Muel

They are CNC'd smithers. Just forged first. I'd go for either the Echos or the Trialtechs. Probably Echos I've had several pairs and they've been fine, and I think they look better. Don't put anything longer than 160 on a Mod, they feel wank with 170s, I'd imagine 160s too.

Been thinking and I've changed my mind to Yes. It's all about leverage ratios. Adding another caliper would have the same effect as halfing the lever piston area. This would move less fluid, but say the ratio was 2:1, it's now 4:1, so the leverage ratio would be doubled. The pad area has no real effect, because if you halved the lever piston area it would double the pressure on the pads, but beause instead you've added another caliper the pressure on each pad is the same, but becase there are 4 pads, theres double the overall pad surface pressure. I think.

If you're left foot foward, use the right foot to lift the front wheel though.

I've heard the wear rate wasn't amazing, but a week and a half! Maybe they just don't agree with normal-harsh grinds.

Yes you can, I've seen you! Alright we didn't do a fat lot of riding that day, but you still got the train all the way to matlock just to ride on some rocks.

Cheers, I was told it was a good idea to do it ages ago, just did mine and it's made a huge difference. The pads centered themselves in the caliper first time, so it was dead easy to get the disc in the middle of the caliper and not rubbing the pads. In the past I've found that Mono Trial brakes alwasy rub a bit because the pads never sat central to the slot for the rotor, but mine do now. Very important that it doesn't wobble as it spins, if it does then it will cause the piston to get polished more on one spot, which means you'll end up removing too much metal on that spot and it could start leaking.

Tarty also sell a caliper only seal kit if you want to go right through the whole thing. I would if I were you, saves having to strip the brake again when the caliper seals go.

Or you could have just asked when you order...

It's all down to personal preference. Go to a group ride and have a go on a few different bikes before you buy. I'd say you'd be better off with a stock though, I'm only 5'11 and I ride stock, when I started i was about 5'7-8 and rode mod.

About £400.

I always get this one: http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?produc...category_id=110 If you find the caliper pistons have corroded bits on them, like lines where the seals were sat, I'd definately polish the pistons up. Get a drill and a cloth, use the drill chuck to get hold of the piston where the magnet is, then check it's in the chuck straight (can't be wobbling around), fold up the cloth and put it on the edge of the work bench, stick some autosol on it and just hold the piston against it, keep checking to see when it's getting polished. Remember, you want to take as little metal off the pistons as possible while still polishing them to a mirror finish, so it's important you get it mounted in the drill chuck straight. You don't need it to be completely mirror finish, just shiney where the seals run, and you need to make sure that the corroded bits are polished flat. The problem with these brakes is that when the pistons corrode underneath the seals, (has happened on every mono trial I've had), the corroded bit makes the surface rough, which wears the seal out much faster. Polishing it not only makes it seal better, but reduces wear on the seal and also means that the piston can move in the seal more freely, so the pad wear adjustment is better. Also makes it more difficult for the piston to stick to the seal and stop one of the pads moving, which happens a lot if the piston has corroded. Big essay, but basically what I'm saying is I'd really recommend polishing the pistons. Doesn't sound like much but it makes a big difference.

Drill two shallow holes in the bolt with a 1mm drill bit about 3-4mm deep, and use some needle nose pliers to unscrew the remains. Centre punch it before you drill it though. I did it once, worked fine.

Yeh you can do that, I found that you need to have very skinny needle nosed pliers for that though, and mine weren't, so I had to do it the way I said. But yeh either will work. You'll have to rebleed anyway because to get the pushrod out of the lever, you have to relase the circlip holding it all in and the piston just comes out with the pushrod. If I were you and you're goig to have to have the lever apart anyway, I'd get a new seal kit and polish the pistons, makes the caliper adjust for pads wear correctly again and makes it easier to set up. I just went right through mine and it feels a lot nicer for it.

It's a b*****d of a job. You need to replace the pushrod, the easiest way I found is to get some long nose pliers, clamp the pushrod with them, undo the lever blade bolt and use the blade to undo the brass barrel, but you have to squeeze are hard as you can and just try to stop the pushrod spinning in the pliers.

Just a local hardware type store, yeh you just mix a load of crystals with a load of water. 250g in 4 litres of water or something like that.

Cheers guys! I've pinched it once, but it seems to be alright, sidewalls are getting scuffed already though and it's wearing a lot faster than I remember Maxxis tyres wearing. I suppose it's just because I'm used to Conti wear rates, I think I'll be getting a 2.2 rubber queen next.

Trialtech Foams, they last for ages, and won't move on the bar if you put them on right. EDIT: To get them to stick, get a pan scourer, make it wet with hot water, stick a load of washing up liquid on it and roll it up, then twist it inside the grip, then squeeze the sides of the grip onto it tighter and turn it to scurb the insides. Then put them on with a pump to expand them and let them slide on.

You screw them into the stripped threads, and what is left of the BB shell basically cuts a thread into the threadless BB. Not ideal for trials, from what I hear you can't get them very tight. You'd be better off spending the £20 on getting the frame reamed and sleeved, then sticking the old BB back in.

They were only for DMR V12s though, they don't fit in Wellgo MG-1s. I have MG-1s.

If anyone finds a source, I'd also think about buying a set. I hear they save about 70g over the standard ones.

They're custom frames, so you can specify what you want. (Within reason).

Well the only Web Designers on here that could help are JonMack, Simon, Bronz and possibly iCharlie. JonMack and Simon arn't regulars, Bronz is often willing to point people in the right direction but works full time so won't be able to help much, and iCharlie is on holiday at the moment, and he's really busy at the moment anyway. Best off asking on overclockers.co.uk forum in the HTML and Programming section, or going on a web design forum. I've done very little PHP, and nothing to do with databases or anything yet, so can't help I'm afraid.

They're not trials specific, they're XC specific.

Yeh I used caustic soda. Next time I need to be careful about leaving it on the rim as I work my way round though, as it dries it forms runs, which start corroding the aluminium. I reckon having another bucket of fresh water and rinsing each section straight after you've done it would give better results. Stil, they came out pretty well!