Dazza1414

I knew I guy years ago who was a "works team" rider and had one brand new, and another friend has not long ago got hold of one which is a bit more original condition

Possibly the 20" that muddy fox bought out briefly. Can't remember the model name though

This is probably a topic that has been discussed before but I didn't manage to find anything on a search but is there any alternative to Chris King fun bolts and if so can someone shed some light on where to get them or what to look for?

He posted a video more than 3 weeks ago riding it and last night was far from Dibs best result at sheffield unfortuneatly

New bike, it is a vertigo and goes into production in June

loved that switch move at about 1.28

This is a common beta problem I'm afraid, when it over flows try tapping the side of the card quite hard with a screwdriver. There is a mod you can do which you will find in the bike specific forum on trials central. ( just seen you have posted on there)

Nukeproof all the way, cheap but good from my experience http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-hope-mono-mini-disc-brake-pads/rp-prod42160

Love the brake booster on the Hi-Fi

Nice. Not up to the standard of your old videos thought Craig

No offence taken mate

Amusing

Seem to have solved the issue. I have "re-modelled" the bracket on the fixed tensioner with a file and locked it down tight. There is still a slight noise when pedalling backwards but it no longer seems to want to jump when under load.Just hope it holds up. Next job is trying to shave a bit of weight off. It weighs twice as much as my echo did, but then it is a street trials bike I guess. Any suggestions ?

Tried scrubbing but with no success. would a soft wire brush drill bit do the trick?

Probably been posted before but I've rawed several parts now using a caustic chemical that i get from work, I just mix it with warm/hot water and leave to soak.It's pretty brutal stuff and removes most anodising within 5 to 10 mins. My issue is that there is always anodising left in welded areas. Has anyone got anyone got any suggestions/tricks to clean up these areas. cheers,Daz

I've got an onza fixed tensioner that I may try and modify before I try the above suggestion first.Just worried it won't tighten up sufficiently.

Chain is pretty tight, it's only a very light skip but enough to put me off attacking anything.

It is a single jockey wheel that runs under the chain.I'm thinking about modding the fixed tesioner by grinding the bracket. That way I can push it as tight as possible.

Is it possible put more tension on the spring?

Quite tight when the chain is on. Wanted to run a fixed tensioner but the one I have wouldn't fit on the Hex drop outs.

Got no way of posting pics at the moment but it's pro 2 rear hub running a 15t sprocket and try-all cranks with a screw on 18t sprocket. Also running a mr.control sprug tensioner. As said in my first post it all ran fine on mu echo.

I've recently built up a new frame by transfering all my parts from my Echo to a Hex frame. Every thing on the drive chain worked fine on the Echo but now the chain is jumping under load. I've tried re-aligning the chain but it hasn't made any difference so far. Has anyone got any suggestions, it's driving me mental! Cheers

Someone down south?

Did you sell this frame to JQ1989?

Being an older rider as well I would definately recommend a Hex. Being used to riding 26" bikes from years ago (back when you couldn't get hold of 26" trials frames) I can get on with the hex a lot easier. More like a standard mountain bike geo.