SamKidney

Definately not changing to carbon bars. Love my Trialtech highrise bars too much But I hate creepy crawlers, and am going for the Stiky Lights.

See exactly what you mean. Im about 5ft 10", but not largely built. Im plenty strong enough to throw around a 9kg+ bike (My old Python was a perfect example of that ) but I can do much bigger things on a lighter bike. Im hoping to enter comps pretty soon, and love to ride natty over street. My street riding now seems to focus around the more technical lines, not outright size or distance, so I can get away with having lighter components and as a result, a lighter bike, which compliments my riding. I too could almost get sub 8 kg by changing the Tyres alone. Id say the only sketchy part on the bike now would be my Try-All Forks

Awesome! Massive riding!

Boooo But yeah it rides like a dream

Just weighed the full bike on scales (stood on its own, no input from me) and its 40g heavier than I had worked out. And I took the weight of my previous bike and subtracted the weight of the old frame and added the weight of the Ice. (Using all the old components on the Ice) Was just interested really. You keep seeing people posting their bikes with weights and such and just wanted to see what everyone thought the boundaries were.

Included every miscellaneous item. All bolts are accounted for, spokes, tubes, rim tape and grips. Every single component. Full bike is 8.25 Kg

Hi guys. Was just wondering within what weights is a bike deemed heavy or light? Sprung to mind as I found out tonight that my Onza Ice 2 weighs around 8.2kg 9.1Kg (Cheers Jamie ahaa) as a full build. Would you say thats light ok ? Cheers Sam.

Used a slightly worn stone cutting disc and put little pressure at a 45 degree angle. Light/ Medium Grind. Brake is now awesome Cheers Guys

How would this work? Yes you have upward and downward adjustment, but what about rotation? Turning the cylinder to get the pad within the rims sidwalls? If you were to run integrated clamps, you would have to have a slave/clamp combo unique of every different frame design.

Hi Guys, Moved to front Magura yesterday and would like help or advice on setup please. The grind on the rim has all but gone, So the question is, whats the best way to go about grinding it? Im fine with grinding the rear, but are there any tips as to what disc to use, light grind ect..... Im running Heatsink CNC Yellows and an Echo SL rim. Cheers, Sam

Thanks guys, any more details ? postcodes of nearby places etc ?

He changes frames every month. I change my pads every month. He likes to try new frames and see what he likes/ dislikes. I like to change pads and see whether theres one I prefer over my current pads. Its a personal thing that can help keep (in my case) interest in the sport prominent and keep me riding.

Aesthetically, the brake looks really good. However, Try more pad types. They just look like its them thats letting the brake down.

You going to tell me to stop changing my Brake pads? Because I do......allot. Maybe the man likes to change things up. If you have the money, why not? I just spent £400 on a bike I didn't need today, just because I wanted it. Shut up and let the man do what he wants.

The bike received some love and attention in the form of changing practically everything! Spec is ; - Onza Ice 2 - Try-All Forxx - Neon Bow Headset - Trialtech Race Stem - Trialtech High Rise bars - Trialtech Foams - Front Echo SL complete Wheel - Maxxis Creepy Crawler 20" - Rear Echo SL Rim, Mutiny Spokes, Echo TR Hub - Maxxis Creepy Crawler 19" - Neon Carbon BB - Trialtech Sport Cranks - Neon 7075 Bashring - Echo SL Freewheel - KMC Z510HX Chain - Front and rear 05 Hs33 Maguras, Heatsink CNC Yellow Brake pads! Rides very very well now with the higher front end, and front mag is brilliant!

Might be able to meet up later in the day should I get this Echo on sunday.

Class response!

During next week some time

Can definitely agree with this. I've just whacked on Tartys own stem and bar combo on my Ice and it feels great! Much more balanced and controllable, as-well as making front end moves easier. Changing to Trialtechs Race stem and High Rise bar next week too, so looking forward to trying them out!

His was thrown out a week ago :/ Mnes well and truely f**ked, so wont be coming allong now

The rear brake on the pro. That calliper is a pretty hefty unit, added to the extra disc and disc hub on the pro. The Pro has a cheaper, heavier wheelset also. Blade has a rear magura, much lighter than the disc unit, and has a lighter wheelset too.

If I can get my freewheel working. Yes

Calm down.......

Ha, cleaned the Disc in boiling water. Clean Put the pads in the oven, and then scrubbed them down. Bled brake. Fitted pads and disc. Done. Sounds pretty simple to me

Pads: Heatsink DIY White Compound in CNC backings Time used: Around 3 weeks. Rim used: Echo TR 19" Grind: Yes. Sharp Harsh Grind Ceraminc: Nope Brake used: 05 Magura Hs33, Echo SL Lever, Water Bleed, Tensile Clamps, Built In booster on frame ( Ice 2 ) What is your opinion of a working brake: Bite with great noise, but offering lots of hold with no modulation. How do they compare to previous pads you have used: Average. Still think that the Heatsink Yellows and TNN Beleays are the best Ive used. Review: I fitted these to my CNC backings after my yellows had worn out. Bought them for a 5er of a mate. I used a medium grind at first, but they work too well at all. After changing the disc on my grinder to a diamond cutting disc and giving the rim a harsh sharp grind, they began to show some promise. Let them bed in, and then flipped the pads around and set the brake up sqaure. Worked 10x better. Good bite, noise, with OK hold. They do seem to need to be set up bang on to give good performance, and dont show any signs of working well in the wet. Overall an average brake pad.