Rob Leech

At a spot in brum with an old, rather intoxicated, fella sat on a bench having a nap. About 15 mins pass by and he decides to wake up and shout "Is there a champion among you!" at the top of his voice, then return to his former position.

Even if it was aimed at my post, I would of agreed with you . Not too sure on the whole concept, but I do like the overall look of the frame. If he kept it like that but used a standard rear end, I think it'd look awesome, especially with the front triangle idea.

Why back to the drawing board? The frame was designed to flex like that, hence them calling it the first flex-frame in trials.

How do all, some of you may of seen this frame at Radfest, did have it up for sale but not a lot of interest came through, so I thought I'd make a change for myself. Rides pretty nicely so far, longer than my last but with a shorter reach is just the ticket! Sorry for the state of the pics, was in a bit of a rush to hide from the rain when taking them. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Spec hasn't changed for a long time now, so most of it's a bit old. Let me know what'ch'you think. Josh.

How do all, this is copied straight from the FB page, so appologys for the font type. Some unfortunate, but necessary news from Jaf today. As of the 1st September, all frame building and repair services will be closed untill further notice. From this date, Jaf will purely be looking into the development of new products and materials, with the intention to return as a more defined brand with a much broader range of production abilities. Anyone with products still within warranty will still be able to make their claims as the workshop will still be running, just on a part time basis. Anyone who currently has work in with us will have this work completed and posted before the 1st. This page will stay open, but the website will also be closed on the 1st. Our sponsored riders will continue (if desired) to have our support throughout this period. I will be taking orders up until the 1st, which will see a reduced quotation cost, but with the time scales involved, only 2-3 more frames will be produced. I'd like to thank everyone that has helped and shown support to Jaf through this first year in business and say to all, Jaf will be back! Cheers all, Josh leech, Jaf Bikes. Ed- nearly, yes. This and things like this are what I'm mainly going to be working on (I've got quite a big interest in stuff like this and it's good for tinkering with )

I'm hoping to have a coiple done for Radfest Sd, but I'm having some screw cutting issues with the lathe atm. Will hopefully be sorted next week though . I sorted a one off not long ago, but to be honest, I didn't know that they were only available for 160's . so they'll be coming soon

My next personal frame is going to include a flag mount for sure You could make the mold quite happily in one go dez, it's the mold positive that would take the time, depending on complexity and tolerances . I wish I was on a grand a week . I would say, looking at the rough drawings, you could bang out the mold in 2-3 days if you concerntrated purely on it. Have you thought about bonding? Relatively easy to design the joints for and would simplify the overall design and look of the frame. Looks a bit "busy" if you get what I mean? Deffinately have a play with carbon. Loads of places doing simply starter sets that can be used for more than they say if you put your mind to it . That's sort of the main advantage with carbon and the knowledge that is needed to produce parts that are structurally sound with a resulting advantage in the reduction of weight. You can use the different weaves and orientations to act against stresses that are know to act on a member, ie, the use of 0/60/150 degree layups with uni-direction cloth in forks to allow flex in one direction, but not allow this flex to affect the overal structure (if that makes sense?). The one problem I've found with Ti (especially in the uk) is the cost. The cost for a one off in Ti would be around quadrupple that of the cost of materials to make a part in carbon. Add on the cost of labour and it probably comes a bit closer to equal, but if you're planning to experiment with this design, deffinately play with carbon first (or mayby other composites? Kevlar or diolen would be a cheaper starting point, with the process's involved being the same as used with carbon) . That's my veiw on it anyways. Nice to see someone thinking out the box for once. Get in touch if you need some help/advice chap . Cheers, Josh.

Go to M6 Dan . Dosen't take long to file out your mounts with a needle file . You might be able to helicoil it again, but if the ones in there are off square, you'll have a job getting the new ones in so they're spot on. I always run M6, hate anything with M5, should of been altered by now in my opinion.

Bog roll around the crank arm, hit it with a knocking stick as close to the bb as you can, job done

Sorry to say this Dan, but it isn't glue, it is pad material under there. This is how the french do it to get the 10mm of pad material. The pad material underneath is ment to give a better surface to bond the new material to ( a lot to do with certain epoxies being desinged purely to create strong bonds between 2 faces of the same material), but I agree, it's not a good way to do it. Had the same thing happen, got in touch with steve and he sorted it out straight away, sound guy . Cheers, Josh.

Get in touch with Pat Donovan Josh (if you haven't already). Some of the german spots he goes to look frick'in awesome.

Thats alright JD, I did realise that, just didn't want an argument to start is all . Know what you mean though

Looking good Dez. Whats with the watch? Heart rate monitor? Josh.

Yes, different angles of light bring out different colours in the paint. Not sure how it works (I'm guessing some sort of metal additives that sit at different levels in the paint layer), but the guy above may well know .

Before it starts any arguments, I get the paint for £20 (1/10 of a litre), it's the elbow grease that goes into doing the preping and actually spraying that is the main cost . This is mainly as I'd be painting the frame with something anyways, so if the customer wants to pay for the paint and the extra time, it's their choice to do so or not . Actual cost of spraying a frame (any frame that is) in this would be £75. That includes stripping, primer, base coat, mid coat (this effect), lacquer, any finishing required and return postage to the customer . Cheers all, Josh. Edit - and the guy above is right, there are soooooo many different paints out there that are similar to this and completely different to anything seen in the cycling world, but I simply can't show them all on a part as it would cost me liturally thousands to do it . So if anyone's interested in other effective paint, pop me a message and I'll show some of the examples I have found that I can get hold of . Edit 2 - also, sorry to tom and the other moderators as this has just become an advertisement, which is not what I intended it to be, so I'd fully understand if things need to be taken out of here .

How do all, Before that starts up again, we have been on touch with crazybike through this whole process and they are happy with the decision of us being a co-sponsor to Damon and are happy with the decision of a change of frame. The frame's holding up well so far and he seems to be enjoying it, so we're happy with the end result . Cheers, Josh, Jaf Bikes.

How do all, made an alteration to my frame recently, so did a bit of a re-spray last week using a new paint to our supplier. I'm quite giddy when looking at it still as it's just too damn cool! But anyways, let me know what you think. Cheers all, Josh.

I'd agree with you on this. My background is in much thicker materials with les S complicated joints. But, it's imporved quite a bit of recent and is continuing to. Can I ask which frames you've seen? There aren't that many around the midlands. I would say that it may well be a challenge for you though. A majority of the tubing is 0.8 at the joint and welded to thickness's up to 3mm, so there's quite a bit of thick-thin work involved with it . Glad you like it Cai, have fun with it chap Cheers, Josh.

Then you speak to the customer and let them know that something has to be changed to allow for the reach, not just go ahead with a measurement that's going to alter the overall geometry of the frame. If they do insist, you show them the drawing of the frame with the dimensions clearly shown then ask them to confirm that this decission would be final. Saying that the customer, who 9 times out of 10 dosen't realise that changing a single point can alter the frame massively, didn't do their homework isn't really an excuse when you're a professional who can see that the measurements don't add up. Frames that would have the exact geometry required? That'd be nice from a custom frame builder........

At the end of the day, everyone makes mistakes. I have before, ordering the wrong tubing due to a shocking ordering system (the joys of long product codes ), doing an early one and setting up the jig for a completely different frame, ect, ect. It's how you deal with those mistakes that sets your course. I think Marino actually handled the time/mistakes in that order pretty well. Getting daves frame re-made so quickly was really good of him and he obviously went out of his way to do so. I'm not going to go into the heat treament today, as it's all been said before and every one has their own veiw on the matter, but I'd deffinately agree that it should be an option on the frame form. The terms and conditions on the site could really do with being changed to be honest, as I've never been out on a geometry to date (minus flipps new one as I had to make a rather major alteration mid build due to a change in decission, but that wouldn't happen with a customer as the geometries are confirmed before any payment/order confirmation is produced). I'd say if anyone has had problems with the geometry on their Marino, it's due to the lack of a jig, which for the money, is fair enough. Not cheap things and even harder to produce yourself (luckily, at the time of me making mine, I had access to a decent machine shop and expendable funds due to the joys of being a full time-youngster ). So, yeah, it's your choice at the end of the day clerictgm. Either way, I'm sure you'd be happy with the end result . Cheers all, Josh.

I'd say this will always be a problem. You'd need something closer to the discs used on cars, so no resin matrix being used, but a ceramic bind of carbon matt (as in one of the links posted above, acheived by high temperatures and even higher compression) which would make it almost un-marketable due to the resulting retail price. Nice idea, but quite a bit more thought needed to make it an effective part in my opinion (or make up a fair few, use them once for comps and replace afterwards?).

Hi All, as of today the Jaf Bashs are now available through Tartybikes, so if you're in need of a hardy bash, check these out! http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/search.php?submit_toolbar_search=GO&keywords=Jaf+bash

http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/metric-fine-hand-carbon-steel-p-3886.html Not a bad price at all and can come in handy, especially if there are a few riders locally .

I wasn't planning on sending them out (I take it you mean the threaded nut?) as I make them to order, so I'll put them up on the Jaf site tomorrow, but they may well end up with tartys, not sure yet . Cheers chap, Josh.