Carlperkins

have you got the full speed clip too? to me it looks like you just need to give a more explosive jump and looks like you can tuck abit more too, combine that with the angles that Sam T has suggested and i think itll go further. by the way i only got them suggestions from watching myself do the same sort of thing with the same problems, and it helped a fair bit. got an extra 14" on my flat ground kick.

thats actually a pretty interesting question. maybe english are just generally backwards? i think its because people generally use their front brake more in mountain biking, road biking, motorcycling etc, so all other bikes just followed suit and now its just considered 'the norm'. have motorbikes in Holland got left handed front brakes and right handed clutches?

hahahah i can try? nah, didnt want to cut the steerer down. thought id just cover it up. lol

basically i just put a bike together and ride it, with no thought to geometry etc. firstly what is it? how do you work it out? and what does it effect? please keep it simple-ish??

well id still consider myself a learner. I mostly ride on the street like on walls etc, and not massive drops. lots of spins and stuff. ive come from downhill riding and want something a little bit more technical and challenging. i think its pretty good but as ive never really used any other tyres on a trials bike i cant really compare on the grip etc. not sure what happened to the zoot to be honest, i ride with headphones in and heard a bang when i dropped off a 3-4 foot block, i thought it was the chain as it used to bang a lot. then a day later i noticed the frame was cracked.

oh dear, well what i would do mate. is phone whoever you bought it from. (im assuming tartybikes?) i think you have to fill in a form and pop it into the package with the brake and send it back, then they will send you a replacement from magura. not sure how long it will take though. tartybikes are usually pretty good with returns etc, a bolt on my new booster snapped and they sent me a next day replacement for free. hope this helps.

LAV IT! looks the tits mate!

well, i broke my shoddy 2010 onza zoot, so i started with just a new frame.. which then lead to.. new forks new brakes new clamps and boosters new headset new cranks new chain new stem the only parts from the zoot i used were the wheels, pedals, bashring and bars haha. hope you like.

if yours is the standard 1 1/8th size (which im presuming it is) then yes it will fit. google your bike if you dont know and it should say somewhere. or get a vernea tool and measure it. hope this helps. carl.

or worse. genitals. no point risking it really is there?

nice one, yeah mine come loose after a ride or 2. because theyre new i spose. i had a go yesterday and they went on a little more. cheers for your help man! carl.

yeah looked at the thread, but one guy says its not meant to go on all the way, meant to have a 3-5mm gap. and above you said you managed to get it to the spacer. so i assume that as you got it to the spacer that they do go on all the way eventually with wearing in and a little persuasion? because id rather not see the splines to be honest lol, and if theres meant to be a gap i wont go banging it with a mallet. cheers for the speedy replies by the way! carl.

nice one mate, so basically. keep riding, keep tightening and eventually it will go on all the way yeah? cheers

well.. i bought a 2011 24" echo trial frame for tartybikes (the one that comes with the echo BB for £305.. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/24_inch_frames/echo_trial_2011_with_bb/c70p11475.html and my old cranks didn't have a big enough offset so i bought some try all cranks.. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/cranks_pair/tryall_expert_isis/c514p11216.html the drive side slots on nicely all the way and i bolt it up.. loverly... the non drive side.. i push it on and it stops, i bang with rubber mallet. it goes no further. i have about a 3mm gap between the crank and the echo spacer thing that comes on the BB. so when its all done up etc. the echo spacer can slide from side to side, and when riding i can see the end of the isis grooves. i can do the non drive side crank up nicely and ride the bike, it just looks ugly, and was wondering if it should go on a little further? anyone else had a similar problem? any advice? know where i can get a spacer or something to cover the gap?

a cheap piece of crap it looks like..

can you get some pics up. showing where its actually leaking? be interesting to see. its probably something small you may have missed. if not, you can always phone magura and get a replacement.

id go for lime green if i had my bike my way. id have lime green frame and forks then white wheels with lime green hubs, white pedals, white bars, white seat. then all the little bits black. ahh maybe one day....

haha yeah it kills after a while, as you get closer to the balance point you'll find you wont have to pull the bars to keep them off the floor, and your arms can be relaxed. carl.

what i did when i was learning is to do a small endo then pull back into upright position balanced on the rear wheel, after you can bounce on the spot quite easily on the rear and get used to the balance point etc.. you can drop the front end a little and then release the brake whilst giving a kick and jumping. its all about the timing and the dropping of the front end. a lot of the time it will just feel 'off' and awkward, this will get better as your timing gets better. dont let failure get you down hope this helps, Carl. edit: if you cant bounce on the spot you probably wont be able to pedal kick, just get used to hopping first, then try hopping forward in very small measurements without pedal kicking, then introduce the kick.

nice, that trick at 1:43 was MINT! whats the track to the vid? Carl.

mine was perfect when i got it off you guys, but then i shortened the hose and because i wasn't used to the new bleed system etc i think i buggered it up. i read the manual though and now mine are sweet as a nut.

when i was learning pedal kick.. i could kind of do it but it didn't feel very smooth at all. what i later found out is that dropping the front end makes the pedal kick, i think of it as dropping the front end then kicking to save it hitting the ground. plus a little well times jump. hope this kind of helps, carl

i had the same problem mate, mine leaved from the barb fitting at the lever and i couldnt bleed them properly. heres how i did it. turn the lever so the little ebt drill is facing vertical, pop it out and keep it safe (too much time spent looking on the floor) unscrew the fitting till 3 threads can be seen insert a syringe without plunger into the ebt drill hole so it acts as a reservoir fill a syringe and put it onto the slave cylinder push the fluid through till bubbles stop pull the lever in fully a few times hold it in for abit and push on syringe too, when bubbles stop, pull the syringe from ebt drill hole and put finger under the hole in the syringe because it leaks everywhere. put the syringe down somewhere or tip it into a bottle put ebt drill back in and do up the barb fitting tight, remove slave cylinder syringe and put screw back in. i think if you dont pull the lever all the way in and dont have a syringe in the ebt drill hole acting as a reservoir it doesn't work very well. also i had to buy a magura hose clamping block to bang the barb fitting in, makes a nice tight seal. hope this helps you out, let me know how you get on. Carl. took ages to write that out and i just realised you have HS11... i have HS33. i think the biggest problem is the barb fitting, it has to be a bang tidy fit.

took me about 2 weeks to get about 5 nice bounces, and that was with heavy nights out in between practice. after a month i could do 59, hope that gives you some idea.

yeah i had some clarks and theyre pretty low range i think. they stretch too easy i reckon. mid-top range bmx cables are good. carl.