Rob Leech

Again, no offence, but none of that would be viable on a bicycle frame. How could you heat different areas to seperate peak temperatures by wacking it in an oven (also know as precipitation hardening, the second stage of the heat treatment process of most alloys used in the manufacture of trials frames)? Im not having a go at you, but this kids about to spend how-ever much on a frame that he's being told, by you, he can fix easily, when in the real world, it's never going to be fully repairable. You may well do this for a job, but you sound like you've had no experience with frame repair or the practicle side of heat treatment, theory sounds great, but dosent always come through . Cheers, Josh.

What do you mean by blend chap? Cheers, Josh.

No offence to you pal, but it sounds like you dont know too much about what the heat treating process does to aluminium. If your saying it's ok to put a previously heat treated aluminium section back through it's last stage then you've not quite thought it through, yes, the area around the weld may well return to its previous state, but what about the rest of the frame? The only reason you can harden these series of aluminium is due to their composition and the way the alloyed elements react when heated to a solid solution, where the particals are rearanged, resulting in a greater resistance to shifting dislocations, so simply adding more heat will cause this structure to be broken down, ending in a softer material. It sounds like you may well have funny ideas about aluminium in general. Cheers, Josh. Oh, and what your saying further up about restoring the properties of the parent metal through heat treating, is called normalizing, and cant be done with any aluminium alloy . Edit- Not trying to be arsey about this btw, you wouldnt believe the number of people that think these things about aluminium because their mate works with steel, 'tis not tut same lad. Oh, and i could write you a book on precipitation hardening if you'd like, no need for that.

Ah haaaaa, i told you gaps to foot jam would work . Awesomeness, was that a real zebra????

Very much obliged sir.

Ahhh, ritey o, cheers Mr C. Josh.

Going a bit off topic here, but i thought you had to give a 6 month warranty by law? Do they class these products as something different? Cheers, Josh.

1) So that i had a greater surface area for the bonding of the carbon. 2)This is know in the trade as "thick to thin", you basically concerntrate more on the thicker material as it needs more heat to gain penetration (Gigi'ty) . Hope that answered your questions matey . AHHHHHHH, ah well, Gusset will be bonded on . Surprising how strong it is, will show you tomorrow/saturday . Cheers, Josh.

Correct, trying to re-heat treat it will only soften it more. Incorrect, the effect of the HAZ ( Heat Affected Zone) will soften the area and it will crack again, wether it be in a couple of days or a couple of months, it cant be repaired to its original state . From the sounds of it, and from my experience of welding these frames up, i wouldnt bother, leave it until it forms a proper crack then skin it in carbon fiber (or just skin it straight away) - http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/products/starter-kits/carbon-fibre-skinning-starter-kit.aspx Sounds difficult to do, but from my experience, it seems the best way to make a decent repair. Hope that helps, Josh. Oh, btw, have a look at their rod repair kit aswell, might be a bit better for you . Edit- I apologise for the amount of experience shown there .

Hard to tell without a rear brake (not into this whole brakeless malarky), but it manuals beautifully, thought i'd need a higher stem for it, but seems all good, will give it a proper test at the weekend and try to get a little video done . Cheers, Josh. Oh, and like i said, it is a bit flexy on the rear, but i will be adding a gusset that will hopefully get rid of it tomorrow .

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Ah, yes, fair shout. Also mod/stock . Josh. Edit- also alot heavier in both cases

Ha ha, the chinese must love it, i can only see one difference between them and the koxx, and thats the bb yoke, welded on the breath, cnc on the sky. Josh.

Ah haaaaaaa May also be buying one of these shortly :$

Not impossible, just time consuming . I think im right in saying that it dosent have a downtube gusset? If so, there's your problem. All the stresses involved in that area would normally be disspersed ( apologies on the spelling :$ ) through that gusset, whereas here, the weld joining the 3 tubes is basically taking the hack, which is bad, as seen(Y) Get a gusset on it and give it another go, was a nice looking frame . Cheers, Josh. Edit- Just had a look at the pictures mr travis put up of this, think the hydroforming in the down tube also had a big part to play in this snappage Putting quite a sharp recesse right next to the end of a welded joint that probably comes under the most stress of any part of the frame? Tut tut mr T.

Think you'll find that the carbon is just fine, its the top tube/down tube to headtube joint thats gone . Cheers, Josh.

Heya chap, I'll be making posts to screw into the holes you can see on the booster, will just be like a normal mounting then . Has already been tried and tested through the Phat Phrame(Y) . Cheers, Josh.

Cheers Luke, no, was expecting it to be heavier than an all ally frame, just want to see if the concept will work But i did weigh it when it was all together, and it came out at just over 1.5, so if it does work, it will be very easy to make one that's considerably lighter . Cheers, Josh.

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Cheers for the pic, i'll be bonding a seperate gusset to the rear once it's completed, should stop any flexing of the dropout joints . That also looks like it hasn't been bonded properly, also looks like uni-directional tube, whereas my tubing is 2/2 twill, so should be a bit stronger in that area . Cheers, Josh.

Lol, it's all good, he's a pal, waiting to get the bb before i put it in . Cheers, Josh.

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Cheers Adam, shouldnt be too long now . Did you sort a new bike out btw? Cheers, Josh.

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Think me and flipp will be there jay .