Rip Posted November 7, 2021 Report Share Posted November 7, 2021 I've borrowed these two clips from @Ali C's YT channel so hopefully you don't mind but if you do just DM me and I'll remove them Move 1 - Not exactly sure what it's called but it's essentially a large side hop starting on the back wheel and also landing on the back wheel, the highest I can do these is about 12 inches lol so I need to know where the power comes from, is it a big squat and leg muscle burst or a very well timeed pedal kick, or both? Move 2 - Again I'm not all up the lingo so not sure what the cool term for this is but it's basiaclly swapping the front wheel for the back wheel using just the tinyiest bit of forward momentum, it's almost static but not quite. I also ride a Fourplay and struggle with these becasue it always feels like the back wheel is far too close to the obstacle to be able to get it up there without it bouncing of off the face of the obstacle. I pretty much can't even do these at all because of that reason, i usually end up doing exactly that and bouncing the back wheel off of the obstacle so I clearly have no idea how this technique works or where to start with it. I can happily pedal kick up something this size but i have to start a little further back to give myself the room to get the back wheel, as soon as I try to do it with front wheel already on top of the obstacle it all goes wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2021 This is probably a clearer view of the first move, I can't seem figure out where the height comes from: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted November 7, 2021 Report Share Posted November 7, 2021 1. Both. Pushing your arms away helps to lift the bike. 2. Maybe called a shunt? Depends on which riding group you're in, ha. Anyway the key is a short dab of pedal pressure. Basically just long enough to push off to jump, don't 'linger' on the pedal stroke. Again think about pushing arms away as well as lifting legs. Front wheel goes onto the obstacle as little as possible. When you get the timing it can be done off the corner instead of the top. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2021 4 minutes ago, Adam@TartyBikes said: 1. Both. Pushing your arms away helps to lift the bike. 2. Maybe called a shunt? Depends on which riding group you're in, ha. Anyway the key is a short dab of pedal pressure. Basically just long enough to push off to jump, don't 'linger' on the pedal stroke. Again think about pushing arms away as well as lifting legs. Front wheel goes onto the obstacle as little as possible. When you get the timing it can be done off the corner instead of the top. Thanks dude, I'll give it another go then while bearing those tips in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaderaMark Posted November 19, 2021 Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 I am also struggling on these type of moves. At 1 foot, I am so confident but more than that felt like hallucinating, can't commit, scared... 12kg street trials bike is not an excuse, it was me who has lots of things going on in my mind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maintenance Justice Posted November 19, 2021 Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 On 07/11/2021 at 2:10 PM, Rip said: Move 2... Wheel swap, replacement or 'Pigeon' if you're in the North of the UK apparently...best bit of advice I can impart for these that really helped me with the technique and upping the obstacle size was: 1 - When you're static with one wheel on the obstacle only use the front brake. You need to kick the pedal just a fraction as you throw your body weight up and arms forward to get the drive. Holding the rear brake stops this and actually works against you in getting the lift you need. 2 - Go slightly sideways with your weak foot facing in towads the obstacle. If you go straight on your back wheel has a lot of distance to travel to get onto the obstacle, if you're slightly sideways there is less distance for it to travel. Helped me a lot when replacing onto taller things. Hope that helps! On 07/11/2021 at 2:10 PM, Rip said: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rip Posted November 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 19 minutes ago, Maintenance Justice said: Wheel swap, replacement or 'Pigeon' if you're in the North of the UK apparently...best bit of advice I can impart for these that really helped me with the technique and upping the obstacle size was: 1 - When you're static with one wheel on the obstacle only use the front brake. You need to kick the pedal just a fraction as you throw your body weight up and arms forward to get the drive. Holding the rear brake stops this and actually works against you in getting the lift you need. 2 - Go slightly sideways with your weak foot facing in towads the obstacle. If you go straight on your back wheel has a lot of distance to travel to get onto the obstacle, if you're slightly sideways there is less distance for it to travel. Helped me a lot when replacing onto taller things. Hope that helps! Good tip about the rear brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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