Rob Leech

Dan, try some 170 cranks I cant ride mods with 160's, just makes it feel like the back wheels gona jump out from under you. I'd also agree with the shorter/lower stem idea, will definately make the bike feel longer, may induce back problems mind . Cheers, Josh.

Agreeing with this one Luke ^^^^ Pop down after work chap Josh.

Nahh, i think he's on about this fella. BAN (ki-moon)

With the right prep work, yes. You have to make sure the area your wrapping is completely free of any paint/dirt/grease before starting and keep it that way the whole way through. Also, when you apply the first layer of resin (you apply one layer on it's own to allow the carbon to bond to the section as well as its self, and it will make it easier for you to wrap the carbon around the tube without it falling off), make sure you put a good amount in and around the crack, it's pretty strong stuff . You could do this, but in my experience, theres no point. If the crack wants to continue, all your doing by drilling it is allowing it to travel in a diferent direction, or most of the time, several . Cheers, Josh.

Has the frame cracked due to the dent or is it on a joint? If it's on a joint and over an inch long, get it welded, then wrap it. If it's not on a joint/no longer than an inch, just wrap it. If you look here- My link Thats everything you need (minus heat shrink tape, available from the same place). If you need any help with it let me know . I did it with steves because welding wouldn't last much longer than a week, and due to it's position, we had to remove any movement around the gusset, hence a rigid repair . Cheers, Josh.

From the onza website - *Comp 2010* Brand new U6 alloy competition frame and the new 99 all alloy riser bar with all alloy handlebar stem. Full Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes, Isis bottom bracket and a SEALED bearing rear hub make this fabulous trials bike a surefire winner. The matt titanium anodized and painted finishes with purple trim and components will look great when you win your first competition.

Agree with this^ Also agree with the rockman green idea, if not, coust pads? EDIT- why do you want to know btw?

Stick with the stilsons, most of the force you exert through a fully built wheel will be taken by the flex of the spokes, if there is'nt enough with the stilsons, use a length of tube to get more leverage . Also, you may have trouble getting the steel sprocket up to temperature before the hub . Josh. Edit, just thought, if it dosn't do the job, whack the whole lot in the freezer overnight, much easier to get the ally to contract than the steel to expand . Plus, with the sprocket being the part you want, the heat would mess with the heat treatment processes that it has been through and inevitable lead to it cracking

Have you got a set of stilsons? - these- My link If so, do exactly the same, but use the stilsons as leverage rather than the rim. May well mark the hub, but from what you've said, dosn't sound like a problem . Cheers, Josh.

Cant be bothered to type this out again, so i copied it from the tryall carbon fokrs thread, i apologise if there are any unrelated bits - Carbon is a lot less susceptible to chips and scratches than people think, yes, i'd agree that large gouges would create an area where certain stresses would cause a fracture, but if koxx have done the lay up right, it shouldn't be a problem. Looking at a cross section of a fork lay up, the main structure is actually visible as a thick, single wall, showing that the varied layers of fabric have almost been fused by the resin (not too sure what the appropriate wording is for that), so a minor chip or scratch, in most cases, would be very much superficial to the forks structural integrity (obviously more factors would come into play, like position, depth and probably angle in this case). They are also extremely repairable, as long as you get to them in time, simply a bit of wet and dry and some super glue will sort any small chip (an epoxy resin (araldite or similar) would be a better option if it's not a quick fix whilst out nd about), which is something people dont think about when looking at carbon, it is only held together by a resin at the end of the day (also a bit more complicated than that, but you get the jist ) and will more than likely of had an epoxy gel coat applied to obtain the polished finish, which will be very susceptible to chipping and scratching, but is not a factor in the structure of the fork. "i am just saying i dont belive air pressure can be stronger than pysical pressure coming from an set of 4 pistons acting on a smaller area than a pump acting on a large chamber." Forgot to multi quote, you'd be very right in saying this, as most manufacturers producing carbon components often prefer a press to a vacuum system, but most of the time either size or shape of the component would stop them from doing this. I can pretty much gaurantee that the larger majority of carbon bike frames will be made this way, using a mould (normally ally) and bladder technique where the mold is in two halves, the carbon is layed up in both halves with a latex ballon (bladder) being used to compress the carbon into the mold. This will then be put into a press, which also creates heat (not sure how, wether it is simply the pressure or if the upper and lower plates are charged), curing the part (if pre-preg is used, which in the bike trade, is quite essential for the structural needs of a frame enduring quite a few different forces). You only have to look at how many manufacurers now make a full monocoque, not many, as they have been found to be weaker than a "3 piece" monocoque due to the processes in the manufacture. Why struggle to create a single, flawless piece when you could quite easily make 3 smaller pieces where problems are less likely and can be found before either production or moving to retail? I hope thats sorted some peoples questions/quibles on the subject . Once again, sorry for the rabble . Josh.

You've done a good job of that! Fancy donating it? Would like to see if i could get it ridable again . Cheers, Josh.

It does look like a fixie, a fixie for lazy people.

Ah haaaaa! How it this ment to help your wheels in braking? Especially with the bike having a freewheel.......... Edit-

Define pure? and it will oxidize, but it's not a problem Bit of lacquer will sort that. Water wont make too much difference as ally oxides in atmosphere (ie, oxygen) . Wouldn't agree with that, have shot blasted a few frames myself, left the threads uncovered (all of them), never had a problem. It's very much to do with which blasting media he uses (garnet, aluminium, bead, ect). Ask him if he can use a softer media (possibly ally oxide or a small bead, might take him longer, but will stop anything happening to the frame), will be fine then . Cheers, Josh.

Cant be doing with the argument side of this thread, but there have been a fair fews comments made about how carbon hates scrapes and marks. Carbon is a lot less susceptible to chips and scratches than people think, yes, i'd agree that large gouges would create an area where certain stresses would cause a fracture, but if koxx have done the lay up right, it shouldn't be a problem. Looking at a cross section of a fork lay up, the main structure is actually visible as a thick, single wall, showing that the varied layers of fabric have almost been fused by the resin (not too sure what the appropriate wording is for that), so a minor chip or scratch, in most cases, would be very much superficial to the forks structural integrity (obviously more factors would come into play, like position, depth and probably angle in this case). They are also extremely repairable, as long as you get to them in time, simply a bit of wet and dry and some super glue will sort any small chip (an epoxy resin (araldite or similar) would be a better option if it's not a quick fix whilst out nd about), which is something people dont think about when looking at carbon, it is only held together by a resin at the end of the day (also a bit more complicated than that, but you get the jist ) and will more than likely of had an epoxy gel coat applied to obtain the polished finish, which will be very susceptible to chipping and scratching, but is not a factor in the structure of the fork. I would definately give them a try if the price was lower, actually making myself a set atm, along with other bits and bobs. They will be, the lay up will more than likely go 0,+60,-60,0, most likely repeated several times at certain points (crown mainly) . I couldn't find that, would you be able to reply with it? May be able to explain it if you'd like . Cheers, Josh.

Would you be able to post a picture of the crack? Cheers, Josh. Edit- Also, that explanation above explains, in detail, why you CANNOT re-heat treat a frame successfully . Just out of interest, what are you going to use to submit the frame to these temperatures? The tolerences involved are around +-/5 degrees and considering the temperature is going to be in the region of 540 degrees, it's not an easy thing to do.

Posts 10 and 12, not saying it again, lol. Cheers, Josh.

ah haa, thats awesome! May not be a challenge, but still looks cool

Rushes? amber rooms side

Damn right, wana see some big stair sets being done though

You could try putting it in the fridge overnight, will cause the ally to contract, making it easier to remove the sprocket. May need the freezer, not sure on what the temerature difference has to be to obtain contraction on something the size of a crank, but wouldnt be more than 10-15 degrees . Won't harm your cranks strength wise either . Cheers, Josh. Edit- thats as long as your sprocket is steel btw .

Don't be worried about filing the dropouts, wouldn't affect the forks in any way . Josh.

Shows how much they're commiting to the 24 market really. They would only of had to shorten the rear triangle and it would of made sense then, big shame, would of been nice to see this frame made properly for 24. Do you know the reach on it btw? Josh.

Looks.....wrong. It's a stock frame with either- A ) Mounts welded on in a diferent position or B ) a vee that has enough pad adjustment to allow a 24" to be used. Josh. Edit- and from looking at the picture a bit closer, looks very much like B to me.