AlexxRogers

They're wedged in and my grips are glued on. I have to hammer it quite hard to get it out. Trials is dangerous enough, this doesn't add any more danger for me.

Saw some other people doing it so thought I'd try. Don't have access to a lathe otherwise that'd be the obvious choice! Doesn't seem to be any flex in them though, which is quite surprising. Just a cheap way to get wider bars.

In this topic I'm going to teach you how to make bar extenders! Things you will need; Hammer File Hacksaw Tape Measure Steel Bar Marker Pen Tape, I'm using electrical tape. Step 1: Take your steel bar and push in into your existing bar until it stops, then mark the steel bar. Step 2: Wrap some tape around the steel bar where you have marked it. Just enough to make the steel bar fit snug into your existing bar, this makes sure that the steel bar will sit central. Make sure the you wrap the tape on the lower side of the mark so it will sit inside your bar. Step 3: Hammer the steel bar into your existing bar until it's firmly in place. Step 4: Mark out how much extension you require. I've extended mine by 2 inches on each side. Then proceed to cut the excess off. Step 5: Wrap the extended steel bar in tape until it matches the diameter of your existing bar. Step 6: Put your grip back on and repeat the process for the other side! Feedback is welcome. I'll update this topic in a few weeks/months to review the extenders but I imagine they will be fine! Thanks, Alex.

That's not actually how he got injured, it was in a motorcycle accident.

So here's 2 clips from today! Been off a bike for 2 years, been back on a day. Massive thanks to Martin for the bike and an even bigger thanks to the girlfriend for filming and taking me to ride. http://youtu.be/kt4Mf_SRiYk

Can you not just tighten all the spokes on one side to pull your rim over to balance out the spacing? Or will that cause you to have inadequate space on both sides?

MID. Just made sure to get the right MID bearings to fit your BB axle.

Front freewheel; Having the freewheel on the cranks and a fixed rear hub, shifts the weight more to the centre, usually lighter, more engagement. Freehub; Having a fixed sprocket on the cranks and the freewheeling mechanism in the hub itself. Usually gives you more gear ratio availability. Rear freewheel; Having a fixed sprocket and a fixed hub, but having a freewheel on the hub. Generally a bit cheaper than the freehub option but gives the same advantage.

So, been out of trials since September to start BMX. Here's how my bike stands so far, just a few little things to do now. New stem bolts, axles, axle bolts, rebuild rear wheel and I'm good! Spec is: Frame: Stereo Flash 2010 Fork: WeThePeople Helium Hollow 35 Headset: BSD/Salt Stem: Xposure Clutch Bars: WeThePeople Helium Super-light Street Grips: Fly Bikes Fino Barends: Twenty BB: WeThePeople Mid Cranks: WeThePeople Royal Sprocket: WeThePeople Supreme Pedals: Fly Bikes Ruben Graphite Crank Bolts: Macneil Chain: KMC K510HX Front Hub: Primo N4 Rear Hub: Primo Re-Mix LHD Spokes: Halo Nipples: DK Alloy Rims: Alienation Skylark Tyres: Demolition Momentime 2.35/2.20 Seat: Shadow Conspiracy Plastic Seat Post: Federal Slammed

They snap just above the BB. Seen quite a few do it.

If you're buying off Tarty just add in the hub/rim name in the comments box when you check out and they're send you the right size spokes.

Hardstyle is boss. Awesome to produce too, proper challenging.

Have a look on some of the BMX specific websites, I seem to remember they have some 2.35'' tyres!

Looks like an 04 Pitbull? EDIT: On closer note, the dropouts are different, ignore me.

New driver, use old pawls and springs, job done. EDIT: Cromo: http://www.sourcebmx.com/product/wheels-etc/bmx-axles-amp-drivers-etc/profile-cr-mo-driver/3080.shtml Titanium: http://www.sourcebmx.com/product/wheels-etc/bmx-axles-amp-drivers-etc/profile-titanuim-driver/3079.shtml

Tap, Gap, Sidehop.

Woops, sorry! 2 songs I can recommend. Not sure if that's what you're after?

Hardcore: Darren Styles Breeze Squad-E Re-con Klubfiller MOB D-Ice Check out the HTID In The Sun Cd's - Various artists and what not. Hardstyle: Zany Noisecontrollers Headhunterz Showtek Brennan Heart D-block+S-te-fan Stephanie Check out Q-base, Defqon.1, Qlimax CD's - Again, various artists and what not. Hope this helps a little. EDIT: Trance: Daniel Kandi Oceanlab Above and Beyond I don't listen to much Trance so I can't help you much there.

Decent street BMXes from decent street riders will be pretty beaten. As for buying new, the WeThePeople range are great value for money! I'd recommend them, they're pretty much the only complete bikes I see. EDIT: That Mafia BMX seems extremely good value for money, but as with most things, that's probably for a reason.

Make sure the piston stays in and no, it won't.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q...+dr+dre+review+

On the 'geo on frame' topic. How come there's commas between the wheelbase, BB rise and chainstay length, but not between chainstay length and head angle?

Erm, I'm pretty sure there's very few trails that are 100% straight line... What about DH then? Tight, twisty tracks down a hill at speed, on a 26'' bike, gotta be flicky? It's about the geo and technique of riding, not wheel size. Some 26'' bikes may feel flickier than a 20'' due to their geo. So next time you try to question my intelligence, get a little more knowledge.

You don't see any 26'' BMX's because BMX's are designed with 20'' wheels, just as you don't see any dirt jump bikes with 20'' wheels...

They're meant for racing, so I wouldn't imagine them to be overly strong. As for price they're £400 for a pair. £320 for a rear, £100 for the front separate.