Rob Leech

Pretty big update today. I announced our new product line this afternoon on facebook, so here it is (descriptions have been taken straight from FB, so sorry for the repetition)- Jaf 180mm disc rotor, weighing in at 101g (minus bolts). With weight:strength ratios in mind, this rotor is designed to be as light as possible, yet also as hard to bend or buckle as possible! Jaf 160mm disc rotor, 83g (minus bolts). With weight:strength ratios in mind, this rotor is designed to be as light as possible, yet also as hard to bend or buckle as possible! Jaf 4 bolt brake booster. Designed to be as minimal as possible, yet still add stiffness to your spongy magura. Also encorporating cross-over clips to stop any unwanted breakages. Jaf 2 bolt brake booster. Designed to be as minimal as possible, yet still add stiffness to your spongy magura. Also encorporating cross-over clips to stop any unwanted breakages. Jaf full ring. Made from stainless steel, this ring can withstand most types of brick, rock, wood, metal, whatever you're riding! And if it dosen't, it can simply be bent back with no chance of cracking or breaking! Showing the freewheel spacer designed to blend in with the bash. Jaf half ring. Designed with weight and strength in mind by encorporating lage cutouts and the removal of unnecessary material. Made from stainless steel, this ring can withstand most types of brick, rock, wood, metal, whatever you're riding! And if it dosen't, it can simply be bent back with no chance of cracking or breaking! Showing the freewheel spacer designed to blend in with the bash. Jaf smooth cam. Made from stainless steel, these cams are able to take any and all the power put through the drivetrain. Jaf toothed cam. With a small toothed cut out on the outside edge, this cam allows for easy adjustment of your wheel, and with these being constructed from stainless steel, there's no chance of any breakages! Last but not least, the Jaf FlexiTech frame protector- Flat you say? Not with this piece of kit. Using a resin designed to stay flexible once cured, yet still attain the structural characteristics of a standard epoxy, this protector can be bent and curved, opening it up to endless possibilities of positioning on your frame. Combining carbon fiber with diolen (a polyester based fiber used in the manufacture of boat hulls where collisions are inevitable) creates a strong, yet impact absorbing part that will keep your frame safe from any crash or bail you may encounter. This part can also be cut easily with a sharp pair of scissors, so if you wanted, you could make 2 chainstay protectors out of it, or cut it into sections and place it where you are most likely to hit the frame, it's your choice! Available to buy very soon.............. Cheers, Josh Leech, Jaf Bikes.

Looks pretty tasty buddy! You'll be fine with a 128mm bb . I think the graphics change was a good plan btw, fits in well with your set up . Hope you enjoy it chap, Josh.

Yep, all in house. It's just easier that way with people wanting different things . It will be with him sometime tomorrow, so keep an eye out, I'm sure he is .

It started off as this with the videos, but it's whatever you'd like it to be. I've always liked "Joshs Adorable Fabrication" but it sounds a bit femanine .

It is actually amazing how much it looks like there are, but sadly not, just the disc mount behind .

I was waiting for that comment . Surely didn't the radix copy the onza? Who copied the rockman before that? Or the onza before that? Or the guy that thought bracing was a good structural idea?

Well, hopefully this one will suit you just right dez! Just putting the final coat of paint on, will send the pictures accross later on . Cheers, Josh, Jaf Bikes.

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/headset_spares/tartybikes_star_nut/c57p10541.html The 18mm one

Which weatherman are you guys looking at? Had a look on the bbc site 3 times today, every time it has been a different outcome .

How do, I take it that you're helicoiling to 5mm? If so, you should be fine with just the tap (the tap will be M6 x 1.0 (or 0.8), so a 5mm hole to start is fine). It will take a while, and don't over do it as you could end up snapping the tap. Cheers, Josh. Edit- thats if the tap IS M6

Cheers Luke, yeah, it's not too bad actually, the brakes got a touch of sponge to it, but bites and holds pretty well so far . Just fancied a change from the frames I usually ride really. I've always been a fan of short stocks, but never had short stays on a stock so thought I'd give it a go .

How do all, haven't put any pics of my bikes up on here for a while, so thought I would today. I've been working on this inbetween jobs for a while now, thought it was about time I had a lighter frame, let me know what'cha think . I also would like to apologise for the greasy finger marks, can't be avoided in the workshop atm . Spec is- Jaf frame- 1070, 372 c/s, +75, 72.5 deg, 650 reach, 1.87 kg Viz forks Echo rear wheel Trialtech/monty front bb7/maggy Trialtech bar/stem Echo cranks/freewheel Jaf Bash Cheers all, Josh.

No problem chap, let us know how it goes . Cheers, Josh.

Hi Gaz, just sent you over an e-mail with an idea so you can sort it out, have a gander and let me know what you think . For a repair like this, you'd be looking at £30 plus return postage . Just pop me an e-mail if you'd like it doing chap. Cheers, Josh Leech, Jaf Bikes.

Sounds like you've got a 2004 magura. Was the TPA adjuster on top of the lever blade or inside it? If it's on top, take the lever blade apart and replace the treaded section that screws into the square bit with a long (ish) M5 bolt, that should sort it out . If it was inside the lever, you'll have to either have access to a vice or some molegrips to get it out. The red bit will be fine, it's the aluminium threaded section that will be dead and will need replacing (which you can do two ways- go here> http://www.tartybike...3/c5p10023.html and buy that or, file out the lever blade where the TPA adjustment bolt fits in so that a standrad M6 bolt will fit and move side-side, cut the head off a M6 bolt and use that . Cheers, Josh.

How do all, myself and Dez have been speaking about this frame for a while now and it has changed quite considerably over our discussions about geometry and the general usage of the frame. I would agree with most that the bb-wb ratio is a bit extreme, but I think that with the right small changes and correct setup towards the front end, this could be made to ride quite nicely. I think that the main issue with this frame would be the reach. I've made mistakes before on my own previous projects which have resulted in a pretty short reach and it has ruined the feel of the frame due simply to lack of "cockpit" space. Dez, have a look at the drawing I've just sent over, let me know what you think of that, I think that will improve this frame considerably . Ha ha, I'd say this is very much a ginger/marmite/toasting time frame, very much a personal taste . Cheers, Josh.

Wayyyy too long for the level I'm at, probably around 7-8 years now I think . What was the problem with the mount? Cheers, Josh.

Love the edit master flipp'ip. Right about the music too Yeah, went over the front and the bike hit me smack bang on the shoulder, had only just got rid of a bum injury aswell . All good now though . Cheers for the comments you'll, Josh.

It should give you the ratio on the bottle .

Hi, I'm still struggling to find a heat treatment plant for it atm, everyone that I go to either dosen't want to know or wants a horrendous amount for a single frame. As soon as I've found one, you'll certainly see a few prototypes around . Cheers, Josh.

Yeah, two cones would do the job just fine . You'll need a mill and a lathe to make something similar to mine .

Yeah, this is something I'm working on (slowly), should be changing pretty soon .

Uploaded with ImageShack.us Thats how I set the headangle It's a digital bevell box used for setting angles of saw blades/milling cutters, ect. Pretty good bit of kit, just zero it off the base of the jig and your away . Can also see the bolting system for securing the headtube.

http:// Uploaded with ImageShack.us Thats pretty much the jig i'm using atm, simple to make and use. I'm not going to give you the measurements though. This is something you'll need to have thought about yourself to fully understand how the jig will work . I'll gladly point you in the right direction if your having trouble with it . Just remember, shortest to longest and smallest to tallest (if thats a word ) . Cheers buddy, Josh.

Why? Hopefully, the lads looking at making a steel frame rather than ally, and there's not a massive amount of welding when making the jig.