Muel

That was just about the bestest, craziest sickest video I've ever seen, the huge dropgaps were scary, and the amount of cracks in that frame was mad. That's some surberb stuff, the riding, music and editing went perfectly.

Sounds to me like the headtube needs facing, my Echo does what you've described, but it's only when the bars are facing backwards, so I've never bothered to fix it.

He doesn't any more. Yeh, hit the top of the steerer tube harder, it should just drop out.

Maguras are more On/Off, I know it's more opinion than fact, but I've never heard anyone ever say that Maguras have more modulation than discs.

Because Carbon Fibre makes very strong tubes, because the fibres lie in a lattice, so you couldn't make bolts out of it without the threads being really weak, because you can't lay a lattice of strands of carbon round sharp edges. The "Magnesium" used in bike frames and parts is an Alloy, it's made from mixing Magnesium and Aluminium.

Yeh your right there, it is much nicer looking. I think I was a bit harsh, I did think it was horrid but I've always hated short, low bb bikes anyway. They frame seems quite strong these days since they changed the front bashplate gusset, I can't actually remember seeing a newer one breaking, so thats one less thing to worry about. Have you changed the frames for 2008 then?

I've just sent off the cheque for Ali's Rubber Queen, I'll report back when I've given it a proper ride. He did say it rolls a lot, but I've got a decent width rim and I never use less than 25psi, and I'm scared of slanted faces, so hopefully it should suit me pretty well.

I've been using sellotape for at least 6 months on my Mod, it's fine if you overlap it and use a double layer.

Just to a few little beaches and coves arond the Treaddur area. I think it's spelt Treaddur anyway.

It's short, old, plain, pink, missing a load of bits and has purple grips? I still think it'll be mint when it's done, I just thought that could be why he didn't like it. Get the Echo's on, black forks would suit it better. Maybe spray the frame black aswell and get white rims?

Having one of these tyres would save me 400g over my Minion, (2.50, Dual Ply, Front Tread). Using a freeride tube instead of a normal one would only be 100-150g heavier I'd guess?

Well make it and then report it, then OBM or someone will hopefully sticky it. I think it would be better as an FAQ topic though.

Blimey, if laptops are getting that good for £300, I think I'll look into getting one this year!

Nah, if you posted it up all the mods would be downloading it from there anyway.

It was about 4 years old, so the rubber might have hardened over time? I know motorbike tyres do that, but they can take 15 years before you can tell the difference, on motorbike trials tyres anyway. It had no grip at all, on our stone flagged path in the wet, it slid when I turned the bars if I rode along it, I then tried my Mod with the Try-All on the front, and the amount of grip I got from it was huge compared to the IRC. I see what you mean about the slick tyre having more grip, but it is still good to have some knobbles on the rear if you ask me, so they can hook up on the edges of things where a slick wouldn't. That Nobby Nic looks the best to me from the ones you posted, it's got some tread so it would be good in mud, but the knobbles aren't too tall, which would make the contact patch smaller. But at that price I think I'd rather have a Try-All, it's £7 extra for a tyre that's unproven on trials bikes, and from this website I found, it doesn't seem all that light, unless you could stand using the 1.8" version.

I just took 2 months off so I could ride my bike during the summer hols without feeling sore, and I came back stronger. Get the Ashton out Kev?

I tried an old but unused IRC front tyre on my Kot yesterday that I found in the shed, it was pretty nasty, even when I ran it really soft I had almost no grip. It has really small knobbles which are spaced out quite a lot, and seems to be a relatively hard compound. I think I'll end up getting one of those Rubber Queens one day, it would save nearly 400g over my minion. EDIT: Looking at the tread pattern on the Race King, I don't think it would be all that good in mud, the knobbles are really small compared to a Try-All.

If you like your super short wheelbases, get the Neon!

My mate used to have one, so I rode it a lot, and it was horrid. The bb was too low, the forks were too short and too heavy, (fall guys), the list went on. Buy second hand if you've got £500 to spend on a bike, you'll get a much better value bike for your money.

Looks like you've settled into the new bike Adam, shame to hear about the rear rim though, it looked so nice!

I've always preferred ISIS, it's stronger, stiffer and lighter, and you can get a really good ISIS BB for around £35 these days.

I just got back from a weekend on Anglesey, it rained all the time we were riding, and it was really windy, it kept blowing me off course when I did any gaps. My brakes worked faultlessly though, as they always do.

A light grind with Rock Blues? I needed the heaviest grind I could manage to get them to work OK in the dry! That was on Mod though, although I don't know if that make an difference.

I've got 2 sets of these and my mate has a set aswell, as far as I can tell, they never snap, they rip the thread out of the pedal, you you will never manage to get new pins to screw in. I mended mine by drilling the hole through the pedal body, then tapping it and putting a bolt through, it's been good for a few months now.

First disconnect the caliper from the main hose and remove the pads and retention clip thingy, then you need to remove the bore cap. You could either buy the proper tool, or you could do what I did and filed down a flat piece of steel until it has round corners and can use two of the grooves to undo the cap. I put my "tool" in a vice and turned the caliper to get it off. You should then see the back of the piston, simply push the back of it with something smooth and soft, like a piece of wood, until it plops out of the seal and into the space where the pads usually sit, then it should drop out of the gap the the pads load into the caliper though. Then, reach through the big hole with a pair of needle nosed pliers and gently pull the other piston out of it's recess, and drop it out of the caliper the same as before, the seals will be left in the caliper, and you can get them out with a small flat bladed screwdriver. It's a year since I did it, but I'm pretty sure that's how I did it. My Dad helpfully had used an old Dot 5 bottle for putting 2 stroke in, so not knowing what Dot 5 looked like or how thick it was, I bled it with 2 stroke oil, so I had to strip the whole brake down and clean it out. Rather annoying.