Muel

There is a bigger problem. You need a hub designed to not use snail cams really, because you need the snail cam to space the moutn further into the centre of the frame, because the "seat" stays bend in, so the mount will have to bend in, but the bends on the mount have to clear the caliper bolts, if you put the mount right up against the frame, I doubt it would sit flat on the droupout because of sticking out welds etc. If you keep this in mind, you'll need a hub that is designed so that the edge of the hub mounts straight onto the dropout, instead of having a snail cam in there, so that you can get it spaced right. On mine, I had 1 really thin spacer on one bolt and non on the other, even with a hub designed for use with the cams outside. I honestly don't think it can be done on a hub that isn't a TI, because you need to take into account that it needs a smaller axle width than most hubs, and it need to be designed so it mounts on the frame with no snail cam, I've looked for others and I don't think there are any that fit the bill apart from the TI. That's using this method anyway.

Mine still haven't come yet. New speakers arrived though, they're immense.

So tragic, just shows how careful we need to be out there. RIP matey.

The only things it attaches too are the rear axle and the left hand 4 bolt mount. It has a 10mm hole for the axle, so when you do the wheel bolt up it's clamped between the wheel and the frame, and then it's just bolted down to the 4 bolt mount. What rear hub do you have? I think the only one you can do it with is a Monty TI. You need one that is designed not to have snail cams in the frame with it, but with an axle width small enough so you can fit the hub, disc mount and snail cams inside the frame. If you don't mind about weight, then I'd get a Monty TI hub on a Try-All rim with Mutiny spokes. Thats what I had, but I had the older black TI hub, so it was 36h aswell, it was the strongest wheel I've ever had. My brake on the 06 with the adapter and that wheel was much stiffer than the one on my Echo now, the wheel was a lot stiffer and the caliper didn't need to have lots of packing under it to space it out. If you need more help than the Wiki, feel free to PM me. Yes it's fine, I designed mine after seeing a few others and just encorpourated the best bits of them all.

OK cheers Adam, I was thinking about getting some anodised ones, but it just struck me then that they could be TI, in which case I would have left them.

The adapter I made uses the rear axle and the left hand 4 bolt mount, (or 2 bolt mount), to secure it to the frame. Pic 1. Pic 2. I can't embed the pics, sorry. Pics of the mount off the bike in here: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/How_To_...c_Mount_Adapter

All 4 have mine are animals, as were the two I had before them! I used slotted holes at the 4 bolt mount, and a hole for the axle. That way, the whole mount moves when you tension the chain, so the claiper and pads are always kept in the optimal place on the rotor. If I were you I'd try the adapter first, you can only loose a bit of steel if it goes wrong, if the welding goes wrong, it could be your frame.

Nothing holds better than a Hope.

I don't think they'd need it, but it would certainly help. That diagram is great, but with horizontal dropouts you don't know where the wheel will lie. You could always request slotted caliper mounts though like on a Ciguena. I'd be inclined to have all the bits ready to build it up, then they will be able to mount it all up and check it.

I never had to find out any of the other measurements when I made mine, I just used the wheel and the disc and made it all up to fit them. With that drawing the engineering place you talked about should be able to machine a mount and weld it on for you, I should think.

It was really, really simple to make. The disc caliper bolt holes are 51mm apart, that's all you need to know for an adapter. If you weld it, it will need heat treating and then re-finishing, so it will get expensive.

The adapter is on my desk now, still works, just I sold the frame it fits haha.

Made this wiki thingy a while ago, try it, worked brilliantly for me and no welding needed. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/How_To_...c_Mount_Adapter

They don't make that frame any more, so I doubt you can get a replacement. Stand on it?

5p coins are for noobs. And yes, mine wouldn't fit over any of my ISIS bbs until I got it machined out.

Ooh, I feel quite special now. Are any more of the bolts titanium?

It takes about 10 years to do so though.

On a Pro2, the bolts have a plain shank anyway for the part that sits inside the frame, so I shouldn't think there is much chance of it being damaged.

I'd ring up Hope, in this case they may just help you out.

Very wierd indeed, are they the right springs? They're not from a Profile or something? Maybe there is something going round inside the hub, like a piece of swarf? I'd strip it all down completely and clean it all up, you could have missed something.

Big ass bolts are stronger.

Front Hope Mono Trial, any disc hub with sealed bearings. Monty TIs are good because the rotor bolts can run right through the spoke flange, so you can run super long bolts, so no risk of stripping the threads out of the rotor mounts! (Unless you like over tightening things!)

Find a big ass bolt, I've got one that's like an M12 or something, the head will only just fit between the tapers on the crank arm. Stick it in so the head sits on the en of the axle, then use the tool to remove the crank arm. I've got a Shimano BB tool, but I've had to machine out the inside to get it to fit over any ISIS BB I've ever had, if you know someone with a lather, get them to take the inside out until it will just clear the axle.

It's Ben's birthday today, Happy Birthday Ben! It's his 16th so he's legal now haha.

Tensiles are brilliant, I've had less trouble with mine in over 18months than my mate has had with his 2 Enos and 2 Try-Alls, in the same time.