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Loctite/threadlock


ScotchDave

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(Y) Alright everone, two threads in 3 days, not like me at all. :S

Any way I run tensiles, and trying to change my pedals my inserts came out, the back plates dissapeared a long time ago as well, so I need to thread lock them in.

I've tried superglue, but it was too weak, and I doubt the normal blue stuff will be strong enough so what's out there I can use? I believe there are stronger threadlocks available, any help much appreciated. (Y)

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call direct bearings and transmissions in pysons road, broadstairs, kent. they have about 16 different threadlocks, one is for locking pulley wheel bolts on tractors or something, reckon that'll work. cheap too (Y)

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45mins for mine, but I did it after 30 and it was plenty good enough... But yeah, the packet tells all. Just make sure you don't dribble any excess onto the pedal spindle or anything. Not ideal :P

Anyone else like the smell of Araldite, or is it just me? :S

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45mins for mine, but I did it after 30 and it was plenty good enough... But yeah, the packet tells all. Just make sure you don't dribble any excess onto the pedal spindle or anything. Not ideal :P

Anyone else like the smell of Araldite, or is it just me? :S

HAHA! you must be joking mark.

It smells awful :sick: and when it's been mixed up (resin+hardener) it looks like jism :P

But granted, It sticks funkin' anything to anything (Y):)

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To confirm, I'm using the one with a blue plunger and white tubes. Is that the one you used Mark?

If you bought the 24 HR curing one, It should be white tube of resin, and a blue tube of hardener?

Anything over 6 hours cure time will be fine :)

EDIT : You know Mark, when you mix it all up , It doesn't smell nice at all <_<

Edited by deanie-b
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At my day job, when the technicians are assembling machinery they use Loctite 638 if they don't want parts to be taken apart, 243 if they want it to hold but be serviceable.

If anyone find them cheaper than www.rswww.com then I'd be interested in knowing where. Expensive stuff glue or thread lock!

Steve

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QUOTE(deanie-b @ Apr 11 2006, 08:49 AM)

If you bought the 24 HR curing one, It should be white tube of resin, and a blue tube of hardener?

Anything over 6 hours cure time will be fine :)

EDIT : You know Mark, when you mix it all up , It doesn't smell nice at all <_<

Mine is a syringe with 2 tubes that are stuck together with a brige, just to be safe I'll leave it til tonight. (Y)

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Araldite is 24hr drying time i think, unless its 'araldite rapid' which takes 1 hour. When i used the rapid stuff to do a pad bodge it came off after no time :ermm: and i used loads. Maybe the surfaces were a bit dirty or something...

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Araldite is 24hr drying time i think, unless its 'araldite rapid' which takes 1 hour. When i used the rapid stuff to do a pad bodge it came off after no time :ermm: and i used loads. Maybe the surfaces were a bit dirty or something...

Or maybe it's better to be patient :P

The 1HR one is crap IMO (N)

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With Epoxies, the quicker to dry at room temperature stuff is always weaker :(

IPB Image

The one above is sold in my local supermarket, making it readily available and cheap. It is also very strong (Y) As you can see from the rear of the packet shown below, you can achieve the highest possible strength with this slow ambient cure epoxy, actually in a matter of minutes by popping the item you're glueing in the oven. If glueing materials with high enough melting temperatures, then you can whack the oven up all the way and acheive the max strength :)

IPB Image

As you can see, for this epoxy curing in a 180deg oven for 5 mins makes the bond 2.5x stronger than leaving it to cure at ambient for 12 hours. (ignore the red box!)

Despite the photos, I don't use Epoxy to hold any of my pads in anymore though.

Steve

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