Carlperkins

i used to run bb5's with a 203mm rotor front and 180mm rear. they were both strong as anything! as long as you get decent pads and set the cables up right then they're good. i like cables too to be honest, don't have to fanny around with bleeding etc. dont cheap out on pads though, buy cheap, buy twice hope this helps. carl.

more street to be honest mate, i can do pedal kicks and bounce on the rear wheel pretty well, but as far as going up and down walls and stuff i need some practice. gonna focus more on trials than street from no though.

ye u helped, im gonna buy them heatsink yellow pads when these maggys are knackered. yeah man, ive blown so much money on it. atleast its light and flicky. instead of a dog tired heavy zoot. haha

ground the rear today.. i feel the difference. now just waiting for my new top cap so i can re-run hose through the forks, swap over front hubs and then job done. cheers people.

alright laurence. yeah i know how to grind the rim, ill probably grind my rear tomorrow. but i cant be arsed to change the pads over so aslong as the standard ones work its fine. i bought- 2011 24" echo trials with echo BB echo 24" forks 2 x maggy 2011 hs33's 2 echo brake boosters 2 pairs of echo brake clamps try all cranks the only part of my zoot left are the wheels, bars, and pedals lol.

. wrong topic..

i think i have the same problem with my tensile 72 click. when its on the bike and all done up properly.. if you spin the cranks backwards.. does the chain go up and down? like its slackening and then tightening again?

just bought a new frame and new 2011 maggy hs33's. i'm thinking of grinding my front and rear rims. so i was just wondering, 1. will the grinding have much of an effect on the performance of the brakes? 2. will the standard pads on the maggys be suitable for the ground rims or do i need to upgrade them too? any advice much appreciated

alright cheers people! ill have a few more goes tomorrow

ive been looking at the usual trashzen etc, and ive been trying the bouncing on the front wheel, i can do 2 maybe 3. but after the 1st one the rear wheel starts getting closer to the ground. can anyone do this trick and have any tips? im assuming its because im not over the bars enough or im trying to hop with my arms instead of legs. any help much appreciated!

no more than a tenner id say.

i thought you were never supposed to put water into any hydraulic brake??? water is compressible (like air) where as brake fluid is not. having water in the system is nearly as bad as having air in there. well this is the case for a motorbike anyway so i'm assuming its the same for a push bike.

i wouldn't worry too much about your height mate, im 6 foot and ride the 2010 onza zoot, you can alwys get a higher stem if you feel too low, plus the zoot is cheap, light and easy to learn on. hope this helps.

i have a 2010 onza zoot, i think its great but needs a few upgrades, ive put a disc brake on the front, run cables through the forks and extended the rear brake cable for 270's. also brake booster, better grips and bigger riser. they are good though and great value for money,

hey trials laurence... who are you? you tried starting 3 private conversations with me but because im not a full member i can read them.. do you ride a 20" zoo around tasburgh? Carl.

i ride the 2010 onza zoot around norwich and long stratton. its a great bike i think but i have upgraded quite alot of bits scince having it. hydraulic disc front (with hose run through headset and forks.) white inspired seat. for looks fatter front tyre thick foam grips carbon brake booster on the back extended white rear brake cable allowing for 720 degree turns. (still runing v brakes cos they are strong) upgraded stem bigger white platform pedals white echo rim tape. for looks i would say get the zoot and upgrade it, still cheaper than the inspired and you can upgrade over time. but then again i am biased

sorted mate. all lined up perfect thanks

nice once cheers man, ill give it another go Saturday afternoon and let you know how i get on.

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/front_disc_hubs/onza_sealed_disc_front/c20p10317.html http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/24_inch_wheels/onza_zoot_wheelset/c538p11426.html http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/24_inch_spokes/sapimhalo_24_inch_black_with_nipples/c95p10486.html thats the rim, hub and spokes. i did as "moneyseemonkeydo" said and loosened one side etc.. it was working pretty well and i got it pretty well centered but if i spun the wheel fast there was still a slight wobble side to side and a considerable wobble up and down, so ive loosened it all off again and will probably take it to the local bike shop for true-ing.

yeah i told the tartybikes guys what hub and rim i had etc. and i got the spokes through and they were all the same length anyway. yeah i did 3x (over over under) im currently doing the wheel and stopping to check this thread and the wheel is getting there.

ok ill do that, the thing is that the spokes on the rotor side are already nearly done up as tight as they will go, so i might not be able to do them up much more, does this mean i will need to get shorter spokes?

nah the flanges are closer together to make space for the rotor mount, the drive side flange is also much smaller than the non-drive side. if that makes any difference. nope, bought new halo 24" spokes from tartybikes.

I have bought a new onza sealed front hub to convert the front wheel on my 2010 onza zoot to a disc brake... i have laced the wheel and true'd it pretty well (for a first time attempt)... the problem is now that due to the hub having and extra bit on the side for the rotor to bolt to.. the whole wheel is pushed to the right and now the wheel is not in line with the rear wheel or the frame. any ideas?? very grateful for any help!

ahh ok cheers mate. i have just bent the hell out of them and managed to get them in. thanks! carl