Chainline and thread worries.

[Herbertlemon102]

Hey all, need some reassurance here. since I run a 110mm hope pro2 evo ss (40t, wahey!) because of that unique setup to get my chainline anywhere near acceptable with an 128mm bb, I have to put a few spacers on the cranks. (No, I can't move the rear sprocket, just fyi.) to get the chainline within any reason, the amount of spacers required on the cranks means I have just over 6mm of thread available for the sprocket. The warranty on the cranks is void of you use any less than 7mm, I'm not bothered about void warranty but from any experience, will this cause a problem? I'm light so I dont think it will, and I'm hoping that warranty info is just to stop people using stupid figures like 3 mil of thread. The setup is: 

Tt sl cranks

Tt sl bash

tt sprocket 

Tt sl bb.

and here's a picture.

 

Edited February 5, 2016 by Herbertlemon102

[Scott Gibbs]

Remove the bash from the crank and run it on the BB?

[Herbertlemon102]

2 minutes ago, Scott Gibbs said:

Remove the bash from the crank and run it on the BB?

Already got a bash on the Bb, not enough thread on the opposing bb cup. 

[Mark W]

It's not so much that the warranty is void, it's more of a "The threads are very likely to eat shit if you do this, so how about you don't" kind of warning   

How 'out' is your chainline?  They can generally be pretty way out and it shouldn't be much of an issue.  Also, are you on a 3/32" or 1/8" chain?  The extra sideways movement on your freewheel and sprocket from a 1/8" chain might help out a little.

[Herbertlemon102]

8 minutes ago, Mark W said:

It's not so much that the warranty is void, it's more of a "The threads are very likely to eat shit if you do this, so how about you don't" kind of warning   

How 'out' is your chainline?  They can generally be pretty way out and it shouldn't be much of an issue.  Also, are you on a 3/32" or 1/8" chain?  The extra sideways movement on your freewheel and sprocket from a 1/8" chain might help out a little.

That's what I was worried about. And quite a long way out, kmc z510 (not too far out with the current spacing, but use any less spacers on the cranks ands it's pretty horrendous, funny how so little has such an effect)

Edited February 5, 2016 by Herbertlemon102

[Herbertlemon102]

Update: removed spacer, back to glorious, shit chainline, 7.1mm thread action.

[Mark W]

If you just keep an eye on your chain things should be OK really.  From experience of running horrendously bad chainline setups they usually fail by splaying open around the pins, and you can usually catch them early if you check them from time to time.

[CC12345678910]

@Herbertlemon102 So in the photo above you have (from left to right):

Crankarm/silver (Trialtech Ti?) bash/gold spacer/sprocket/bb cup/another bash (acting as a bb spacer?)/ the BB shell.

And you have done this because you cannot move the chainline towards the seatstay (or away from the spokes is you prefer) because of the cutdown driver, correct?

Have you tried removing both the gold and the black BB bash? So It would go

Crankarm/silver bash/sprocket/bb cup/bb shell   a more conventional arrangement

I don't mean to be a dick but this seems the most obvious setup, enlighten me if I've missed something by all means :-]

Also why do you have to run a 128mm BB anyway, you don't need the extra clearance cos you've no FFW so you can use a 118mm isis BB from a MTB (what i've done on my mod pro2 setup) or a 122.5 try-all/reset or a 124mm like the FSA platinum out of a Monty M5.

Edited February 5, 2016 by CC12345678910

[Herbertlemon102]

7 hours ago, CC12345678910 said:

@Herbertlemon102 So in the photo above you have (from left to right):

Crankarm/silver (Trialtech Ti?) bash/gold spacer/sprocket/bb cup/another bash (acting as a bb spacer?)/ the BB shell.

And you have done this because you cannot move the chainline towards the seatstay (or away from the spokes is you prefer) because of the cutdown driver, correct?

Have you tried removing both the gold and the black BB bash? So It would go

Crankarm/silver bash/sprocket/bb cup/bb shell   a more conventional arrangement

I don't mean to be a dick but this seems the most obvious setup, enlighten me if I've missed something by all means :-]

Also why do you have to run a 128mm BB anyway, you don't need the extra clearance cos you've no FFW so you can use a 118mm isis BB from a MTB (what i've done on my mod pro2 setup) or a 122.5 try-all/reset or a 124mm like the FSA platinum out of a Monty M5.

That bash was there before the one on the cranks was, but yeah essentially a spacer. Remove it and the opposing bb cup doesn't screw in anywhere near enough to be called safe haha. From the Bb itself, I'm a bit OCD and in terms of actual Bbs this one is pretty much unbeatable, so I don't want anything else. I can live with the chainline I just wanted to know if I could make it any better  

edit: ive also had two 118mm bbs and broken both in a short period of time, one was a reset.  

Edited February 6, 2016 by Herbertlemon102