Alex Dark

I'm 5 8" and ride a Coustellier V2 that measures up at 1110 with my forks

Here is the frame so far.....I'm thinking now it could do with pitbull 06 style "wings"? or do we think that would be a bit OTT?

erm... Plymouth, United Kingdom : 20

My tensile freewheels were ace....but i've only heard good things about the TR and SL echo freewheels. If i went FFW again It'd definitely be an echo now

Haha I'm excited to actually...ordering materials soon, I'll be starting work just after half term. Yup, that was a Koxx prototype and a Hoffman Bikes frame. Has anyone got any info on wall thickness?

Kona P2 forks...now discontinued I think. A quick google search may prove otherwise If they are as i suspect then Ebay or the wanted section here would be your best bet. Edit: Click here

Don't mind toptube graphics...downtube looks horrible though.

make a frame jig to hold each component of the frame. The solidworks model is built around a virtual jig so will give me all the tubing lengths too Okay, Topic bump. I now need to start ordering materials....has anyone got any other improvements for the frame? I'll put up some renderings tomorrow of the finished seat tube and reinforced brake mount area. In the mean time, I DESPERATELY need wall thicknesses for my frame. If anyone could shed any light on this, it would be a great help. Like the tubing thickness of a koxx, say, and an Adamant. I can then cad model this and get the weight to the target. Mainly I need to know the approximate ratios between wall thickness on different parts of the bike. Also, when a bike is reduced on weight...are all the tubing all over made thinner? or just specific areas? Cheers Alex.

Bike looks naiiice, sure it rides ace

Erm....I quite like the Viz hubs, no idea on price though. I'm sure the TT sealed hub is fairly decent too.

the hole in them is drilled to 10mm, the King bolts are 12mm. Thus they will not fit

Basically.....I've got a k710 kool at the moment, and was looking for a replacement as I've had this one for a bout a year now. According to loads of fixie websites the only reason chains break is where they are joined? Sooo, has anyone got any decent recommendations? I was thinking another kool chain or a KMC z610 hx. Does anyone know if the Z610 RB is any different to the HX apart from the rust proof coating? Cheers , Alex

Fair enough, just my two cents. Chances are you could sell that and buy a BB7 with some profit though.

100% go sealed.

I'd stock with the Louise...they seem to be damn good brakes, and almost certainly worth more than the BB7

Ah....well if you post them dow I could drill them for you and send back? I use the massive pillar drills at college. If you're interested give me a shout

Do it....90% of the people on the forum that use rim-brakes grind their rims. Most rims are good for AT LEAST 10 grinds or more...so it really is fine If you tak your time and practice on an old rim you'll do fine

Yesh, thought so...My hd axle is directly tapped learn something new everyday I suppose

Amazing, the coust CNC'd pads are the best I've tried. You won;t be dissapointed with a fresh grind Truth there is a video on Tarty on how to do this properly, but I can't for the life of me find it :|

Super abs

Decent weather and I'm game... Alex Dark

I use a t-master stem on me little t-pro with monty 22ti bars

fair enough, I thought they were tapped directly into it

If it's threaded then surely the axles buggered?

Vice ... pillar drill.....done. You could use a round file if you don't trust yourself with the above