Muel

Jesus calm down mate! No-one insulted you, just pointed out why the validation system is neccesary and you went off on one! The forum is brilliant, it makes trials better, not worse. And no-ones bitching, if anything everyone holds back on here! Most forums I go on end up in argument way more often than this one. Calm down a bit, stop insulting people and you'll be validated in no time.

I find Windows Update carries most drivers now, so might be an idea doing an update. (You may have to do it several times, as some updates can't be done without others being done first).

Kot MS2? http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....howtopic=139374

I think Trials is growing in general, more and more people have heard of it now and I think theres enough world level riders for it to become an olympic sport, it certainly draws the crowds anyway. Anyway, hope you get some funding soon mate, see you soon.

You have to remember that the Contis use the Black Chilli compound, which last for ages. I estimated 3 times longer than a 42A maxxis tyre, but it's a very rough estimate.

380 stays you say? Have a look at my Simtra's chain line, it's got 380 stays, and if the rear wheel was 5mm further back then I reckon it'd be tight. Should be alright, if not you'd have to use a 14t sprocket.

It's just down to practice Max, when I started I'd already been riding motorbike trials for 2 years and it still took me about 2 years of bike trials to feel confident. Helps motorbike trials a lot though, I can trackstand my TY with the engine off now.

Nothing works on a dead grind in the wet, the only brakes that work in the wet, (in my experience), are fairly hard pads on a proper b*****d of a grind. Heatsink reds on a harsh grind on an echo rim is about the best I've tried.

With a 16t front, the ratios are kinda of in between if you run an 18. 18:16 is a 1:1.125 ratio. 16:14 is a 1:1.142 ratio. 18:15 is a 1:1.200 ratio. 16:13 is a 1:1.231 ratio. I use 16:13, most people think it's too high but I had 16:14 and just couldn't ride it. EDIT: Chain legnth will barely change, you might be able to get another link out of it, which is a good thing really.

Bikes with plain frames and one colour for the wheels, bars, cranks etc went out of fashion in 2005. Colourful frames and a mix of black, white and silver parts are where it's at these days. I think the best looking wheels you can get for any set up are black rims, white spokes and black hubs, they go with every set-up and look amazing.

Don't use petrol, it's oil based so it will leave a thin film on your rim, same with white spirits. I'd say washing up liquid and water, or apparantly you can mix white vinegar with water and that brakes down the oil and the water washes it away. As for the pads, you can sand them slightly but the grind will do most of the work.

I try. If the alignment is constantly changing so the pads start rubbing, I'd say you're getting dry/sticky seals. How old's the brake? Has it been ridden much in the rain? If it gets very wet, then the pistons corrode where the seals sit, and this may be the cause of this problem. I was going to do a video guide, but my Dad was away with the camera when I last rebuilt my brake, but I'll right up a wiki thing tommorrow and post a link in here, might help.

Just a tarty special, makes the hose line cleaner I think?

Very nice Ad! Way too many knobbles on those tyres though. That geos almost perfect for me, just need about a +40 bb I think.

they're called Mono Trial, not moto trials. You don't need to reset the magura either, you need to true the wheel. I find when discs go wrong it's far easier to work out what is wrong. Discs are easier to bleed than Maguras if anything! Unless you're using a pure water bleed. (Which doesn't lubricate the seals enough IMO).

He means the rims.

The ones that fit profiles and kings aren't in stock.

Happy Birthday Gleneth!

Burns. They're still the lightest arms out, they're incredibly stiff and very, very strong, and I think they come with a lifetime warrenty? Get a lightweight ring to go with them and you're laughing. Although on a Mod I'd go with Try-All.

No it'd just make it uncomfortable. if she's lacking in power, go for an 18:13 ratio.

I've never done a bath bleed on my brake, it's never gone wrong.

Nice Anal, nice... People tend to drill a hole at the top of the top tube, then drill/file the end off at the brake end so it can come out pretty easily.

170 is not fine, they ride like shite! My brother had a t-lite with 170 cranks, it was horrid until we put 160s on it.

18:12 is standard mod gearing, with an 18t freewheel up front and a 12t fixed sprocket at the back.