff is very tough and would suit the bike well. I used to have a Coiler and whilst I don't miss it one bit they sure are put together strong. The tubing thickness is ridiculously thick so it'll last you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_malcolm Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 my rear atomlab brake occasionally squeals at the start of a ride then stops when some heats in it. Does it feel like its working correctly? tried re centring it or cleaning the pads up could just be a slight contamination of hitting at a bit of angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam-Griffin Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Rotor getting damp? My discs make a f**k load of noise when they're wet. Might be this actually, although i have a feeling the pads may be contaminated. Not to be pedantic but thats a Coiler rather than a Coilair, from 04 or earlier. It probably warrants a slightly better drivetrain than Alivio - the new SLX stuff is very tough and would suit the bike well. I used to have a Coiler and whilst I don't miss it one bit they sure are put together strong. The tubing thickness is ridiculously thick so it'll last you. Yeah you're right, coilair just sounds cooler haha. I'm planning on upgrading the drive train pretty soon actually, will deffinately have a look at the SLX stuff, thanks my rear atomlab brake occasionally squeals at the start of a ride then stops when some heats in it. Does it feel like its working correctly? tried re centring it or cleaning the pads up could just be a slight contamination of hitting at a bit of angle. The first time I pull it theirs absolutely no power at all, lever to the bars and it's barely working at all. Takes about 3-5 pulls before it works but then it goes from no power, to pretty much full power straight away... How would i go about cleaning the pads/rotor up? Went out on it last night and all of a sudden something felt really odd in the cranks/chain device/Bottom bracket department. Got home and had a look, and it seems the pivot bolt (i guess thats what it's called?) on the rear swing arm has lost a spacer, any ideas where i'd get a new one? Also is there any chance the issue i'm having with the gears could be because I have a 9spd cassette, but only a 7spd shifter? Also noticed the chain device is f**ked, needs replacing. Last thing; Theirs two mounting holes on the bottom of my frame for the rear shock, one is slightly higher up and more forward than the other, what difference would each one make to how the bike rides? Sorry for all the questions, some of them probably seem pretty stupid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) Also is there any chance the issue i'm having with the gears could be because I have a 9spd cassette, but only a 7spd shifter? Yes! The shifter will be indexed to pull/release a certain amount of cable that corresponds to the spacing between the gears on the same speed cassette. I.e. the gaps between a 7 speed cassette are larger (less gears on the same width cassette) and as such the amount of cable released/pulled will match; hence mismatched gears and cassettes aren't a good idea. Edited June 5, 2012 by craigjames Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam-Griffin Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I thought that might be the case, never really bothered to check anything like that when i picked it up haha. It could do with a new shifter anyway, so not a real issue. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 The first time I pull it theirs absolutely no power at all, lever to the bars and it's barely working at all. Takes about 3-5 pulls before it works but then it goes from no power, to pretty much full power straight away. It needs bleeding. Last thing; Theirs two mounting holes on the bottom of my frame for the rear shock, one is slightly higher up and more forward than the other, what difference would each one make to how the bike rides? Apparently the front hole gives a linear stroke rate, whereas the rear setting gives a more progressive rate (stiffer towards the end of travel). I dunno whether you'll actually notice a difference, but try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_malcolm Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 rear shock mount spacers you should be able to find complete kits on ebay with bearing and everything, if the spacers given up then pretty good chance you'll want to do the bearings aswell. Pads I believe some one please correct me if im wrong, but some corse sandpaper on the pads should clear anything up if its not to bad and the rotor get some brake cleaner on there and give it a good rub with a nice clean piece of cloth maybe do this more then once. also as has been said about the lever pulling to the bars it needs a bleed or you might be able to get away with just topping it up but I would go for the full re bleed option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam-Griffin Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 It needs bleeding. Apparently the front hole gives a linear stroke rate, whereas the rear setting gives a more progressive rate (stiffer towards the end of travel). I dunno whether you'll actually notice a difference, but try it out. Tried it out, feels pretty odd so i changed it back haha. rear shock mount spacers you should be able to find complete kits on ebay with bearing and everything, if the spacers given up then pretty good chance you'll want to do the bearings aswell. Pads I believe some one please correct me if im wrong, but some corse sandpaper on the pads should clear anything up if its not to bad and the rotor get some brake cleaner on there and give it a good rub with a nice clean piece of cloth maybe do this more then once. also as has been said about the lever pulling to the bars it needs a bleed or you might be able to get away with just topping it up but I would go for the full re bleed option. Had a look and all the bearings actually seem ok, it's just the pivot bolt thats rounded, and the spacer(s) that sit in between where the swing arm mounts to the bearings, hence the rocking movement Can't find the kit anywhere either, crc don't stock the one for the 2005 model. Super annoying, don't really know what else to do haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_malcolm Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 bit of a long shot but try getting hold of paligap uk they were kona's importer for years but arent any more, may have some old stock or know whos the best place to go to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunnyBoy Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 I had a similar problem with one of the rear sus bearing spacers on my DH when I first got it. It was an old model of frame so no cycle shops stocked any parts. In the end I asked a bike shop to turn down and drill out a newer version of the part to fit. I don't know that many bike shops with a decent amount of workshop tooling though and can't for the life of me remember which bikeshop I rang, but might be worth ringing around. Kona frame are also pretty common so hopefully that should help in finding parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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