Muel

Let me re-phrase for the peasants/pedants amongst us. You'd be amazed how few components owners actually don't add grese to on their bikes that they are supposed to add grease to on their bikes.

For £200, f**king good. That rear tyre will hold you back before long, the bars are a personal choice but other than that it all seems good. I'd get someone whos good with trials bikes to check it over if you can, I normally rebuild my and my mate's new/second hand bikes when they arrive to grease everthing and check it's all sorted. You'd be amazed how little people grease on bikes, I once got an amazing spec bike second hand that had no grease at all on the slave mount bolts, stem bolts, axle bolts or top cap bolt.

Age: 19 in 5 days Bike: Simtra St-1 What is the best trials specific product you have ever used?:Hope Pro 2 rear hub, TrialTech handlebars, tensile ffw, trialtech forks, middleburn RS7 super pro TI trials cranks. What is the worst trials specific product you have ever used?: Sticky fingers front tyre, all onza forks, onza bars and stem, mucleman cranks, ACS freewheels, onza chain tugs. How long have you been riding?: nearly 3 years How often do you ride?: hardly ever for the last 6 months, hopign to get back into with my new build How often do you ride with other riders?: most of the times i ride Highest sidehop: can't really, I learnt them then forgot them Longest gap, flat to flat: about 7 feet Biggest tap: never measured Biggest drop: never measured Biggest up: never measured Can you tailwhip?: lol Can you switzerland squeaker?: tried once, hurt.

All looks amazing for £200 mate. Only things I'd change would be the rear tyre and the bars, and maybe the front brake depending on how good it is, but it's a bargin for learning on. I paid £300 for a standard T-Pro, it snapped 6 weeks later, and before that it was shit the whole time, everything was set up wrong.

Still not as common as Hopes though.

I thought a T-Vee had 20" wheels front and rear? If you want a good tyre, you'll need a 19" wheel, which means chaning the frame. Long story short, best off selling the bike and buying a new one which uses all the modern standards.

Aye I suppose, but it will give you the most popular ones, I'm guessing it'll be front hydraulic sic and rear maggy.

Here's the options you want to have: Front Brake: Hydraulic Rim Hydraulic Disc Mechanical Disc Vee None Rear Brake: Hydraulic Rim Hydraulic Disc Mechanical Disc Vee None Bike Type: Stock Mod Modstock 24 Weight: 7.1-8.0kg 8.1-9.0kg 9.1-10.0kg 10.1-11.0kg 11.1-12.0kg 12.3-13.0kg 13.1-14.0kg Also, make the option buttons all radio buttons, not check boxes. If they're check boxes you can vote for more than one.

There should be a poll for front brake and rear brake, or this won't work. A lot of people run front disc, rear maggy. EDIT: Stod? It's called a 24, doesn't have a nickname.

Why not park up at the quarry? Theres a comp on today I think so most of the regulars will be a that, and I can't get there anyway, I normally get a lift off my mate.

I never said any of the examples you've given there either. I know most people arn't as smooth as Stan, (a lot are though, and are smoother than a TGS rider), I also know that TGS doesn't mean TGS, no-one actually limits themselves to those three, but I havn't seen a new name for that sort of style yet, I never said Danny can't ride natty, I never even hinted at it so I don't know where you've got that from, I've only ever seen his videos and never seen a rock. Did you read the thread at all? Or just assumed what I said? My point was that the frames clearly arn't that strong at the moment, they've got this flaw, but if they stuck a gusset in there then it should be alright, and that it's daft to give the likes of Danny and CLS frames that are this light. Never commented on how smooth they are, what I think of their riding, (I actually quite like TGS, one of the best rides I've been on was in Sheffield). When you're doing a big drop gap and rimming the tyre really hard, the dropout will get more strain than if you're riding natty smoothly.

Maybe a bit young at 18? I thought it was only really socially acceptable for oldies/very busies to use dating sites....

I'm trying to decide whether it's a good idea for me to build a new computer or not, I'm still running my 2.4 HT P4 powered monster. But, there is a possibilty of some newer computers coming available from my Dad's works, so it might be an idea to wait and see whats on offer.

I'd put a link back in and the tensioner back on. As it is it'll just add to the hammer the chain gets anyway, then when it does stretch, it'll be all slack and clattery.

Not the TGS riders though, they couldn't give a shit about weight as long as it's strong, which is why I can't understand why Onza ever sponsored Swindlehurst and CLS, they need to be on strong deng style frames like Zonas.

I hope that wasn't aimed at me, I havn't been getting at Ben at all, I was saying that it clearly isn't much good as a street frame, as it's too light and weak, so maybe they'd be better off marketing it to just natty riders so they don't get as many people asking for the replacement scheme option...

So it's not just me that thinks that any frame below 2.0-2.1kgs is going to be too weak for TGS?

You're gettin "abuse" because aqll you keep saying is "ashton justice or onza which is better" Which Onza, which Justice, Mod or Stock, how old, how much, what kind of geo do you prefer, what brake setup do you want to run, how much have you got to spend? Add some information, how are we supposed to just say which is better, when we've no idea which bikes you're talking about. Even then there is no "better" bikes, all the top end bikes are better than each other in certain ways. At the bottom end there is some real garbage, (Shogun Gimp, Missions, Onza T-Vee/T-Bird etc).

Internet figures are bollocks...

It's an Onza, I'd never trust one for heavy street work. An Echo Lite 07/08 Maggy is a street and natural frame, but the TGS riders seem to kill them quite often, and they're 1.8kg aswell. I think it's a weight thing, a Zona ZIp weighs 2.3kg and I've never known one to crack, whereas I've known a few people who cracked 07 Lites.

No, the helicoil kit comes with a special 5.2mm drill bit and a proper tap, you can screw an M5 insert into an M6 thread apparantly, and the pitch seems to not matter, but I wouldn't trust it with the 4 bolt mounts... Do it properly, it's worth doing.

Should be, I'd ask Tarty though. A lot of BBs use a spacer adapter thing to use the bb in a 68mm bb shell frame, and some frames are 73mm, but some BBs are 68mm standard. Just ring/email Adam at Tarty Bikes, he'll be able to tell you.

Still havn't had time to sort this out, will try and get it done tommorrow.

Buy a helicoil kit and helicoil it. Make sure you measure the depth of the holes and get the longest insert in there you can.

Maybe not today, maybe not tomrrow. But some day.... Just ride it mate, if you're smooth anough it'll last ages I would have thought, then if it does crack theres always the half price replacement scheme.