Muel

Have you got plastic backings? They tend to do that. Best bet is to turn the pads around so they wear straight again.

You've honestly never heard it before? It's used a fair bit on here and it normal conversation all the time lol. You need to come home JT and get out on the bike.

It's off topic dude. I've heard that used to describe 24s, actually, it's neither. They might be used by a few people, but almost no-one else has heard of it being used in either sense, so it's not really "slang". Modstock is used all the time though.

There is? Just get the bearing race moved 5mm further down the inside of the hub, that'll give you space for a proper lockring and you still keep all the bearings. Just get the race machined out when you get the thread cut into it.

Nice Matt! Progression is fantastic, I sidehopped 5 pallets today, I think when we met I couldn't even sidehop a curb. I think it's time you got another Zona though.

Matlock Quarry, closely followed by my back garden. (Because it's at the back of my house, and it's sick).

In 20 years time nothing will be real, we'll just be plugged into a computer like in the Matrix.

Bleeding it with water or mineral oil?

What is the brake for a start?

Cheers, I try. Yeh shouldn't be a problem, unless they can't mount it true, depends if the drive shell was machined all in one job or in two, looking at it is may have been done in two so they may struggle, but it's not impossible. No idea what the thread sizes are though, but I did have a look with google but could only find the dimensions of a screw on sprocket thread.

Man up Jed, it's not dodgy if it's done properly, I measured it up last time I rebuilt my hub.

Yeh you'll never get the right tap, and if you do it'll cost a fortune. A lathe with auto feed is what you need. (You'll have to find out the exact mesurements of the thread needed first though. I'd be tempted to try heat treating and grinding some cutting teeth into a lockring as a makeshift tap, done it with BB shells before and it seemed to work alright.

I got some pics yesterday when rebuilding my mates Mono Trial, all being well I'll make a wiki article tommorrow.

Making the tool is a piece of piss, and you don't need to give it a lot of stick to get the bore cap in or out, you have to have used a file before but it's really not hard.

There is no best bike, it's a compromise between weight, stregnth, geometry, features and cost. The best bike for you is the one that ticks most boxes!

Nice vid Danny! Getting close to the big 5-0 now!!

Still can't clamp it up so it's true to the bore.

Lol, my vote validated that guy, I like this new system.

You've got to be a bit of a tard to not be able to bleed with a syringe, I've never had a problem...

I can't get the bore honed. Also theres no way of being certain if the bore is on the same plane as the rest of the lever, so you can't mount it up accurately.

Cheers Ross, I think the best bet will be to try polishing it out as it is and using a bigger O ring. Drilling never gives a perfectly round hole, and it's never the perfect diameter. (When you're talking engineering/sealing surfaces). The ideal solution would be to get it bored out and get a new piston made slightly bigger for it, but I can't get it done. I've got a pretty good idea of what will work, just interested to hear how other people have solved the same problem.

I've just got hold of, (I think), one of the first Echo levers, the one that leaked a lot due to the problem with the scored bore for the piston. Just wondered if anyone had succesfully sealed their's up? And if so, how? Would like very much to save and use it.

It arrived already Allen? How long until you can get it in?

It could have scuffed top end parts, or bottom end stuff. Get a full spec off him and post it.

Hate the paint job with a passion, those skulls! Looks like it's wearing a 90s bandana. Loving the rest of it though, looks really mean.